Walked into my local Mom/Pop owned woodworker’s store Sunday. Wanted a $3.00 item but as usual, I spied something I didn’t have (read: wanted!). And believe me, I bought a lot of “miracle” devices that never came close to delivering what was promised.
Walked out with a new Worksharp sharpener.
I’m impressed with it’s simplicity and effectiveness. I just spent about 5 min per chisel putting a “scary sharp” edge on each one.
Yup, I know that I could buy a lot of water and sandpaper for that $200 (Worksharp 3000) and sharpen each chisel when needed. BUT…. because it’s so easy, quick and effective, I’ll NEVER use a chisel that “I’ve gotta sharpen when I get time”…. I just walk over to the Worksharp , push the chisel in and in 2-3 min it’s sharp…. super sharp! I’ve used every known method to sharpen my chisels and have never gotten such a sharp and mirror polished edge.
Lots of money? Not really when you consider I get paid to produce product, not sharpen tools…..
Just one man’s opinion.
Replies
RW,
In my opinion, you have hit the nail on the head. The WorkSharp can put a nice edge on a chisel, and a secondary bevel too. There are a lot of woodworkers who have never had sharp chisels, and just don't take the time to learn to sharpen by hand. Once they see what the WorkSharp can do, they are sold, and it is worth the money to them.
Nothing wrong with that. If you have been using dull chisels, this will open up new worlds to you. Congratulations, and good luck. I have used the machine to see what it can do.
A bunch of us at the local Woodcraft really put it through its paces. It can flatten the back of a chisel very nicely, very fast. Then it puts a nice bevel and edge on, very fast and with no chance for error. You just can't go wrong. We were all impressed
Have fun.
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
C'mon, you guys, would you stop it!!! I'm trying to save up $$ for a new table saw, and you've got me drooling over super-easy, super-sharp chisels that don't involve dragging out a piece of plate glass, spray adhesive and a water spritzer! Sheesh!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
You gotta admit, it's cheaper than a new horse! Won't catch any maladys and you won't have to spread expensive hay around for it! It won't chew on its stall or inflate it's belly so your seat is loose! It won't try to rub you off on some rednecks pickup truck or decide to crow hop down a slippery 60 degree slope! And while it may leave a bit of mess behind it, none of it will be the size of apples and none of it will be steaming!
I have great admiration for those who have an understanding with those beasts and I hope you are having a grand time, we don't always get a second chance to do what we love to do, make the most of it!------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
FG,IMHO, the Worksharp is a nice little machine for someone who has the money and just doesn't want to learn to sharpen by hand. The service provided by the WorkSharp is limited and expensive. It can't do anything over 2" in its "automatic" mode, like a 2 1/4 plane blade. The sandpaper does wear out rather quickly because it spins over the blade and wears out a ring of sandpaper quickly. The sandpaper packages for it are very pricey. I am not being two-faced on this device. I have tried to point out what its advantages and limitations are. I used to use sandpaper and sometimes still do. "Scary sharp" is a good name for the practice, but it is a pain to replace the sandpaper. I have been lucky enough to try out all of the sharpening methods but waterstones, and there are two that are very nice for honing chisel and plane blades, that are not much trouble. They are: diamond stones and ceramic stones. You can get two diamond stones, each with a different grit on each side for $100. That includes what DMT calls, extra coarse, coarse, fine and extra fine. That is one heck of an arsenal. You just use water as to get the metal dust out of there, and wipe the stones down when you are finished. If there is a downside to Diamond stones, it is that they are a bit heavy to carry around in your toolbox. So I'd just take the "Fine / extra fine" one with me to worksites.The ceramic stones are even easier to use in that you don't use water or oil or anything. You just hone away. Every once in a while, you clean off the stone with a plastic scrubbie and some Bon Ami or other abrasive cleaner. They have two downsides. If you drop one on cement or another hard surface, it can shatter. Also they only come in three grits, and the fine and extra fine are very close in grit size. However, the medium and the extra fine together do a really fine job for honing. The medium will not remove a lot of material quickly like a coarse or extra coarse diamond stone will.If a person doesn't want to take the time to learn to sharpen without a jig, I recommend the Veritas Mark II. I use that when I want to establish a new FLAT bevel on a blade. For a curved bevel, one needs a jig with a narrow roller. Those can be had from Lie Nielsen or from Woodcraft.I am only trying to be helpful. I hope you don't think I am talking down to you. You may be one of those people who can sharpen anything with their eyes closed, only using a rock. The best tutorial on sharpening by hand is found on the Tools for Working Wood website at http://www.toolsforworkingwood.comMy preference is diamonds and no jig, but that is just me. I don't try to talk people into doing things my way. Hope that is useful to you.
