I’ve got a Delta 36-979 1.5 Hp Table Saw and am curious about what to do for a dado insert. Would there be any reason not to get the zero clearance insert and just fit it for my dado(which I haven’t bought yet)? Should I just get the recommended insert from delta and pay twice what the zero clearance insert costs?
Also, Any recommendations for a good saw blade for cutting plywood? All I have is the general purpose blade that came with my saw and it is a repeat offender of tear out. I only ask now because I’m building some cabinets that I’d like to avoid this problem on. I’m a hobbyist, so I’d rather not spend more $$$ on a blade than I have in the cabinets themselves. How are the Freud’s?
Edited 3/9/2008 3:11 pm ET by marti038
Edited 3/9/2008 3:12 pm ET by marti038
Replies
The only down side to a zero clearance insert with a dado blade, is that the first time you change the blades in the dada stack, it is no longer a zero clearance insert. That said, I use them with my dado blade, and just write what the stack set up, including shims, was when I cut into it, on the bottom of the insert. Typically you only need to make a couple if all you are doing is case work with plywood, one for each size of plywood you cut dadoes for, usually 1/2- or 5/8-, and 3/4-.
I have a few blades I use for cutting plywood. Generally, the least chip out is with fine toothed blades. I have a Frued designed for double surface melamine that does a good job.
Marti,
Make your own zero-clearance inserts. I find that combination blades cut plywood the cleanest.
Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I have a ZC insert that has interchangable wooden throats. I keep one insert for my general rip blade, and I made one for each 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" dadoes. If I am making a dado that is some other dimension, I use the next size up for the insert. Works well.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Marti,
I purchased a Freud 40 tooth Premier Fusion blade about a year ago to use as an "all purpose" blade. If you are looking for one good blade to use most of the time, you might consider the Freud.
Best!
-Nazard
Woodcraft sells TS insert blanks for various saws, although not cheap.
I bought several for different dado cuts and created one for 3/4" ply, 3/8" rabbets etc..
The only issue is that 3/4" plywood actually is different widths depending on where you buy it.
ASK
Ditto to Chris. There's no reason to spend money on Z-C inserts when you can make them. The key is to make several blanks once you get started, then cut the slot as you need a particular size.
I love my old Freud Premier series and the new Freud Fusion blade for use on plywoods.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Make your own.
If your insert is at least 1/4" thick, then flip it over and use double sided tape to attach it to a MDF blank that has been rough cut on a band saw or jig saw to the approximate outline. then use a flush cut bearing bit to rout the exact outline. The thickness of the MDF can be adjusted as required to be flush with the saw table top by shimming under it on the "ears" supporting the insert.
Make many and use them exclusively. Just be safe when raising the TS blade into the insert. Put your fence over the edge of the insert out of the way of the blade and SLOWLY crank the blade up to the height of the needed cut.
If in doubt, ask for more information or get assistance.
Just an observation and comment on those making their own inserts. Making zero clearance inserts for my regular 10" blade freaked me out too much, but I think it be different with an 6 or 8 inch dado. Unlike my neighbors Unisaw, my contractors saw blade won't lower enough to let me seat the insert into the throat of the saw. I had to have the saw running and lower it down, I had a pin in the back of the insert to hold it down to the back of the throat plate, but it was too nerve racking for me. When I needed a new plate, I just bought one that was routed out on the bottom, I suppose I could do that too, but they aren't that expensive. BTW: I own the metal Delta dado insert, its nice and sturdy. Of course I seem to prefer the router for my dados and rabbets. I know its slower, but the cuts are so clean and time really isn't money for me when it comes to wood working.
Routerman, if you have a 6" or 8" dado, you can put that in the saw to start the groove in the underside of your insert, then swap it out for the 10" and finish it off. Glad to hear the Unisaw doesn't have that problem, it'll make the process easier!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
There is an old rule I was taught very early: If you feel uncomfortable doing an operation -- DON'T DO IT!
I have violated this rule a couple of times and once had a large sheet of 1/1 inch plywood bind and be thrown spinning across the room. The other time I had a close call when a spindle I was turning split and was thrown up off the ceiling in onto my head. Luckily, it hit my head for which I am known to be hardheaded so no injury. :-)
But I had on a full face shield as always.
Stay safe.
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
I totally agree! I am much more careful now. I've turned on a tool and have gotten ready to cut and have stopped to rethink... "is this really the way I should do this?" I think the height of my stupidity was when I had the Biesymeyer splitter sitting uninstalled in my drawer and was ripping a moderately long board. To keep it from binding, I was placing shims in the wood behind the blade. One of the shims fell forward onto the blade and bounced off the blade! Luckily, it just barely touched the blade and nothing bad happened. But it was at that point that I decided that was really dumb!
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