STL213.5: The Bob Van Dyke show
Contributing editor Bob Van Dyke gets the show to himself answering questions about pre-finishing, constructing built-ins, and creating a profile on a curved edge without a router.
Hey guys/gal – recently I have been making larger case pieces. I live in West Virginia andI have been bringing case parts inside for prefinishing due to shop temperature and lack of dust. However, while putting polyurethane on the inside face of each panel, I am experiencing cupping. While I am familiar with WHY this happens, is it preventable? The stock IS dry, should I leave the pieces in my unheated shop and just deal with the lower temps, and likely slower drying times?
I am building some built-in bookcases. What’s a good method for attaching the top bookcases to the countertop of the base cabinets? This is a key question for me since I have no earthly idea what method would work best for stability and longevity.
As I see it these are my options:
- Screws from underneath (placement could be problematic)
- Selby Keyhole
- Cleats joining the cabinet and shelf backs
I’ve never used an L Fence before so I am not certain if this would work and could use a little guidance.
I am making a pair of nightstands inspired by Phil Morley’s dining table from issue #275. The top on his table has a shape that is not perfectly square but has a slight curve on each edge and Phil routes a profile on his table top with a central bearing thumbnail bit that I cannot seem to get in Canada (at a reasonable price). Now, I know there are many router bit profiles but the ones I think would look good for this tend to be pricey and I am trying to avoid going too far down the rabbit hole of router bits at this stage. I’m still in the early stages of this journey and there are a lot of other tools I need to buy so, I am looking at other options for the profile.
I am thinking of creating a large bevel on the bottom with an acute angle and a 45 degree chamfer on the top. ( so the top would have about a 1/4 inch chamfer with about a 1/4 flat section and them a larger, more acute, bevel on the bottom) I am having a hard time figuring out how to make that bottom bevel without making a jig to hold the router at an angle. I feel the jig would also give me some trouble due to the shape I’d have to follow.
Could I use the L Fence to cut along that curved top with the blade at an angle to get my bottom bevel? (let’s say 30 deg for the sake of the argument) Since you can use the fence for mitered corners, I know it would work if my piece were straight but, will the saw have a problem following a gentle curve without any safety issues? The curve is subtle but should I be concerned about trying to push the piece through the blade following it?
A recent job called for me to mill a short run of custom molding to match an existing profile. I roughed out the profile on the tablesaw, but needed a…
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