Hi all,
I’ve been a long time lurker, and finally have a problem that I need some help with. SWMBO has requested a project in Alder (clear finish) with a distressed look. I’ve got the joinery complete, but am at a loss on distressing the wood. Specifically she asked for an irregular surface, like you see in those faux hand-planed floors.
I pulled out my #6 and put a pretty good radius on an old blade, then went for it on some scrap alder. Not much effect in getting deep grooves. So, I pulled out my scrub plane and went with the grain, tearout galore (no surprise there). Are there any ideas on how I can get a significant scalloped/rough hand planed look without significant tearout? I’m afraid the tearout will absorb all the glaze and give the piece a blotchy effect if I leave it, or if I try to sand it out that I’ll destroy the scalloped effect I’m trying to get.
What about other distressing techniques (I’ve never really done this before)? I think I’ll be okay on the finish using some glazes and dark colored wax, but making my nice square lumber look hammered is puzzling me.
Thanks in advance….
—
don
Replies
I would take a blunt object--the heel of a kitchen knife and make some marks if you are trying to imitate floor faux finishes. You definitely don't want "tear out".
Use the blunt object and draw it along the grain and maybe "thump" a couple of places. PLEASE do it on a scrap piece first!!
The hand planed look doesn't have deep grooves, just shallow scallops. They would be visual on really crude pieces, only tactile on higher style pieces, fairly noticable on earlier pieces (as Queen Anne) and less on later pieces (Chippendale) and even less on Federal. Even the country carpenter wouldn't leave scrub plane divots on exterior surfaces, unless this was an item which would have been used in the barn, not the house.
But, hand planing isn't distressing. And, it's easy to overdo distressing. Look at where wear would naturally occur. Where feet might rest, you can use a rasp and fairly significantly show that wear. But remember that the feet don't go all the way into corners. On table surfaces the traditional devices to make the dings from wear are bundles of keys, or chains. These can be done after the first top coat has been applied, since wear wouldn't be on bare wood, but occur only after it was finished. Basically, imagine how the piece would have been used over the years and show the wear than might have occurred in that use. Make up stories.
Edited 10/7/2009 11:17 pm ET by SteveSchoene
First let me welcome you from the shadows. Wow ! Four posts since 2003. Such restraint.
Second don't take me tooo seriously here but . . .
I would say attempt to talk her out of it. Ya right. OK . . . failing that here is a thread talking about distressing starting with my take on it but there is some info that may help you as well.
: )
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=44905.14
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Thanks for the ideas. I think I've got a good compromise....
I took my wife down to the shop and showed her the tearout (explaining what it was) from the scrub plane, and the surface left by the 606 with a radiused blade. We then added some rub marks and dings as suggested here (it doesn't take much to distress alder). Finally, I hit it with some shellac and glaze.
I gave her my best argument about how I wanted to make an authentic piece, and even if she wanted it a little beat up to simulate years of use that I'd still prefer to make it in an authentic way. I could tell I was getting close (but not quite there), so I brought out the big gun to close the deal. I told her that I obviously couldn't get the effect she wanted with the tools I had in my shop, but if she really wanted it that I would start researching what tools I'd need to buy to make her happy. :)
Thanks again for the ideas!
--
don
Edited 10/8/2009 11:57 am ET by dwp66
You could always take a piece of velum paper, thin enough to allow ink bleed-through, and then with watered-down India ink, sign "Abra . . . Linc . . ." at an appropriate angle. ;-)Distressing is a real art, but can also be therapeutic, I suppose. ("Take THAT, you blinkity-blank!")
It can be done and you don't need fancy tools. Tear-out is not the most desirable but it too is workable. I have utilized rough sawn, chatter marked, dog chewed, scratched, scraped, and many other types of markings/textures incorporated into some very attractive and charming finishes. The key is in learning how to refine and finish the rough look that you have either found or created or both.
You have to know where and when to knock the roughness back and you will likely use clear finishes with (sometimes) pigments added rather than staining to get your coloring. It is not a thing that I can teach in a simple post. You could practice though and when you get a nice look you'll know how to repeat it. Don't start out cold on an important piece of work... this is the sort of endeavor that you will build the skills for over numerous stages and several years or more. Work only on scraps until you have achieved some successes and gained reasonable confidence. When you get an interesting look refine it and use it somewhere... eventually you will be able to do what your wife is asking for and much more.One special hint is that I have had a custom made plane created for this particular effect which has a curved sole and blade (across the short way).
> start researching what tools I'd need to buy to make her happyAtaboy. That's workin' it ! As long as everyone is happy that's the main thing.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Edited 10/8/2009 11:12 pm by roc
Consider using a hand scraper. Either a #80 or card scraper. Should give you just enough scallop without tear-out.
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