I’m in process of studding out my basement workshop. I’m at a bit of a loss as to what I should use as wall covering over the studs.
I have the following requirements:
– paintable – white or off-white for best light reflection
– hard – to resist dings
– looks reasonably good (in case I ever have to sell the house)
– I’d love to be able to put a damn nail anywhere I please to hang stuff
What have some of you used?
Is sheetrock (actually ‘drywall’ since I’m canadian-eh) the best choice?
Les
Replies
The right stuf, IMO, is 3/4" or thicker plywood with drywall over it.
Drywall covers your 1st and 3rd requirement.
Drywall won't resist dings, but with plywood behind it, you won't be poking any holes through it. Plaster is hard, but expensive to hire done, and a DIY job probably won't meet your looks good requirement.
Plywood will hold nails, depending on what you're trying to attach. I'd probably use screws instead.
I should probably warn you that in terms of current North American building standards, this would be vastly overengineered. If you were to ask for bids on it, you'd get funny looks and/or tradesmen believing they had found someone with more money than good sense.
In most places in the States, you'll find a plywood product called T-111, a panel used for exteriors of buildings and often in side garages. It is Fir or pine, and has machined vertical grooves, and also a textured surface, edges overlap in rabbets and is 1/2" thick. If you prime and finish paint, it should meet all your needs. Check your building supply house.
duster
>> ... it should meet all your needs.
Except the one about looking good.
How about using OSB? It runs @7/16" thick and goes on well with drywall screws. It isn't as rough as the T1-11 and is cheaper too. I am using it around my bench and it holds brackets, etc well.
Hey, how's it goin?
I used OSB on two of my shop walls (the other two already, thankfully, had t&g pine boards). I hung it with the smooth side, ie the side with the printing, out. I primed the stuff with KILZ 2 and then painted it over with an off white semi-gloss latex. I think it looks good. The wood chips in there add some nice texturing effects. It holds a nail or screw pretty well and it doesn't dent easily like drywall can. It was alot cheaper than plywood. My shop is a converted garage with an overhead door so I have good ventilation. I would use caution with OSB in a basement though.
Later,
R
Sheath the walls with osb or plywood, 1/2" works fine. You could put dryall over it or just paint it. If you paint it , install with the smooth side towards room.
mike
Any chance the basement might get flooded or be excessively damp?
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
Uncle Dunc: I would echo your comments on "good looks" with one small caveat. I have seen T111 tastefully and attractively used - once. A local restaurant here in Lincolnshire Illlinois named Egg Harbor used it well.
It was painted - thoroughly - very thoroughly with a semi gloss taupe paint. Looks like it was probably sprayed with multiple coats This totally occluded the rough texture and "woody" look and gives the room a very "country" look. They accessorize with a light red brick fireplace and pillars as well as lots of ceramic roosters (I know that sounds kind of fruity, but it works well) which makes sense since they do most of there business at breakfast time.
>> I have seen T111 tastefully and attractively used - once.
Good to know it's possible. Thanks.
lesz,
I used 7/16' OSB on the walls in my shop, painted white. I'm very happy with it but you should check code before installing. If you go with sheetrock for code you might consider some sort of fiberglass panel over it all or partially as in wainscoting. That would give you good looks and protection where you need it most. Good luck!
Regards,
Mack
"WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
I second, T-111
Norm used it in one episode when he was building a garage shop for all the reasons you're concened with. It looked good, it was durable, and the biggest reason being you can hang things annywhere you want w/o looking for the studs. Since most shops are always a "work in progress" and constantly evolving this is the mostefficient approach, IMO.
Dan
I'd just use drywall. When you start planning things out, you won't really need to just hang things "anywhere." You'll decide where you want to hang things and you can then then create shelves or hooks or anything else. Of course, if money is no object then the T-111 or the plywood covered by drywall is fine too. The drywall is just cheaper and simpler for dealing with electrical boxes and so forth.
Lesz,
I just finished a pantry closet in my basement (on the small side, I got the big side) and had the exact same requirements.
I am not in the construction business, so I do not know exactly what it was that I bought but basically it was 1/2 in ac plywood with one finished side that had like a paper veneer on it. I spackled the seems like drywall and painted it and it looks great.
P.S. realizing I had an extra sheet downstairs. I went down and pulled it out and there was no writing at all on the back. Sorry
You most likely have MDO plywood. A very nice but spendy product. Unlike many other construction plywoods, mdo does not have any voids.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled