Push pads that actually work. Are you ready?
Absorbent and pink and porous is he
Aug 07, 2017
While searching for what to write about this week, I also needed to resaw a nice piece of flame crotch Northern Red Oak—which is when my quest was answered: push pads.
Now there are tons of little push pads on the market, and they all work to varying degrees (or not). The pads that come with new tools, say a jointer, typically have a thin layer of some kind of not-so-sticky rubber-like stuff that either stops holding the instant sawdust contacts it or simply starts peeling away from the plastic grip on the second day you use them. These pads are relatively tiny, and I always feel like my hands are entirely too close to the blade or cutter when I’m using them.
A few years ago, a friend turned me on to the ultimate push pad: a foam grout float, and not just any grout float, but the red foam style. My favorites are made by Marshalltown. The trowels measure 4 in. x 9 in. and have about 9/16 in. of foam that tells sawdust to get lost and sticks to wood like June bugs on a July windshield. A large handle mounted to an aluminum base means that your hands are far from the cutting edge, giving you great control and safety . And they cost about six bucks.
One of the great things about these floats is that you can use them to hold small parts safely while the blade or cutter gnaws a groove in the foam. I often hold small, fragile pieces down on the tablesaw or up against a router fence where I know I’ll likely contact the blade or cutter with the foam, but I have the upper hand—literally.
So the next time you’re at the hardware store grab a pair, or a half dozen. They make it easier to stick to your task.
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Comments
Great idea, thanks Roland.
Probably not a good choice for use with a SawStop table saw. That metal would trigger the brake.
Actually, I think the metal plate that close to spinning saw teeth is a bad idea in general. It could catch and pull you hand Into the saw blade.
The best push block I have found is one I made that raises the handle so the lowest part of my hand is at LEAST 4" above the blade or bit. In the "rubber float" featured in this article, my curled fingers would be way too close to a raised blade. The metal plate is also an issue for me. To get traction, I apply a strip of medium to coarse sandpaper. It is the best. Does not get slick, will not hold sawdust, does not require excessive downward pressure, does not mark the stock, is easily available and easily refreshed with a new piece, although some of my push blocks are over three years old and showing no wear or pealing off. In addition, I attach a sliver of wood on the rear of the block that is attached by two screws in two oversized (elongated) holes, that allow the end of the scrap to freely drop 1/4", creating a retractable heal. Far better than the dozen other styles I have bought or built and tested.
The metal plate is aluminum, the grip is as high as standard push pads, the foam grips well, and if you saw through 9/16in of foam I guess you'll need a new Sawstop cartridge.
I actually have a lot of little push pads in storage in my garage, I seem to buy them and have the same problems as you with holding them and getting comfortable and they almost always end up somewhere in my storage room because I can't get them to fit right! Then sometime down the road I'd have forgotten whether I've thrown them away or stored them, then the cycle starts all over again...
My understanding is you need to be in contact with metal to set off the sawstop, so if you are holding the handle it won't fire.
I use it more to do face jointing on my 6 inch jointer. On table saw, it is usually too wide for my use. Although when it can be used, I like it. It grips well for me with little downward pressure.
Goldblatt makes an all plastic version without the metal plate. Been using it for years ... works great!
The metal part of the unit makes me uncomfortable. What would be good is a to find a supplier where the plastic foam part can be purchased. A wooden pad, with this particular foam attached, would be better. Any ideas on a supplier?
These work great. I have used them on my jointer, table saw, band saw and router table. The caveat is that they shouldn't be used in cases where the metal would be near the blade.
Found the same thing but different brand at our local Menards. Bought a pair and love them. So much better grip! Only use others when need a narrower grip. Excellent on the router table as well! Thanks! Steve
Just ordered two on Amazon.
I agree with those who are uncomfortable with the metal plate. It that pad could be attached to a 1/2"-3/4" wooden base, with a more substantial handle, that I could go for.
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