I’m building a blanket / hope chest as a wedding present for my daughter. Most plans I’ve seen for these chests call for a half mortise lock. With a 20″ wide solid lid I fear that the keeper won’t line up with the lock with changes in humidity. I’ve contacted Horton Brasses and Ball & Ball and neither has a chest lock with any front to back play between the keeper and the lock. Short of not putting a lock on the chest , I’m stumped. Anyone deal with this problem before?
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Replies
If the top of the chest is made from quarter-sawn wood, you should have very little movement. Most OLDER locks will allow for some movement. Perhaps a local antique dealer will have what you want. Or... try a local locksmith, perhaps they may have what you want.
SawdustSteve
Even quarter sawn at that width would move 1/4" in a climate with dry and wet seasons. Most mortise locks have only 1/8" or so of range, if that much.John W.
woodgs,
It is a problem, for sure. The traditional locks used here in VA were of the "crab" or "grab", type, with an arrowhead shaped keeper that entered the lock, spreading a pair of claws that, when the lid is dropped, snap over the keeper. These were blacksmith made, and are not commercially available. The tolerances are pretty loose on these locks, allowing for seasonal movement.
Modern box locks, as you have noted, are not so forgiving of movement. One shop I worked in dealt with the problem by making their blanket chest lids from face-veneered 3/4" plywood, with its edges covered with a molding on the three front sides and a thin overlay on the back. A solution to the problem, tho not in keeping with tradition.
The modern locks are not, strictly speaking, traditional, either. One could make the lid using frame and panel construction. I've never seen an old blanket chest with this construction, tho I seem to recall a photo of one-- Chester County, Pa, maybe?
Another solution might be to set the keeper of the modern lock into a thin piece of wood that is dovetail-keyed into a slot in the underside of the lid, with enough slack built in to allow for the keeper to slide fore and aft as the lid moves- again not seen on old work.
The last three blanket chests I've built, did not have locks. There is not as much need nowadays, perhaps, to protect ones woolens from thieving servants, as in days of yore, when clothing was more labor-intensive, and servants, not so well clothed.
Ray
This looks like what joinerswork described: Iron Chest Lock. I used it on an oak chest with a 22" plank lid ten years ago, and it still works.
ne sutor ultra crepidam
Edited 2/23/2008 1:56 pm ET by Disputantum
Whoa!! That's an expensive lock.
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
I love that lock! I wish I had know when I mande my nieces cedar chest for her wedding last fall. It's ok, her sister is getting married this summer and has hinted that she wants a chest now.Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Disputantum,
Yup that's it. I didn't know Whitechapel offered it.
Ray
Edit: The drawback to this lock, is that it does not require the key be turned in the lock, for it to lock. That is, it grabs the keeper and snaps shut over it, when the lid is closed, even if you have absent-mindedly removed the key, and laid it inside the chest while rummaging around for that set of long underwear. Many, if not most, of these old locks have been disabled, punched loose, or otherwise removed over the years.
Edited 2/23/2008 3:18 pm ET by joinerswork
They don't make it easy to find. They used to have a smaller version for $50, but not anymore it appears. I just leave the key in the lock.ne sutor ultra crepidam
What timber are you using for the top? Twenty inches is not that wide....But there are so many factors so your worry is well founded.
Has it got to have the type of lock you mention? Could the style accept a brass or antiqued iron hasp and staple type?
Or maybe you could present it without a lock, but having taken measurements so that you can observe the extent of movement due to moisture swings etc. Then you can gauge if you can get away with the lock you want to fit.
Food for thought. Do you really want to put a lock on it? What happens if Grandchildren decide to "play in it" and can't get out, it only takes once.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Bruce,
I agree completely. The old style locks present a safety issue as well as being quite inconvenient. I'm going lockless.
Go look at a Lane cedar chest. Their lock solves the problem, and requires the key to latch it.
There is a recall for all Lane chests made before 1987, due to toddlers getting suffocated in them. If you know anyone who has one of these chests, Lane will send them a free replacement lock.
I have made a number of chests over the years, and recommend the use of floating panel construction for the tops. This alleviates having to deal with seasonal expansion and contraction.
Alternatively, I have recently begun to use laminated panels in much of my work, partly because I am wanting to try some of the more exotic woods that are often available only in veneer format, but mostly because I've decided to introduce more curved work into my design repetoire.
If wood movement is alleviated either through the use of floating panels or laminates, then the selection of locks becomes less an issue, as there are a number of high-quality locks to choose from. I live near a Lee Valley store here in Ottawa, ON, and am quite happy with their product line. The one that I use most costs only $19.70 and looks quite handsome. There's enough material in the brass posts to allow you to file away some material, if the fit is a bit too tight (of course, that NEVER happened to me, right?!):
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=40634&cat=3,41427,41385
I would also like to comment on safety issues vis-a-vis children being trapped inside a chest and suffocating. Three options: 1. screw a 1" square X 2" long block to each front corner of the lid, so that there's always an air gap. Yes, I know the lid won't close nor the lock work; that's the price of safety. When the child gets old enough that this issue doesn't pose a problem, the blocks can be unscrewed and because the holes are in the underside of the lid where they're not that visible, filling the holes is reasonably simple. 2. If your lock is a centre post type, such as the one described above from Lee valley, simply open the lid, turn the key to the locked position and remove it. That way there's always an approximate 1/4" air gap at the front, which should likely be large enough to provide that margin of safety desired. When the child gets old enough that this measure is no longer required, simply unlock it. 3. This one is a bit more drastic: cut some 1" X 6" slots in the back of the chest between the hinges, which could be filled in later.
Hope this helps.
Marty Schlosser
Ottawa, ON
martyswoodworking.ca
It would be easier, and the lid would close completely, to simply remove the strike part of the lock that is attached to the lid. Safety only requires that the child can't be accidentally locked in the chest and be unable to open the lid from the inside.John White
John, Not so, as has been unfortunately documented in a number of cases. Suffocation can occur with small children who inadvertently climbed into such chests and had the lid close on them. Being unable to lift the lid, they suffocated. I therefore recommend there be some physical obstacle that keeps the lid from closing entirely.Marty
Edited 2/25/2008 5:26 pm ET by Planearound
Don't forget to carve her name and the date on the front of the chest!
Tom
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