I just re-wired my 6-inch Rigid jointer for 220 and it has significantly less power and now bogs down on boards that it cruised through on 120. I rechecked my connections against the diagram and every thing seems correct and well connected. Help!
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Replies
Well I am pretty sure that you have something wrong. what kind of motor do they put on there?
A couple of things to start looking for. Double check that you have all of the wires grouped together right. Sometimes they may have the same number but with a different letter, like T2 and P2.
If you have used wire-nuts, with multiple wires, one of them may just barely making contact. With the power turned off, Wiggle and pull on each and every wire to see if there is a loose connection.
I would not recommend that you run it under this condition, but if you do, whenever you shut down, If you kill the power to the circut, poor connections will reveal themselves by being warmer than normal to the touch.
Adurity: Does the outlet have the proper voltage? Were the wires in the peckerhead(electrician speak for the connection box on the side of a motor) numbered or color coded? Shut off power and remove belts, run motor with no load and see if it seems to get up to speed, you should be able to hear the centrifugal switch click, beyond this don't know what to sugest. Duke
Kenneth Duke Masters
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thanks for reply. Wires are numbered 1 thru 8, plus black and white. Double checked the wires at the motor and everthing seems correct. The 220 was installed yesterday. I'll electrician today.
Check your outlet with a voltmeter. Put one probe from the voltmeter into the U-shaped ground hole and the other probe into one of the "hot" legs. It should read 120 volts. Check the other "hot" in the same way. It too, should read 120 volts. Now put one probe into one "hot" holes and the other probe into the other "hot" hole and the meter should read 240 volts. If you don't get those readings, your outlet is incorrectly wired. If your outlet passes these tests, then there is something incorrectly wired in your motor.Howie.........
"The 220 was installed yesterday. I'll [call the] electrician today."
Here's a not-so-long shot - it seems common that when someone asks for a 240V circuit to be installed, they often get a 30A 120/240V dryer receptacle. Many folks are also under the false impression the NEC requires a neutral for 240V circuits, and so when they do it themselves, they run four conductors.
By any chance do you have a 4-pin receptacle, like the 14-30 style in the link (typical of electric clothes dryers)?
http://www.leviton.com/sections/techsupp/nema.htm
Your motor is behaving like a 240V induction motor on a 120V circuit - it will start and run at full speed, but be very weak. Make sure you're not using one hot and the neutral (if present), or the ground (should always be present). If you have a 14-30 receptacle, the "L"-shaped slot is the neutral, and should not be used. The two straight slots are hot, and the rounded one the ground.
Be seeing you...
Put it back on your 120V circuit perhaps?
You put a new 220V plug on the cord end, right? You've double-checked those connections, too?
From past posts like this, a common reason for this happening seems to be that the plug ends up getting miswired. The ground and one of the hots get swapped. The motor ends up with 120V and runs slowly. Also the motor frame gets connected to a 120V line: be careful!!!
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