I’ve got a Craftsman belt drive table saw and my stacked dado set doesn’t fit correctly on the arbor. The arbor spindle is too short to correctly hold more than the 2 cutters. If you add a chipper, part of the set falls into the section of the arbor that is narrower resulting in a height difference that produces a bad cut.
Any ideas or solutions?
Replies
Skip,
Is this the saw with the sliding table? If not what model saw is it?
John W.
It's a 10 year old belt drive contractors saw with the cast expansion wings (open style). The fence is similar to the new Rigid ones I see at Home Depot. Hope that helps to narrow down the field. The problem is the threads are narrower than the actual arbor shaft and the shaft area is less than 1/2 inch in length - so any stacked set with 2 blades and a chipper produces a very irregular cut.
Also, thanks for the response.
Ahhh.
So the actual working arbor length is only half an inch, and outside of the smooth working arbor is a threaded portion to which a nut, and presumably a very large washer is placed to hold the blades tight to the inner arbor flange.
I would say that this is Sears telling you not to use more than a half inch stacked Dado. Again, I would talk to Sears. Like one poster said, maybe you are required to use their wobble Dado set, which would fit. I don't like the wobble Dado, but they do work.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Yeah, that was me. and I just remembered they supply a bushing with that wobble that reduces the dado head to 5/8 from sumpthin bigger..and covers the treads a little. Cant use the washer either I think, just the nut.
Skip,
It would seem, as several other posters have already stated, that the saw really isn't designed for taking a stacked dado set. The work arounds posted will help, but the saw is basically limited in what it can do if the arbor is short.
John W.
You could add an insert to the chipper,basically a metal O-ring, to bring it up to the same height as the others. A local hardware store carries these.
With respect to Jack, I certainly would not want to add an O Ring. Having that blade spin around at a couple thousand rpm's would not give me comfort.
This is a constant issue with Sears tools, and short arbors. If you can remove the entire trunion, perhaps you can remove the arbor or get a longer one machined for you. Me, I'd sell the saw and get a cheap Delta or Jet.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
If what you are referring to is the groove in the arbor between the threaded portion and the flat portion, here is something that works for most.
Get some metal epoxy repair material at the hardware store. Thoroughly clean the arbor with acetone or lacquer thinner. Mix up the epoxy metal and apply it to the grooved area. Let it fully cure and use a file to smooth it down to the diameter of the flatted portion of the arbor. Finish it off with some sand paper.
This fixes the problem to about 90%. The other 10% is that the threaded portion of the arbor is a slightly smaller diameter than the flat portion. This allows chippers that sit on the threads to cut in non-concentric paths which can make for slight grooves in the bottom of dados. Unfortunately, there is nothing that can be done for this except replacing the arbor.
Skip,Have a machinist friend turn you a brass or steel spacer/washer to the correct od,id and thickness to fit get a few in case you misplace one. Forget about rubber o-rings. Be sure to use a dado insert plate and MOST IMPORTANTLY, Stand to the side when starting it up. Stein.
Stein,
You seem like an experienced woodworker.But why are you and others urging such caution on this issue? If the dado cutters are mounted and held securely by the blade stiffener/washer and nut,what's the real danger? There's nowhere for the cutters to move,when using a metal o-ring.
I would not feel comfortable with that set up either. I think the chipper could go up and down and while the blade will certainly stay on the arbor, one could tear up the threads and if it moves up or down, kick back could occur. Sorry, but there is no friggin way I would even try this. I'd contact Sears and address my problems with them. Many of the Sears Table Saws and Radial Arm Saws can only accomodate a half inch Dado Blade. This is why I sold my Sears RAS and TS about 15 years ago. So if Sears did not have a factory approved method for this arbor issue, I'd get a cheap Delta or Jet Contractors type saw.
Kelsey
I think Sears expects you to use thier Dial a dado adjustable wobbler..seems I remember it coming with the saws many moons ago..
Jack, I only urged caution as it is a good rule when ever you start up a tool in line with your eyes.. Forgot to snug up the nut? Forgot to lower blade? Forgot to change insert? Blades out of balance? Stack not positioned correctly? Good safety work habit? BINGO! Stein. Applys to blades and moulding head cutters too.
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