Replies

1. 
   Dave | Aug 08, 2005 01:40am | #1

   I've done the same thing....It's really a problem since the thin profile of the 3/4 inch shelves produces a tremendous bending moment requiring high tensile strength (pulling stress) at the top, and high resistance at the bottom (it's a leverage thing).  it's difficult to find anything available so I improvised?

   Take a 1/4" lag bolt about 4 inches long or so (depending on the depth of your shelves of course, wider shelves=longer bolts) and sink them into studs int he wall.  (You can't just anchor them into sheetrock typically or the bending stresses will tear out the sheetrock.) 

   If they're not  perpendicular to the wall don't worry, you can bend them later.  once in, cut off the heads with a roto-tool, hacksaw, boltcutter, or whatever.  Sink some 1/4" holes in the edges of the shelves to match the spacing (and depth) on the bolts and push shelves over bolts.  It's a little tricky getting them all lined up but once started, it's pretty easy to push it in place.  To remove them later if you need, you can unscrew the bolts using some vicegrips. 

    

   
   

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   Edited 8/7/2005 10:53 pm ET by Dave

1. 
   Dave | Aug 10, 2005 05:58am | #2

   What happened VJ, give up?  :=)

2. 
   mudman | Aug 28, 2005 06:22am | #13

   Dave,

   That is a brilliant idea!! I never considered that. If you use long enough bolts the shaft would enter the shelf several inches. That would make a damn strong shelf for knick knacks!

   Great idea.

   Mike

2. 
   jazzdogg | Aug 11, 2005 04:05am | #3

   How about interlocking two-piece aluminum biscuits?

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

3. 
   Pete | Aug 11, 2005 02:01pm | #4

   I've had good success by routing a half inch groove in the back side of the shelf.  cut yourself a strip that'll fit it tight and mount it to the wall with glue, screws.  then glue the shelf to the strip, clamp (or even toenail with brads) and you'll be amazed.  I don't know how large or heavy you could go with this, but it is strong as stink when I use this technique on corbels.

1. 
   geraldartman | Aug 11, 2005 10:21pm | #5

   How about bed rail connectors mounted sideways?
   Don't really know the width but think they might work.
   Bolts with heads cut fitted into holes are a lot cheaper though. Good idea.

1. 
   KReichow | Aug 11, 2005 11:16pm | #6

   I've had pretty good luck with something similar.

   Instead of using lag bolts, I drill a 5/8 or 1/2 inch hole thru the drywall into the stud about 2 1/2 inches (not including drywall depth).  Drill a matching hole into the edge of the shelf board.  Drill a set of similar holes, one per stud, according to the length of the shelf, along it's long axis (i.e. hortizontally along the wall).  (This DOESN'T WORK for shelves less than 16 inches long... in most houses.)

   Set a 5/8 or 1/2 inch piece of threaded rod into each the holes. length of the rod to be slightly less than the combined depth of the stud/shelf holes.

   Fit the shelf over the rods, and gently fit into place.  (Don't use too much pounding, 'cause you don't want to force the rod all teh way throught the stud!!)

   Assuming the hole and rod diameer are the same, the threads in the rod do a fine job of holding everything in place.  If you've done a pretty good job at getting the rods in a line and perpendicular to the wall, success is likely.  (Slight variations just serve to help the threads hold better!)

   Cheers!

   -Kit

   Edited 8/11/2005 4:38 pm ET by KReichow

1. 
   ring | Aug 12, 2005 06:08pm | #7

   Just wanted to add a note that I've used this system on very large shelves, 2" solid oak over 8' long.  It is very strong and reliable.  However it can get really frustrating to drill accurately enough when you have 4 pins or more along a large shelf.  Try to use a rod size like 3/8" or 1/2" that allows you to transfer the mark with center points.  If the accurate drilling is getting me upset, I prepare the wall as described, but drill the shelf holes 1/8" or even more oversized.  I put a fast-setting adhesive in the holes when mounting and have something ready to support the shelf in exactly the right position until it sets.  I've used polyurethane builders adhesive, and even epoxy meant for marble repair.  You couldn't wish for more strength.  Only disadvantage to these mountings is that the only way to take the shelf off the wall is with a Sawzall.

   DR 

4. 
   WillGeorge | Aug 14, 2005 06:21pm | #8

   Late post but I was busy!

   If you have the space to slide the shelf onto it... Just a sliding dovetail bracket that is fixed to the wall whit whatever.. The dovetail on the shelf not to tight but sort of a good fit.. If 'to good' shelf will not slide on..

   OH! The wall has to be pretty straight... and for a 4 inch hanging out there should work... Unless ya puttin' elephant knickknacks on it!

   
   

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   Edited 8/14/2005 11:23 am ET by WillGeorge

5. 
   Max | Aug 17, 2005 09:18pm | #9

   Jumping on this late... I've had good success lining up the holes using a story board. Mount a piece of scrap to the wall before you drill the studs. Mark the board so you're sure to keep it right side up and out.

6. 
   Max | Aug 27, 2005 07:05pm | #10

   I just saw your z-strips, in Pottery Barn. Give it up, dude. Make your shelves 1-1/2 thick, or at least, with a strip along the back. You won't have to worry about hole alignment, and the shelves will go up about 10 times faster, and will pop off for painting and such.

1. 
   vjk | Aug 28, 2005 02:42am | #11

   Funny you should write today!

   I saw the pottery barn system, but didn't want to have shelves that were thicker than 3/4". I couldn't find those cleats in a smaller size.

   So, today i cut the first  two dove tails on the "cleats", and tomorrow i will do a couple more. The shelves will slide over the dovetails, which will be screwed into the studs in the wall.

   A lot of work, yes. BUT, the shelves will be very secure, it solves the problem of trying to align pins or dowels, the shelves will easily slide off for painting or other maintenance, the 'system' is blind and therefore appealing to the eye, and the whole deal will be portable should i ever move on.

   Everyone gave me great suggestions, and finally i have a moment to say thank you.

1. 
   Max | Aug 28, 2005 03:52am | #12

   Sounds like a great method, if you meet its constraints. Apparently you do. Yeah, should be plenty strong. Thanks for writing back. Happy (sawdust) trails.