Replies

1. 
   mcain | Oct 13, 2005 03:51pm | #1

   Waterlox is a great finish, but on a dining table I would be concerned that it would be durable enough or provide enough protection from water, heat, etc.  I typically finish cherry with a coat of Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO in this forum) and then up to 3 applications of Waterlox.  I apply the Waterlox with a 0000 steel wool pad and wipe the excess when I'm done.  I'll cut the sheen back with 0000 steel wool after the last coat and wax it - comes out beautiful.  But this is for something like a hall table - for a dining table, you may want to consider a varnish, instead of the oil/varnish blend of Waterlox...

   Everyone has an opinion and a method of their own, so please, chime in!

2. 
   BG | Oct 13, 2005 04:51pm | #2

   JDB,
   The first pieces I did was with Waterlox and it worked great. I believe it's more than adequate for a dining table, however, i put three coats all over and six coats on the show sides. You'll notice that as you approach the sixth coat its getting nicer and nicer. For your size project most of a full can will be used..left overs can spoil rapidly.
   Now I use a danish oil for three applications and then three or more wipe-on satin poly from Minwax...also very simple to apply.
   Several discussions recently on here about these topics, you might want to search a bit..Howard Acheson http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=25833.7

   
   

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   Edited 10/13/2005 9:56 am ET by BG

1. 
   jerrymayfield | Oct 13, 2005 08:49pm | #3

   Waterlox original is certainly fine for a dining room table. It is a phenolic resin tung oil varnish. It is absolutely beautiful on cherry. Apply it and enjoy.regards
   jerry

3. 
   cherryjohn | Oct 14, 2005 03:30pm | #4

   waterlox .........once you use it you wont use anything else for a project like this.  I built a trestle table for my dining room and thats what I used.  The stuff wears like iron too.  Wipe it on with an old towel let it dry a day and fine sand then wipe it off.  Do 3 coats at least for the top sanding inbetween with 220 grit.  on the last coats after it is dry I use the worn 220 grit to sand it down then wax it with Butchers wax.  While its not a table I used Waterlox on the blanket chest I just finished for my sons wedding.  All cherry with 3 coats on the sides and 5 on the top

   Wicked Decent Woodworks

   (oldest woodworking shop in NH)

   Rochester NH

   " If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"

   
1. 
   brink | Oct 14, 2005 05:25pm | #5

   Thanks for all the expert advice. Going to Seattle this weekend to vist my daughter and will stop at Woodcraft for some waterlox for experimentation.

4. 
   DickL | Oct 14, 2005 06:05pm | #6

   I would suggest one coat of BLO to pop the grain and then three or more coats of Waterlox Original. I wipe it on with a cloth (actually one of those blue shop towel things) and rub it between coats with Liberon 0000 steel wool. If you are really concerned about the table top, you could use Waterlox Marine for the last couple of coats. I found that the Marine finish needed to be thinned with some mineral spirits to wipe on properly.

1. 
   jerrymayfield | Oct 14, 2005 06:16pm | #7

   You won't need any other oil. the phenolic resin will add amber color to pop the grain,as will the tung oil.regards
   jerry