We are having a small addition that will include a closet. In the back there is considerable space in the eaves so I had the contractor frame the knee wall with an opening of about 3.5′ high x 8′ wide so that I can put some built in shelves in there for storage of less-used items.
My question regards figuring out the dimensions and fitting of the carcass so that it fits the finished opening. At this point it is just framed. I’ll put a couple riser blocks so that the opening is above the baseboard, but what about the face of the carcass relative to the opening? Since they will put up sheetrock I figure I need to have the carcass extend out a bit so the drywall butts up against carcass (and I’ll then trim it out)?
This is a first for me, so I want to make sure I get this right and not create any problems when they go to finish the wall.
thanks, Jake
Replies
Look at how they are leaving your door frames for the drywall guy, and then just do the same. Other wise you will end up confusing some drywaller whose English is perhaps a second language.
First, let 'em rock the whole opening. Then it is sealed from drafts, insulation, & whatever's crawling around in there...
Second, get Built-In Furniture by Jim Tolpin. In addition to lots of great pictures, including the kind of thing you want to build, there is the best illustration I've seen on how to use a story stick to do the layout and get the case to fit correctly. Also good how-to's on how to trim out, fit to un-level/square surfaces, etc.
Thanks, I was looking at that book description and was wondering if it was worthwhile.
This whole thing is not rocket science, but I want to make sure I do things both the right way and the easy way (read, not creating problems for myself or the contractor).
Have the sheetrock come come to the edge of hte opening. Make sure the sheetrockers understand you need the rock along the bottom come up to the top of the riser you put in. This is the way you they are going to sheetrock up against any window or rough door opening.
Build the carcass for the cabinet 1/2" smaller than your opening for both height and width. This should give you enough room to fit into the rough opening, and then shim it level and square. Put trim on the carcass, over the wall - same as it done for windows and doors.
Good luck.
Let the contractor finish up then measure the opening they left. If you try to install something now it'll get fouled up by the drywall mud, paint, etc. The biggest mistake would be to try and fit it in too tight. If you are going to put trim around it, that will cover any gaps. Resist the temptation to make it too deep also. Think about making it in 2 pieces. One 8'x3.5' cabinet, however deep, is just tough to maneuver.
-Paul
Wise advice uncle! I'm going to ask my contractor his feelings and will probably lean that way. May even do as someone else said and let them rock over it and I can cut the opening. I just figured it was easier and less mess to do it now while everything is being framed.
I like your idea of a 2 piece approach and a little undersized, however, so I can make the carcass(es) now and get them in there later.
Thanks for everyone's thoughts.
ohcomeon ,
Another approach for built ins such as this is to make lap over facias . The edge of the cabinet face is routed and finished off and self trimming . Cut the 1/2" for the box OD , slide it home , usually there is drywall above the face so it laps over the opening sides and top . I make it shy in depth to allow room for a back . Screw from behind the face into the opening and tweak till plumb.
good luck dusty
It's easy to open it up if they sheetrock over it. I'd use a RotoZip with a GP (piloted) bit, myself. Just makes it easier if you have a clean frame under the sheetrock to pilot to... then you only have to know one spot to plunge into and you can hog it out tout suite. It'll save the guy doing the wall two minutes... and leave the neatness of the job in your capable hands. :)
I just built three built in bookcases. made them out of 5/4 pine with 3/4 plywood backs and 5/4 shelves. One thing I did that I would not do again is to make a base cabinet that is 2 ft high and 6 ft wide 30 inches deep. I did it to allow a tv to sit on the top of the base cabinet and leave room for a built in bookshelf that sits on top of the bae cabinet. The 30 inch depth is way too deep to actually be useful. Stuff is getting put into it and disappearing. I wouldn't make it more than 20 inches deep the next time.
But to answer your question, do allow the sheetrockers to finish right up to the edge of the opening and then build out to that. I agree you should size it at least 1/2 inch less than the opening. I hate to admit this but one of the bookcases I made is 8 ft tall and I made it too tall and couldn't get it upright when i tilted it. It hit the ceiling. By sheer luck I had a staircase in the room that wasn't finished and I used that space to get the case upright. I was really sweating there for about five minutes, trying to figure out the best way to cut the case in half and fix it so it didn't look like some cob job.
Good luck
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