STL 156: Is a bigger bandsaw better?
Plus, choosing stock for a desktop, sanding techniques for turning, chopping through mortises, favorite techniques, and a preview of Tom's interview with Gary Rogowski
00:38 – Question 1:
A few years ago, I built a desk for my granddaughter with a top made of rift sawn red oak. I want to build the same desk for my grandson, who has requested black walnut. What is the best option for the top? Should I small loan and buy 8/4 rift or quarter sawn black walnut or use my bandsaw to re-saw my existing 15/16th inch plain sawn black walnut into approximately 1/2-inch thickness and glue to 3/4 MDF. I am hesitant to use veneer as described by Tim Coleman because I am afraid it will wear easily and reveal the substrate MDF. -Jim
06:18 – Question 2:
When I get to the sanding part of a turning project, I can never seem to get all the scratches out. I go through the grits in sequence, usually up to 320 or 400. But when I turn the lathe off to check, I can always see a few scratches. When I move from one grit up to the next grit, the scratches typically go away, but I’ll get new ones in other places from the new grit. Am I doing something wrong? -Bob
11:52 – Gary Rogowski
On February 9th, we’ll publish our complete interview with Gary where he’ll talk more about his book Handmade: Creative Focus in the Age of Distraction.
20:25 – Question 3:
I am building Mike’s floating-top table from issue 263 and I was wondering if you have any tips on fitting the support through tenon. I tried to use the method Gregory Paolini used in his video on building the Morris Chair and failed miserably. What is the secret to tight mortises that size? Good photography software? -Tom
25:35 – Question 4:
I’ve heard both Matt and Mike make remarks about wanting a 20” bandsaw. My question is why? Larger resaw? More power? What would make a 20” saw any better than say an 18” with the same size motor? -Mike
30:45 – All Time Favorite Technique of All Time… for this week.
44:58 – Question 5:
I’m currently running the thin kerf 40 tooth ATB Woodworker II blade for general purpose cutting, and I’m getting ready to order the custom, flat grind version the same blade for square cut box joints, rabbets, etc. My general rule is to always run thin kerf blades on underpowered saws like mine, but given the blade will be used primarily for shallow passes on dados and rabbets, is there an argument for going with the standard kerf, since it’s unlikely to bog down given my use. -Anthony
Special Projects Editor
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