Santa dropped off a Dust collector – a Woodstar DC12 (after my wife expressed hee concerns about my health.)
I have managed to shoehorn it into my tiny workshop but switching it on and off is a PITA as I have to squeeze between the saw and the bench to reach the switch.
The switch is a magnetic one – overdoing safety in this case, I think. I have my supplier’s blessing to remove the switch and wire it to an extension cord without invalidating the guarantee but wondered if ther is a better “standard” way. I am assuming that a remote control won’t work unless I replace the switch.
Can anybody help?
Edited 12/13/2009 2:17 pm ET by davcefai
Replies
Shop Fox makes remote switches for both 110v & 220v DC systems. They run ~$50 and have two remote controls. For mine, the remote is plugged into a 220v receptacle and the DC power cord is plugged into the remote with the DC motor switch turned "ON". I start/stop the DC from either remote.
I keep the remotes at opposite ends of the shop (one at the TS and the other at the SCMS) and am never more than a couple of steps from one of them.
Mine has a radio controlled switch. Looks like a car fob. I hook it on my belt so it's always with me.
Denny
The use of magnetic switches seems to be optional in our consumer level machinery. The main reason for them - from what I can determine - is a safety feature that prevents the machine from restarting after being unplugged in the ON position, or power failure etc.
I did find a site where the author discussed the fact that a physical bump of sufficient force could engage the contacts.
http://www.waterfront-woods.com/Articles/magneticstarters.htm
Not a big deal for a DC, but serious for a table saw.
There are a number of remote control devices on the market. You would have to find one that would work in your location. The magnetic switch will not work with a remote switch. You should have an off on switch at the DC just in case, but I don't think it needs to be magnetic just correctly rated for the application.
Consult a local expert as you do not want any regulatory or insurance complications.
The other option would be to locate a number of on/off switches around the shop that would control one receptacle. A little more work to setup and you have to be sure that the switches are again rated for the application.
Congratulations on improving your workspace. Maybe the stretching is healthy as well :-)
Don
Ok, thanks for the input. The message seems to be that I need to deactivate/replace the magnetic switch before considering anything else.After that it will be a case of either a remote controlled switch or a remote switch for the receptacle the DC is plugged into. I can't use anything from the US as our supply here is 220V single phase or 415V three phase (which I don't have anyway).
I don't see why you couldn't use a US made (probably made in China) 220 volt remote. It would be for 60 cps instead of 50 but I doubt that would make a substantial difference.
Edited 12/14/2009 10:07 pm ET by Tinkerer3
Looks like at least 2 posts were lost in the changeover. The 60Hz may be problematic and somebody else wrote saying that he once had a dual voltage, 50/60Hz Braun shaver which ran slowly.
I made the comment about being careful about the frequency. My one and only experience was using a dual voltage international Braun razor in Italy. It ran slowly and very warm,, nearly hot. That was a simple motor, I have no idea what a switching circuit would do if not right.
But the chianti was great, so I stopped shaving :-)
Don
I have the big Shop Fox Cyclone with the 5 H.P. motor. And of course it runs on 220 Volt power. I can control it from the magnetic on/off switch mounted on the dust collector, or by remote control. I have a fob, that looks like the key fob for my truck.
I wear a tool vest rather than a apron that has a steel ring that the fob hangs from. It's beside my breast pocket where I keep my pencils and 6" rule. So it's handy and always with me. This way I dont have to worry about chasing it all over the shop. I know if I didn't have it attacned to that steel ring, I would be setting it down some where and never know where it is.
I couldn't imagine being without the remote, having to walk back and forth across rhe shop every time I need the DC. It's way too loud to run all the time, and the shops to big (4200sqft) to keep going to the switch. Down the road I plan to put the DC and compressor in a new room outside to comtain the noise.
Taigert
Taigert,
Don't the magnetic
Taigert,
Don't the magnetic switches need to stay energized in order to turn on or is your remote switch between the switch and the motor?
I think the remote switch is preferable to the current sensing devices for induction motors. If you cyclone had to start every time you turned your saw on the cyclone motor would not be happy.
Don
Don,
Most of the wiring was done at the factory, and set up to be used with the remote. When I moved into my current location which is now a permenant location. We purchased the building!! It is a old theater built around the turn of the century in the early 1900's. It is a fair amount bigger than the place I was renting which was about 2000 sqft. At the time I had a 3 hp Powermatic with two bag filters. It it did a poor job of being a dust collector. So when we moved in here I upgraded to the 5 hp Cyclone due to the longer pipe runs. The shop is now 4200 sqft, over twice the size. One of the things I did right away was hire a really good Electrician and upgraded the electrical. So I just handed the Electrician all the manuals, for all of my equipment. The DC wiring that needed to be completed in the field was all taken care of by the Electricians. I do know they did spend some time reading the manual a couple of times, but they did get it right. It fired up right away when I pused the button. So I am not totaly sure of how it is wired.
As far as turning it on and off, according to the factory engineers I spoke with before buying it. They state it shouldn't cause any problems. You can also run it on a timer so when you turn it on it will run for how ever many minutes you have selected or you can have run without the timer, and it will run till you manually shut it at the DC or with the fob.
With a noise reading of 89 Db if you just leave it running it is loud and you can forget about the radio. I had to get a set of ear muffs with the radio built in to get by that problem. Gotta have my tunes!
The thing I like the most about the mew DC is having the dual cartridge filters they claim a capture of .5 microns. They are huge, but it really leaves the shop a lot cleaner from what my powermatic did. The Powermatic didn't seem to capture any of the fine dust. It just made sure it was airborne. This monster has no problem at all with creating suction. I hope that answers your question Don.
Taigert
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