Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 17, 2009 05:50am | #1

   Yes, all oil based finishes yellow with age.

   If you are putting Arm R Seal over shellac, the shellac must be dewaxed.

   A question, why are you over coating the shellac? Shellac alone should be just fine for a lamp table. Typically, lamp tables do not get much in the way of abuse. Shellac is very hard and durable and doesn't need any more protection. It is also a much nicer finish for cherry than a poly varnish like Arm R Seal. The Arm R Seal will actually down grade the clarity of the finish.

   Howie.........
1. 
   JOFWW | Nov 17, 2009 01:55pm | #2

   Howie - good comments. Thx.  I'm giving two of the tables as gifts to each of my children.  They are both in their 20s and recently married, and I was thinking I might need to have some additional protection since these tables are probably going to see some use that the one sitting in my home won't.

   Thx

   JOFWW

1. 
   spotcheck | Nov 17, 2009 05:40pm | #4

   Conceivably there will be crashes and bashes from big wheels and balls (and, in my case, little sisters) at some point in the future.

   I have been happy (blanket chests for teenage nieces) with shellac to pop the grain, followed by wipeon poly. 

   I am heading for the bunker, so the "never use poly" brigade may now launch their attack..........:)

1. 
   DonStephan | Nov 18, 2009 04:01am | #5

   Got room in the bunker for another?

   Haven't done so, but if some abuse is possible what about a piece of glass on the table over the shellac?

1. 
   spotcheck | Nov 18, 2009 09:29pm | #6

   Up to you.  Never done it, but don't see why it wouldn't work, but now you are covering up the wood, and on the top only, not the sides.

    I kinda suspect that if grandkids start coming into the picture, the glass might make an early exit - either a preemptive move by the parents, or after a direct hit by the primary combatants.

2. 
   bones | Nov 17, 2009 04:52pm | #3

   I've used shellac alone on several projects and with beautiful results.  However, I'm careful that if  there is a chance of liquids coming in contact i.e. a glass set on the finish that sweats, I'd either cover or use something else(thats just me).  Of course shellac is the easiest finish to fix. 

    I love waterlox on cherry.  It gives a good finish and is tough. I mean if it is good for floors it should take a sweaty glass or two (and it does).   I love how it makes it pop.   I used the satin on this project prefaced with a coat of waterlox sealer.   Good luck and post pictures of the final finish!

   View Image

   ...Advice is a form of nostalgia.  Dispensing it is a way of fishing the past from the disposal, wiping it off , painting over the ugly parts, and recycling it for more than it’s worth –  lyrics from the song wear sunscreen

   
3. 
   PeteBradley | Nov 19, 2009 03:49am | #7

   I've done this with good results. I use gloss Arm-R-Seal, then 0000 steel wool to knock down the finish. As with any finish, be careful not to buff off the finish on corners.

   A couple of coats of Arm-R-Seal are so thin there's no impact on clarity. What you get is a surface that's resistant to alcohol and even cleaners that would damage a pure shellac finish. It doesn't add much heat resistance though so you shouldn't put a coffee cup on it.

   Check out this thread for an example:
   http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=31250.11

   Pete