STL 158: You see a chisel, he sees your soul
Plus, bandsaw tables, mitered shooting boards, smooth moves, philosophical woodworking questions, glass disk sharpening systems, and pencil vs. knife
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05:52 – Question 1:
How important is it to have an absolutely flat bandsaw table? I just bought a used 17”Minimax and discovered that the cast iron table isn’t flat. Is this likely to create a problem? If so, what’s the best fix? I’m hoping I didn’t just buy an expensive doorstop? – Jim
12:10 – Question 2:
I made Todd Crenshaw’s miter shooting board from issue #261. The idea is that the plane is tilted at 45 degrees away from the workpiece and the plane side rides on a wood runner. I know that on a regular shooting board, the first few passes typically leave a little ledge that the sole rides against. Sure enough, when I took my first few passes with this shooting board, it removed a little material from the shooting board. Unfortunately, now the plane won’t stay seated perfectly. With pressure toward the wood runner I can keep it 45 degrees but it’s kind of annoying. When I don’t apply pressure the plane wants to tilt toward the workpiece. Did I do something wrong, or is that just how this shooting board works? -Bradley
- A Shooting Board for Case Miters by Todd Crenshaw (Issue #261 – 2017)
- 4 Bench Jigs for Handplanes by Norman Pirollo #202–Tools & Shops 2009 Issue
- Shooting Boards Aim for Tight Joints by Michael Dunbar #144–Sept/Oct 2000 Issue
- Mitre Shooting Board by Tom Fidgen
18:00 – Smooth Move
35:36 – Question 3:
I’m just getting started in woodworking. I’m a bit confused about how I should mark dimensions and cuts. When do I use a marking knife versus a pencil? I see both used in fine woodworking, but I’ve never figured out why one is picked over the other. -Michael
- Layout: Pencil vs. Knife by Christian Becksvoort #179–Sept/Oct 2005 Issue
- Layout: When Pencil Beats Knife by Steve Brown #224–Jan/Feb 2012 Issue
50:08 – Philosophical Woodworking Question
1:02:20 – Question 4:
What do you think of glass disk sharpening systems such as the Worksharp 3000 and Veritas MKII Power Sharpener? I know you’re fans of waterstones, but this seems SO much easier! -Ken
From Amy Costello @basicallyeverything.folio
I was just listening to STL#156, the question about sanding scratches in a turning. I’m also an only moderately skilled turner who still needs sandpaper, but luckily, I’ve had excellent instructors to help me on the way.
You guys were spot on about moving the paper a lot so you don’t get scratches from one bit of grit staying in place for too long, but Mike’s comment about sanding at the highest speed possible was a bit off. It’s ok to sand at high speeds when you’re in the low grits and you’re still trying to adjust the shape quickly, but once you’re ready to focus on smoothing the surface, it’s actually better to turn the lathe speed down. This is because, at really high lathe speeds, it’s difficult to move your sandpaper fast enough to prevent deep scratches from forming, just like they do if you hold the paper in one place for too long. The slower your lathe speed and the faster you move your sandpaper, the easier it is to create a random sanding pattern and to avoid creating deep scratches. I usually turn my lathe down gradually as I work through the grits, ending somewhere around 300-400 rpms when I get to 400 grit. If I’m sanding a really dense wood, I might go as high as 1200 grit at the same speed.
Just thought I’d throw my two cents in. You guys do great work!
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