Replies

1. 
   dgreen | Apr 16, 2009 09:23am | #1

   My 12" RAS, 12" CMS and 10" SCMS are set up on a common bench with the tables and fences aligned with each other.

   The vast majority of my final cutting to length is done there.

    

    

   ................................................

   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.
   ~ Denis Diderot

2. 
   integrity_woodworks | Apr 16, 2009 10:47am | #2

   Sliding table on my table saw,I have five  or so miter saws but none are in my shop. perfect, every time ish .ha ha ha

   some with hand saws if they are not multiples of twenty or more.

   Dan

3. 
   MikeHennessy | Apr 16, 2009 02:55pm | #3

   Like others, I rely on the RAS to cut almost everything to length. Wouldn't dream of using the TS for anything over a foot or two in length. But I don't have (or need, with a RAS nearby) a good miter gauge, so YMMV.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

4. 
   ASK | Apr 16, 2009 04:49pm | #4

   I don't really like my miter saw. So I only do rough cutting with it.

   Use the table saw for most other cuts. Wish it could do the dishes also.

   ASK

5. 
   mikeddd | Apr 16, 2009 05:22pm | #5

    I have a 12" SCMS which I use most of the time, but if I want a perfect cut like an end that your going to cut dovetails in I turn to my cross cut sled on the table saw, I think the sled stays true better than a miter gauge (mind you I don't have a real good miter gauge never found I needed one). Its easy to build a deadly accurate sled.

6. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Apr 16, 2009 05:53pm | #6

   Everything coming into the shop to be rough cut for jointing and planing on the SCMS with sliding extensions up to 16'. Anything for final cut under 36" on the TS with Incra V 27 miter guage and my home built fence with stop (very accurate BTW).. anything over 36" final cut with SCMS using a "story stick" with an L added on end.

   I use the L to butt one square end and hold the story stock on top of stock to mesh with the SCMS blade tooth. Very accurate but.. not as easy to use as the stop on my Incra with my home-made fence as it's much quicker to set up.

   Sarge..

7. 
   philip_r | Apr 16, 2009 07:00pm | #7

   I use both.  I have a DeWalt 12" SCMS and an Excalibur sliding table attached to my TS. 

   Both have adjustable stops, which is key.  My first rip is typically done on my SCMS - since it sits on top of my lumber rack.

8. 
   RalphBarker | Apr 16, 2009 08:18pm | #8

   It depends, I think, on how finely one defines "final length". For me, rough cuts and close-to-final cuts are done either on the TS or RAS, depending on material size. In many cases, however, absolute final length is "cut" on a shooting board with a plane.

1. 
   JiminFla | May 04, 2009 04:36pm | #23

   Ralph,I find that my RAS has the tendency to get out of alignment very easily so I don't use it for precision cross cuts. How do you keep yours at exactly 90 degrees?Jim

1. 
   RalphBarker | May 04, 2009 05:35pm | #24

   Keep a heavy sledge hammer nearby and scare it into obedience? ;-)One thing to look at is whether the variation is coming from the saw or from the fence setup. Although my old Delta Ten-Plus is pretty stable, I had a lot of trouble with a smaller Craftsman saw. The table surface and fence on the Craftsman was always wiggling around, resulting in cuts of the un-square kind unless frequently adjusted. I gave it away and kept the big Delta.

1. 
   JiminFla | May 04, 2009 05:50pm | #25

   I have a Ridgid RAS and the fence is pretty solid. There is play in the radial arm which causes it to move slightly from side to side.Jim

1. 
   RalphBarker | May 04, 2009 06:16pm | #26

   Sounds like a not-so-Ridgid saw. ;-)I'm not familiar with that particular model, but side-to-side flex should be difficult with most designs. I assume you've checked bolt tightness at the back of the carriage assembly and at the base?

2. 
   JiminFla | May 04, 2009 06:33pm | #27

   I did, but I'll double check it. It doesn't have a lot of movement, but a fraction of a degree is enough to throw off a precision cut. Thanks for your help.Jim

9. 
   bones | Apr 16, 2009 10:52pm | #9

   My answer would be depends.  For long lengths I'd use my SCMS (kapex).  For pieces that are less that 10" wide and relatively short 36" I use the TS with my Incra 1000se.  For other items I have CS with straitedge and Forrest WWII.  That about covers it and I get good results with all of them.  I think there are times with each would be the best solution. 

   Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
   If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
   And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
   
1. 
   jointerman | Apr 17, 2009 04:21am | #10

   Hey everyone!Well, this certainly more responses and insight that I thought I'd see. Thanks! It sounds like the TS with my Osborne miter gauge is the way to go for what I need. But basically, it sounds that if I had a good solid stop system on my SCMS that'd be the way to go since I don't have an RAS. The final lengths are short at only 15-inches. However, my Rousseau stand with stop gets here any day now and if somehow it gets itself assembled, I'll probably go with that. As a follow up question: Would you use a combination blade on the table saw, i.e. WWII or an 80 tooth plywood veneer blade.

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Apr 17, 2009 06:03pm | #11

   I use a 40 T Infinity General or my new 40 T Oshlun ($25 from Holbren and a great blade for $25) if the end grain won't show. Both leave a smooth end grain. But... for one showing I need glass smooth.. I drop the Infinity Super General on which has 30* degree ATB grind with triple grind sides (basically the same as the Freud Fusion).

   I haven't had that one long and used to just cut the stock 1/16" longer and take a of 1/32" with an over-head bearing pattern bit. Or.. simply shoot it on a shooting board with a block plane.

