Replies

1. 
   Elcoholic | Apr 18, 2002 11:07pm | #1

   1) I usually make a new frame and trim it out with the same wood for looks.  The existing jamb should be strong enough, especially if it's shimmed solid at the hinges and you use long screws that penetrated into the studs.  For really heavy doors I use 4 ball bearing hinges.

   2) If the house has or will have dual pane glazing then use dual panel glazing in the door., otherwise what's the point?  Don't even think about doing your own dual pane.  Go to a glass shop and order it.  The void between the panes wil be purged with dry inert gas and never fog up.

   3) I haven't seen any good books on the subject.  My advice is to get absolutely straight grained stock, let it acclimate thoroughly before rough milling and again before final milling, use full mortise and tenon joints, prefferably draw pegged.  For rail and stile porportions look at factory doors for the basics.  Just don't follow suit with the cope and stick joinery and run of the mill stock and you'll end up with something worth the effort.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

2. 
   djpp | Apr 19, 2002 06:03am | #2

   when I place glass in one of my doors I always use insulated glass. I would agee with having the local glass shop encapsulate any decorative glass (such as stained glass). I like to go one step further to  make sure no air can leak between the glass and the wood by weather stripping.

   another sugestion to consider would be to make sure you leave room around the edge of your glass for expansion and contraction , otherwise your glass could break. I use small blocks of rubber and closed cell foam strip between the blocks.

   keep in mind a wood door is heavy and make your mortise and tenons deep and tight.

           have fun

                  Dave