Replies

1. 
   roc | Nov 25, 2011 11:55pm | #1

   Heck yah !

   The aluminum zirconia cuts longer because it stays sharp longer. It stays sharp by fracturing into more sharp edges. It works well on steel and hard materials.  Use this stuff first and foremost to REMOVE material as fast as is possible.

   The emery is more for polishing, as opposed to removing material.  I know that sounds contradictory.  The emery particles are rounder and they seem to stop cutting soon after starting to work because they don't fracture into more sharp particles as readily so they tend to . . .

   as the jewelers call it . . .

   " COLOR " the metal.  That means smooth it by some what burnishing the metal.  It pushes the metal here and there to smooth over scratches etc.

   To try to remove significant thickness by using emery is to work harder than necessary.

   I can provide references but that's it in a nut shell.

1. 
   Metod | Nov 26, 2011 09:13am | #2

   Thanks, roc

   Many thanks for your insights. Up to your post, I did not know about the 'technical' differences between emery and al. zirconia. 

   It is nice to have your fountain of knowledge, understanding and helpfulness as close as the keyboard.

   Best wishes,

   Metod

2. 
   roc | Nov 27, 2011 01:26pm | #3

   Some Would Say

   I am a fountain but they used another word instead of knowledge 

   :   )

   Funny thing; when I first came to FWW and Knots I thought I knew some stuff about metal working. . . 

   well I have become a better, smarter,  metal worker since.  I picked up some of  the knowledge about the abrasives around here some where.

   thanks,

   PS: let us all know how it goes.  

1. 
   Metod | Dec 15, 2011 12:23pm | #4

   Yes to Zirconia

   Roc,

   I finally got around and gave a try to aluminum zirconia. I like it 'gooder' than aluminum oxide.

   Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

   Best wishes,

   Metod

3. 
   Maine_tyler | Feb 07, 2012 10:55pm | #5

   Silicon Carbide?

   O perfect timing for my own curiosities.

   I'm also wondering what to use to do the roughing out on really dull blades/lapping planes etc. I started research on the 3m silicon carbide micron sheets (imperial microfinishing film) because that is what scary sharp uses, and I figured the larger microns (40 or higher) might provide a durable shaping system. Alternatively there are sticky backed sandpapers that come in rolls and what not; cheaper and maybe more economical in the long run? I've had issues with these not cutting after very little use however, I don't know if its just brand issue.

   Now I here mention of alunimum zirconoa - is this the best route? 

   What about something like silicon carbide stones instead of paper (for blades)- i think norton makes some...

   -T

1. 
   Metod | Feb 08, 2012 07:31am | #6

   Silicon Carbide

   Bob,

   I do not know whether aluminum zirconis is 'the best'. I started to wonder what machinists use for lapping. There are lapping compounds (loose stuff ot in paste form) that are silicon carbite based. There are expensive lapping (cast iron?) plates, but for woodworking maybe some Corian stuff would be fine as a substrate.

   Derek Cohen (who posts here) made lapping plates from old plane soles (I think it is reat idea).

   Maybe somebody with experience (I have none with such material) will chime in.

   Best wishes,

   Metod