I am making a walnut chest. The lid will be triple raised panel. the enter panel is heavily figured feather crotch, that has a sizable bark inclusion. the inclusion is attractive and adds visual interest — for now. However, I fear that over time it will chip and flake, and also serve as a dirt magnet.
The question is, how can I stabilize and fill the inclusion without losing the look?
This project is just in the planning phase. It won’t be ready for for the finish for some time. When it comes to that, the overall finish will probably be shellac and wax.
Joe
Replies
Would filling the area with clear resin/epoxy work?
Get some bark and chop it up into small pieces (don't pulverize) and mix with epoxy. The dark color of the bark looks more natural...
Chrius
can you post a picture?
I did a coffee table from a slab of Koa that had bark inclusions, and I had the same fear.
I used numerous coats of a Minwax product (I think it might have been "Wood Restorer") that was designed to solidify rotted, soft, or punky spots. It soaked in amazingly quickly, and the 'numerous' coats were done over just two days.
('Numerous' -- I'd guess it was ten coats -- maybe more. I was determined to use the stuff until no more would soak in. When it started to create a glossy surface, I stopped, even though that coat also seemed to soak in nicely.)
That was eight years ago, and not a single flake of bark has loosened or fallen.
Note that other companies have similar products, I'm not in cahoots with Minwax or any other...........
Very interesting idea. I'll look into it. I suppose liquid epoxy consolidant would also work.Joe
Joe,
I was recommended this by Mr Forrester, an ancient French Polisher who worked for Waring & Gillow of Lancaster for 40-summick years:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pricing=INC&pf_id=21645&name=Brummer&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0&cid=PVQDGCYSPPAH9WZ86918DY02FRCIKTNH
I've just used the dark oak variety to fill many shakes and barky-holes in the hayrake table I'm making. It works very well - goes in as built-up layers and sticks to everything. Dries to a grey solid that can be sanded or scraped flat. When the oil or other finish goes on, the grey magically turns to the colour proclaimed on the tin (dark oak in my case).
It can also be stained or dyed. I used a fine paint brush to variegate some of the larger patches using a couple of dark brown dyes a shade or three different from that of the Brummer. This gives a less "filled" look.
Lataxe
Thanks for the tip. I will certainly look into this.Joe
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