Give that grandbaby of yours a hug. I am jealous. But mine should be coming soon.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Mel,
You mention:
"If a person doesn't want to take the time to learn to sharpen without a jig, I recommend the Veritas Mark II. I use that when I want to establish a new FLAT bevel on a blade. For a curved bevel, one needs a jig with a narrow roller. Those can be had from Lie Nielsen or from Woodcraft".
Despite telling myself not to buy any more sharpening gizmos, I got enamoured of the idea of cambered blades so bought a Veritas MarkII. This can be fitted with their barrel shaped roller (the shape is actually flat in the middle third with each side rolling off from the flat section).
Like you I am very pleased with the MarkII, particularly the angle-setting bit which makes it very, very easy to resharpen or hone a blade to exactly the same angle you did before. With the barrel roller I also find it very easy to make those cambers, a skill I was worrying about getting.
So, no need for another whole jig to get cambers - MarkII + barrel roller does the whole job.
Meanwhile I am trying hard not to look at that Workshrp thang. Soon I will need a whole new cabinet for sharpening stuff alone!
Lataxe, new to the MarkII
Lataxe,
You have opened me up to new opportunities. I did not know about a barrel that can be put on the Veritas Mark II. I will get on the Lee Valley site and look it up now.You are a veritable font of good information.
Thank you.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Hi, Mel. I was joshin' you guys, ya know, but actually I really do appreciate the sharpening info. I've been using ScarySharp to the extent that do sharpen, but am getting interested in methods that don't require dragging all that stuff out (it'd be different if I had enough space to keep it set up). Of course, the primary attraction to ScSh, other than "it works!" is how cheap it is.
I'll store that hug until the next time I see Jacob!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Mel,
I can sharpen very well by hand (without jigs), but I have still been intrigued enough by the Worksharp to "toy" with the idea of a purchase.
Reason for the consideration: I spent this past Sunday afternoon cleaning up 4 glued up cherry panels, 4' X 10"+ (both sides). I was OK on a couple, but I did have some grain reversals and had to resort to a variety of planes, card scrapers and cabinet scraper to get through the job. Net effect is I have a number of plane blades that will now require some time to bring them back to "ready to go" condition. Maybe a bit of honing will do it, but I suspect it may take a bit more than that (I've been here before).
Anyhow, will I buy the machine or not? Right now, maybe. If I delay the consideration until after my sharpening chores, probably not.
I can see the limitations of the plane bale port to 2" as this will negate wider blades, such as for #4-1/2, #5-1/2 and the LV BU smoother. However, the bar rest on top of the machine looks as if a lot of additional jigs are possible.
Although I prefer to use hand tools for as much of the job as I can, I also prefer woodworking to the maintenance chores required and am not about burning a few electrons to make any part of the job easier.
Thanks for your thoughful insights on the machine and giving us all an "insider's" view to Woodcraft!
T.Z.
Tony,
Glad to help.
Mel
PS I try not to "advise" people, but rather just to provide information that they cannot readily get themselves. Whether to get a WorkSharp or not is a personal decision, but info on how it works is easy and good to share.
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
RW,
The tool sounds like something I'd use and like using it....
I tried a quick search, but "WorkShop" was all I could get. Could you list a link or two that describes it and where's a good price?
I'd bet that the Wood Carver people would like that kind of tool, too!!
Thanks,
Bill
Bill,
Here is a website for the WorkSharp.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20310Let me know if you have any questions about it.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Let me know if you have any questions about it.Mel
Mel,
How would you compare the way "WorkSharp" sharpens and feels to the ones below?
