STL251: Assume the glue is going to failMike, Anissa, and Ben discuss Patrick Sullivan's end-grain glue myths video, how a listener can hide a joint on an 18-ft. run of molding, and the pros and cons of floating tenon joinery.
I keep hearing about how pointless it is to glue end-grain on dovetails, and FWW videos are no exception. I’ve seen end-grain to side-grain joints hold up to my attempts to break by hand, but a long enough fulcrum would break the joint.
Just today this video “Glue Myths: 1. End grain” by Patrick Sullivan popped up on my YouTube suggestions, and I’d like for Mike and BVD, and any or all others to watch and comment on:
I don’t think the same results are possible unless the mating surfaces are well prepared, and I don’t think I would consider end-grain-to-end-grain if I could scarf-joint or at least add a dowel. (Does that make me a science denier?)
Personally, I have always glued end grain on dovetails, for two reasons:
- Every glue surface helps
- I always hand cut, and swelling the end-grain helps any gappy baseline.
by Ben Strano
I’m currently working on a set of built-in shelves and fireplace surround made from walnut. The full piece will span an entire 18-foot long wall. The top of the shelves will meet the ceiling via shop-made moldings, including a 4-inch wide cove molding. My problem is that I need an 18 ft long molding. I don’t have stock that long, and it would be really unwieldy to work it even if I did. So I’m faced with making it from shorter lengths. My question is, can you recommend an end-to-end joint that is both secure and relatively invisible for this application? I’ve mainly seen people use a 45 degree overlap, which I find very difficult to make invisible.
I am a devoted listener to STL. You guys have led me to become an Unlimited subscriber, which I find myself using frequently — it’s kind of like having a book always available titled “Absolutely EVERYTHING Woodworking“.
Segments: Who knows what all that was!
First I want to say I enjoy the podcast and think everyone does an excellent job, and I look forward to new episodes.
I am planning to design and build a table for our dining room. I am fairly new to woodworking and this would be my first project with mortise and tenon joints. Then I came across the Rockler beadlock system. I was wondering if floating tenon’s provide the same strength as a traditional tenon? I have read a lot about the Festool domino and I was wondering if this was the same principal? I look forward to hearing your thoughts and keep up the great work.
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