How do you paint a wooden chair, without it getting permanently stuck to the dropcloth? Is the upper painted and dried before the lower half is painted?
When I used to make pottery, a pot was supported in the kiln on a “stilt” (imagine the pot resting on a tripod of three thumbtacks). It kept the glaze from fusing the pot to the shelf of the kiln.
Is this how furniture is painted–all at once, and resting on pointed supports to keep the painted surface off the floor?
Janet
Replies
You're on the right track. Partly drive a nail up into the bottom each leg and paint (or dye, stain and polish) away. Slainte.
Hi Janet, as Richard said, nails in the legs is the way to go .You will also find that making a nail board is great for spraying small objects ,similar to the principle you use in pottery.I had to spray a hundred spheres and it allowed me to finish them even when the air blew them around a bit
dw, I do a lot of painting of odd shaped objects and I use 'Sky Hooks' to suspend objects from a ceiling screw eye (Or two) mounted overhead.
If I,m spray painting, I incorporate heavy duty fishing line swivels, so as to rotate the whole unit enmasse.
For flat objects where both sides must be painted/sprayed, I use very slender strips of wood cut in triangular cross section
They keep the flat panels from contacting the work bench/ wooden horses. I paint the bottoms first, then the best face is turned up for final coating.
Most of the time after the paint is throughly dried, all I have to do is a slight touch up if any 'Footprints' show.
I once painted my whole houseful of 21 doors in one shot, using a battery of horses that way. (In my back yard)
To make those strips, I rip the thin Boards (3/8")with the tablesaw's blade at 45dg's, then flip over the board (end for end) for the next cut and so on, 'till I have enough triangles Stein
Edited 5/3/2004 11:13 pm ET by steinmetz
Stein:
Your ideas just floored me. I had never thought of hanging something from the ceiling... until now. WOW!!! I could leave a section of screw eyes in the ceiling full time and simply attach 6 foot premade monofilament fishing leaders and hang my work from those whenever I need them. Before I get too excited about this, let me please ask a question?
Do you shoot your cabinet doors laying down (to prevent drips if you get too much finish buildup) or do you shoot them hanging up? I noticed the factory kitchen cabinets in our house have two small holes in each of the inside top corners. Would these be there due to the factory finishing?
Idea of triangles is also pretty slick.
Thanks for sharing
Rob,most of the finishes I use, are applied with a brush or dauber. Usually amber shellac (Orange) over walnut stain.
I hang my spray projects from a barn's rafters using window chain and swivel hooks or sky hooks (Just coat hanger rod bent like a long narrow letter S (As in Steinmetz)
Stein
Edited 5/4/2004 11:38 pm ET by steinmetz
DWREAD,
As usual, "Sgian" is correct. That being said, however, I prefer screws because they make it so easy to level the chair so it's nice and stable while finishing.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
DWREAD,
I use screws too, 2 1/4" drywall screws thru various stocks. Must be a dozen or more around the shop at all times. Some are years old. For safety I suggest breaking that sharp screw point somehow. I use the 9" disk sander. You can tap them together point to point for safe storage.
Enjoy, Roy
I've applied primer to the chair, and in the process came up with more questions on technique.
What is the best tool for painting between slats? Or should the slats have been painted before the chair was assembled?
The primer tends to puddle at edges (and there are *lots* of edges), making a thicker layer and the occasional rivulet that runs down the adjacent face. As it is only the primer coat, I used a mini-plane to shave down the thick areas. But how do I avoid this problem--use a very dry brush and apply several very thin coats instead of one regular coat?
Janet
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