Replies

1. 
   kreuzie | Nov 25, 2008 06:48am | #1

   If you have a planer, plane down some poplar or other stable wood to the thickness of the original insert, or the depth from the table top to whatever the insert sits on.

   Use double faced carpet tape to fix the insert to the stock you've planed.

   Next, bandsaw around the insert about 1/8" proud of the insert.

   Then, using a router with a flush trim bit, rout around the insert. You now have a duplicate of the original insert.

   Lower the blade on the table saw completely. Insert the new, blank insert in the saw table. Using a push stick to hold down the insert (stay clear of where the blade will come through), turn on the saw and slowly raise the blade through the new insert.

   You now have a new (inexpensive) zero-clearance insert.

   If you have some slop in the fit, add 1" pieces of masking tape front/rear and left/right until the fit is snug but not tight. Trim off the overhanging tape with a knife.

   If the insert is thick enough, countersink small flat head wood screws in the insert and back them out or in to adjust the fit.

   kreuzie

    

1. 
   jimmiem | Nov 27, 2008 03:20pm | #12

   Any comments on using tempered hadrboard for the TS insert?  The insert recess is < 1/4 inch.  I've found some 3/16" tempered hardboard.  My other thought was to use something thicker and route a rabbet on the edge so the top would be brought flush with the top of the TS.

    

    

1. 
   BruceS | Nov 27, 2008 04:09pm | #13

   If you use an acrylic or phenolic plate, they tap better than wood.  You can drill and tap it for small allen set screws.  Good option for tweeking it flush with the table top.  Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

2. 
   Dave45 | Nov 27, 2008 05:54pm | #14

   My early zero clearance inserts were made from scrap 1/4" ply with strips of duct tape around the eges to bring it flush with the table.Three layers of tape usually did the trick. Not particularly elegant, but it worked.

1. 
   governor | Nov 28, 2008 02:59am | #15

   I use some left over "engineered" flooring. It is 7-ply & 3/8" thick with a finished top surface. Takes some time but as you know the added safety benefit alone makes it time well spent.

1. 
   Dave45 | Nov 28, 2008 05:28pm | #16

   That should work, too. I made my last set from some 1/2" baltic birch ply that was left over from a cabinet job. When I had the thickness dialed in, I gave them a coat of paste wax.For most of this year, I've been using prefinished baltic birch for drawer boxes. I would have used that, but didn't have any small pieces in the scrap box. - lol

2. 
   Dave45 | Nov 25, 2008 08:24am | #2

   I just made eight for my Craftsman out of scrap 1/2" baltic birch ply. That will probably last me for a year, or so.

   I cut the pieces as rectangles, used the stock insert as a pattern to mark the curved ends, cut the curves on the bandsaw, ran them thru the planer with the "good" side down, cleaned up the edges with a sander, and drilled 7/8" holes in one end so my stubby finger can get them out.

   
3. 
   chocolatehills | Nov 25, 2008 10:31am | #3

   Make one for yourself like kreusie said. I have a very expensive insert that I bought for my PM66, I still use it, but everyday I am reminded how bad it is (I am just too stubborn to throw it out) I have some inserts that I made for my dado blade, they are really beautiful, took an hour to make and work perfectly.

4. 
   pielikiepap | Nov 25, 2008 02:30pm | #4

   Here is a video demonstrating how to make a zero clearance http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/149/videos/making-a-zero-clearance-dado-insert/.
   I found it helpful.The above is for a dado zero clearance insert.
   Here is the video for the regular http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/178/videos/zero-clearance-insert/. I am sorry I goofed. Both are helpful though.

   
   

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   Edited 11/25/2008 6:36 am ET by pielikiepap

5. 
   BossHog | Nov 25, 2008 05:46pm | #5

   I also have an old Craftsman saw. I ordered an insert that said it fit "Most Craftsman saws". (I don't remember where)

   The shape was right, but the edges were too thin. so I ripped a couple of real narrow strips and epoxied them in to make the thing stay up flush with the table top.

   Kreuzie suggested holding the insert down with a push stick while you raise the blade up through it. I prefer to clamp a scrap of 2X4 on top of the saw for a foolproof hold down.

   I may not be right, but I can sure sound like it

6. 
   HTguy | Nov 25, 2008 06:21pm | #6

   For my Craftsman saw I used 1/4" birch ply reinforced with a piece of 3/4" oak sized to miss the blade and back from the perimeter by 1/2" or so.  Behind the blade the oak has a projection that supports a spliter.  The 1/4" ply was just a bit thinner than the recess so I left the front alone an shimed the back with some tape so that work will not catch.  On the front end of the oak I installed a roll pin to act as a hold down.

   
1. 
   jimmiem | Nov 26, 2008 03:42am | #8

   I like the idea of using the oak to hold the splitter.  I was wondering how to attach the splitter.

   Thank You.

    

    

    

1. 
   HTguy | Nov 26, 2008 03:52pm | #10

   I used acrylic for the splitter and just screwed it to the oak.  The hard part of this method is locating the splitter exactly right.  I got it as close as I could leaving it a little proud and then used a shoulder plane to dial it in one shaving at a time.

   Bill

7. 
   notatexan | Nov 25, 2008 08:45pm | #7

   I bought a couple of plastic cutting boards (the white or grey ones that bend) from the dollar store and made them out of that.  Cut the shape on the band saw then routed a lip so that it fit flush with the table.  Need to be careful cutting the slot because the stuff is thicker than 1/4.  Rout a clearance groove on the underside so the blade doesn't touch.

8. 
   sinsin | Nov 26, 2008 04:44am | #9

   I do as kreuzie however I install an 8" blade on my 10" saw when I cut the insert.

9. 
   BruceS | Nov 26, 2008 05:04pm | #11

   Go for making your own !!   Over the years Sears has had many Mfg's build their saws.  And to get a good aftermarket insert that fits is a cxxp shoot.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S.