Everytime I buy a drill bit I am confused over the diiferent materials that drill bits are manufactured from…..Can anyone explain to me whats what. I see cobalt, Titanium, Black Oxide, HSS (High Speed Steel) Whats the best. Which should I use for metal, wood plastic????? Ugggh I’m so confused. Also when do I want a 115 degree, 135 degree, I’ve seen 108 degree, pilot point. Are there any drill bit experts out there????
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Replies
HSS for wood
Brad points are my first choice for most wood boring applications. Split points (115, 135, 108 degree, etc) are generally for other materials, especially metal, as are the special coatings (cobalt, titanium, black oxide). Most of my bits are HSS, but if you will be getting a lot of use (think production), you may consider a carbide tipped bit.
Sir Chris...
I literally have hundreds of all sorts of drill bits. Almost all are from my metal working and service work days. All HSS standard old drill. Non coated.
I have used coated drills, most at much more cost, and for my use (non production) it is a waste of money. Metal working or woodworking. As a metal worker I had to learn how to sharpen drills. Never a fun task for me. These days I just buy a new drill if I ruin it.
In my opinion, HSS does almost any work you may have if you are not making rockets and working with titanium. I have never worked with it... But I have worked with some stainless steel that kill a new drill in about 3 seconds without proper lubrication and feed rate.
For woodworking, I almost always use brad-point bits for small stuff and my old brace and bits for larger holes. I love my brace and auger bits. SOMEday, if I get rich, and live long enough, I would like to get a set of 'spoon' bits for my old (very old) Craftsman brace. Yes, a Sears brace. It has worked for years without any problems. I would use it for twist drills if somebody had a quick change 'chuck' to replace the Auger type with a round face chuck..
As a old metal worker, I can ruin a drill in hardwoods as fast as I could ever do in common steel. At least with my old metal working tools we had a way to account for 'FEED RATE' and 'bit rotation speed'. Hell, I even had a book for each machine with tables on what gear changes were needed for many metals.. YES.... no electron driven speed controls then! I could use a 'set' of several different drills on my Brown and Sharps (Mostly screw making machines) for, At least, all day long, cutting steel and most stainless steel rods. This was thousands or hundreds of metal parts depending on the size.
The Brad-Points I now use are a set of 1/16 increments that i found at a good sale at my local Rockler store. 1/8 inch up to something larger.. I forget how large at the moment.
I use very little softwood with my work. My usual hardwoods are tough on drills and even some softwoods with alot of pitch hand be HARDER on a drill bit.
In my opinion.. Forget about coated drill bits.. Get a nice woodworking drill press with electronic speed control. The drill bits should last almost as long as you do!
By the way, my drill press is a hunk of junk. I gave all my good machines to my X son-in-law... Big mistake.
EDIT: I wonder what a set of 1/32 to 1 inch at 1/16 inch increments would cost if they were solid carbide brad-points?
Tiny bits
Will,
Ever see a 1/64" drill bit? Yes, they make them. I don't know what use they could possibly have, but people do buy them - in multiples, no doubt because they break easily!
I discovered some of those teeny-tiny drill bits when I went on a scroll-saw binge a few years ago. Yes, the do break oh-so-easily!
Think small
1/64 is still pretty big. The MSC Catalog has bits down to .0019" diameter, you could fit seven of them across that fat 1/64".
Plastics are special...
Plastic such as Lexan, acrylic, Lucite need specialized bit. Discouraging to take an expensive sheet and crack it!
Drill bit material, coating and tip angle are chosen depending on what you are drilling. I usually go to McMaster-Carr drill bit catalog pages and find out what bit is needed for what I am drilling. They have a nice explanation of what drill bit is best. Below is a link to a short drill bit reference catalog page (p 2414).
http://www.mcmaster.com/#about-drill-bits/=6tssrb
http://www.mcmaster.com
I use brad points for wood, Lee Valley makes a good set. For metal I have a set from Milwaukee that works very well. Both sets are not cheap but work very well. The alternative solution is to get multiples of cheaper bits (Woodcraft drill bit deals, etc.) and replace often.
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