View ImageJET Slow Speed Wet Sharpener Model 708015 Accessories
View ImageTORMEK Sharpening System 2006
View ImageWOODCRAFT Horizontal Wet Stone Grinder
Thanks,
Bill
In my opinion (and I've tried all these), the Worksharp 3000 is:
1) Faster
2)Simpler
3) Gives a better edge
than any of the ones in your post.
DJ
I have used both the Tormek and the WorkSharp. I am selling the Tormek. Not only is the WorkSharp quicker and easier to use, it results in a square end on the tool, which I often had trouble finding with the Tormek. Moreover, no jigs are needed when doing a touch-up on the blade while working. I only wish it was able to accomodate blades wider than 2" or had a jig for doing them on top at fixed angles. It is much faster than the Tormek in regrinding the primary bevel and does an excellent job of flattening the back. I now not only do a quick re-hone of the bevel while I am working but also touch-up the polish on the back at the same time.
How do you deal with the corners on a plane blade? Most peaple say they want a bit of a bevel here (more preasure on the edge as you hand sharpen) but if this gives you a true 90 degree then you have a sharp corner.
Doug Meyer
If you really want to round the corner (knock off the 90 degree) just do it manually on the top spinning disc. Should take 1.7 seconds and zero skill.
No different than what you'd do if sharpening on a stone or scarysharp paper.
Edited 10/10/2007 10:51 am ET by rwjiudice
I guess that make sence.
Doug
Bill,
The Tormek and Jet are quite different than the WorkSharp. The Jet and Tormek are jigs that hold other jigs which let you sharpen anything that can be sharpened. The Tormek with all of the attachments costs close to a grand. The Jet is a bit less expensive, but is the same type of thing. They have a stone wheel and a leather wheel, so you only get two different grits. They work slow, but it is hard to burn a blade with one. The WorkSharp has a number of different grits, because it is a sandpaper system. The worksharp is not nearly as versatile or expensive as the Jet or Tormek. With the Worksharp, you can do chisels from below the spinning disk in the automatic mode. You can also use the top of the spinning disk in manual mode.The other machine is a horizontal spinning stone which is water cooled. Woodcraft also sells a second stone. One is 400 grit and the other is 1000 grit. All sharpening is from above the disk, like it is done above the disk on the WorkSharp. It doesn't have a place to insert the chisel and get an "automatic" sharpening.I have not used the latter machine, but I heard that the local Woodcraft has not had any returned, which means that people who buy it, like it. It is also quite cheap, as I remember. So if you want "automatic', you need the WorkSharp. If you want versiatility, get the Tormek or the Jet. Of the two, I'd get the new Tormek. If you want a cheap, flexible system, then get that last machine, but it is more of a manual operation. I hope that helps. There is nothing like actually using the machines. Once you do that, things really become clear.Let me know what you come up with.
If you have more questions, just ask.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Two questions:1. Has anybody used both the WorkSharp and the Veritas Mark II Sharpening System? If so, what has been your experience in how they compare? The Veritas is considerably more expensive; does that equate to better quality and performance, or has WorkSharp taken this idea and made it work excellently at a lower price?2. How easy or hard is it to put the proper camber on plane blades with these machines?
Pardon my ignorance but..... what is "camber on plane blades" ?
Thanks
Pardon my ignorance but..... what is "camber on plane blades" ?
Camber is sharpening a plane blade so that instead of being perfectly square across, the edge has a slight bow, or camber. This helps take off more wood, and keeps the blade corners from digging into the wood.
This video at FW does a very nice job of explaining why you want it, how much camber to put in which kinds of planes, and how to create it when hand sharpening.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=29711
The video doesn't mention, BTW, that a rabbet or shoulder plane shouldn't have any camber since you want a perfectly flat edge up to the inside corner of the rabbet or tenon.
Great link! Thanks.
Mike D
Camber, or crowning has been used for ever. In the age of wooden planes it helped in avoiding choking the mouth, the shaving being weakest at the sides and curving as it emerges. Or that is what my Grandpappy told me when I asked.