   Sarge..

10. 
    BrianDerr | Apr 18, 2009 08:26am | #12

    Final square cuts on TS shopmade sled. Final mitered cuts on miter saw. In my shop the TS sled beats the miter saw easily if the cuts are square and pieces are not over say four feet. As for mitered final cuts, I think if I had a very high end 'miter guage' the TS would be great, but those 6" things just aren't better than a miter saw. With enough jigs (either shopmade or purchased) the TS is the way to go unless the boards are just too damn long and heavy. Just what I think.

    Brian

11. 
    flairwoodworks | Apr 18, 2009 09:38am | #13

    I'm with you - my 12" Makita compound miter saw.

    Chris @ and now www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
    www.flairwoodworks.com)

     - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

12. 
    Knotscott | Apr 18, 2009 09:06pm | #14

    TS for me, unless the pieces are > 6'.  My TS setup is simply more accurate than my CMS.

13. 
    KiddervilleAcres | Apr 19, 2009 04:09pm | #15

    I use my version of the Ultimate Crosscut Sled; kind of a smaller version of the one in the magazine (#199).  Added a swing arm/fence for cutting miters.  Cuts are knuts on and miters are a cinch, even miters with different width boards are easy to do. 

    Like Knotscott I generally don't cut boards longer than 6' with it but I can in a pinch if I have to.  Maybe FWW should have a poll like this discussion; no not a checklist thang but print the responses.   Lot's of good ideas here.

    Regards,

    Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

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    Edited 4/19/2009 9:11 am ET by KiddervilleAcres

    
    

    ---

    Edited 4/19/2009 9:12 am ET by KiddervilleAcres

1. 
   unTreatedwood | Apr 28, 2009 11:14pm | #16

   I just posted an inquiry on the other side of the fence, (breaktime) before I looked over here...shame on me.  I just finished a custom tall cabinet and relized that I do not have a surefire technique to cross cut long pieces of 20"+ plywood.  I use the Festool and rail to break down the ply, and I have a sled for the <48" stuff.  But tackling an 8' long 23" wide piece is a crapshoot for spot on 90 cuts with my festool.  I have a Bosch CMS for more narrow cuts...works great.  I am looking into adding a RAS, but the depth of cut seems limited unless I get a 14" or greater!  My inclination is to get the mft manufactured by Festool as I have the other pieces to make that set up work already.  Am I missing something here?  (I don't have space to add support on the left side of my table saw.  That would be too easy!!)  Thanks.
   At its most basic level, capitalism offers people the freedom to choose where they work and what they do … the dignity that comes with profiting from their talent and hard work. … The free-market system also provides the incentives that lead to prosperity -- the incentive to work, to innovate, to save and invest wisely, and to create jobs for others.” -President George W. Bush

   In other words, free-market capitalism is the best path to prosperity.

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 29, 2009 04:16am | #17

   I'd use a crosscut sled on the TS but you say there's not enough room on that side.  I don't see why one couldn't make a right hand version assuming there is enough space.

   There was an article in issue #199 of FWW - The Ultimate Crosscut Sled.I'm quite sure if you search for it from the Home page here it should come up.  Might give you some ideas.

   I built a smaller version of this sled and wouldn't hesitate to cut stock the size you mentioned, on it.  I fashioned an outrigger type of runner o hold the far side flush with the TS top, similar in concept to the one in the mag. but a lot cruder.

   Now if you had said you needed to cut that piece on a 45 then I might need a helper to keep it steady.

   Regards, Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 29, 2009 04:26am | #18

   Here's the link to the .PDF file for the article: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=30757

   If you have any questions about the sled or problems getting to the link please ask here, OK?

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   mikeddd | May 03, 2009 05:31pm | #20

   I'd use a crosscut sled on the TS but you say there's not enough room on that side.  I don't see why one couldn't make a right hand version assuming there is enough space.

    Bob as you suggested in another post, to build the ultimate crosscut sled to the right of the blade. That would work for me also, as I don't have the room to the left of my saw in my shop set up. I have built smaller crosscut sleds to work on the right side of the blade and I like using them that way ( I do allot of stuff left handed). My question is, is there an advantage to having the sled to the left of the blade or is it just a personal preference. Thanks.

   Mike.

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | May 04, 2009 05:18am | #21

   Hi mike,

   is there an advantage to having the sled to the left of the blade

   Haven't a clue how other folks might feel but for me,being a righty, having the sled on the left I have more confidence in pushing stock through the TS with my right hand/arm/body in charge.  

   Keeps my body away from the danger area and my aiming/shooting eye is right over the edge of the sled for aligning stock.  My left hand/arm can be used to help steady the stock if necessary, well out of harms way.

   So I guess in my case it's a matter of preference.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   mikeddd | May 04, 2009 04:24pm | #22

    Thanks for the reply Bob.

   Mike

2. 
   jointerman | Apr 30, 2009 06:41am | #19

   I just posted on the Sliding Table saw discussion... But if I'm using Plywood, I'll use my TS55, I base it off the factory edge and I feel that it's pretty good. But I certainly can see that it could be off even when registering off the factory edge.That said, I also have the MFT (older 1080) for my TS55. I didn't mention that in my original post because using it is rather slow compared to a SCMS (You have to pull the TS55 out of the Systainer etc.). But I believe the new MFT3 also has a slightly higher 27" crosscut capacity. That's pretty much a panel cut in my book. The table is pretty cool, some of the accessories make it even more useful than my work bench. My only gripe is that my older MFT1080 is kind of low. The new one has remedied that.