The WorkSharp is "automatic" when you put the blade underneath the spinning disk. You get "straight" not cambered. I was just using the system an hour ago. I also tried to use the top of the spinning disk. That is not automatic. It takes practice. I didn't have enough time to really get used to it.I wouldn't use a machine to put a camber on a plane blade because they work too fast. That is why I mostly do sharpening by hand or with the little Veritas Mark II honing jig. If I want to camber a blade, I use the honing jig with the small roller. That lets you lean it to either side. I believe they used to be called the "Eclipse". Woodcraft sells them, but I don't know the brand. Lie Nielsen also sells them. They look identical to me.I have not used the Lee Valley Veritas "expensive" system that looks like the Worksharp. There is no "automatic" jigging as with the WorkSharp. It is all done from the top. FWW's tool guide issue evaluated it as being very good.That is about the limit of my experience.
Let me know what you decide.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Please don't laugh at the following dumb question. OK, laugh, but answer the question, anyway.
My two planes have 2 inch wide blades, so the worksharp will work for me at present.
If I want to add other planes to my tool chest (now that I can keep the irons sharp enough to use with the worksharp), will the 2 inch worksharp limit, limit what other useful planes that I might buy and sharpen with the worksharp.
Asked another way - I seem to remember seeing adds for 2 1/4 replacement irons. It would seem that the worksharp would be useless for planes that use a 2 1/4 inch iron. Is that such a small population of planes that it isn't a consideration?
Mike D
Edit: Never mind - I went to the leevalley site and looked up bench planes. I discover that any plane larger than a #4 has a wider iron.
So, is there a machine similar to the worksharp that will sharpen the wider irons?
Mike D
Edited 10/10/2007 12:18 pm ET by Mike_D
Mike,
The Jooltool came out a while back. When it did, I said "Soon there will be a Jooltool with a tool rest." That is what the Worksharp is. You can sharpen wide tools on the Worksharp "on the top of the spinning disk. It is just a more manual process.I believe I know what you really need. You need a Veritas Mark II honing jig. They are wonderful and you can get a perfect bevel, and a perfect microbevel using it. You just run it over sandpaper, oil stones, diamond stones or waterstones. Look it up. It is less than $60, and it is very versatile. It is much more versatile than the Worksharp. Nothing is as automatic as the Worksharp, but it is limited as to what it can take, as you figured out. There is no doubt that there will be a new Worksharp coming out in a while which will take care of more different blades. And such machines will continue to come out.Lee Valley has a sharpening machine that looks like the top of the Worksharp. Look in the latest FWW Tool Review book and it reviews it well.I hope that helps.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Thanks Mel,
Mike D
I was just about to drop ~$200 on sharpening equip for chisels/planes (I've never sharpened before):
(1) DMT duosharp
(2) Noton water stone
(3) Lee Valley sharpening jig (mark ...)
Could i simply buy the worksharp instead?
Thanks,
Brad
Brad,
Do yourself a favor and do some research into what is sharp first. On the Inet it'll cost you next to nothing. There ain't no miracle sharpening tool.
I would suggest starting with Scary Sharp. It's cheap and you'll learn a lot about what sharp really is. Google it and you will quickly learn what I'm getting at.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I think the Scary Sharp system is basically sharpening with sandpaper.
There was an article about it in the May 2006 (#184) issue of Fine Woodworking, page 64. Put Sharpening with Sandpaper in the FW Search Box and it should come up for you.For best results, you need sandpaper with very even grit. Tools for Working Wood, among other sources I'm sure, has the 3M Micro Adhesive Film.http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=ST-MAF.XX&Category_Code=
The scarysharp method will work. Although it takes a lot of time and skill.
Worksharp does it better in less time with almost no skill. Just my opinion. That's why I bought mine.
"Worksharp does it better in less time with almost no skill"
Did you just buy Worksharp stock or something? It may be fast, and it may be nearly idiot-proof, but I simply do not believe for an instant that it "does it better" if by that you mean it gets blades of any sort sharper than all the other methods of sharpening out there. Water stones, oil stones, scary sharp, etc. will all get blades literally razor (as in you cold shave with it) sharp.
- does it easily camber plane blades? (like any stones or scary sharp)
- does it easily put on micro bevels? (ditto)
- does it easily sharpen gouges? - other carving tools?
- does it easily sharpen lathe tools?
- does it quickly reshape a profile or regrind a bevel? (like and electric grinder?)
- how about electric planer blades (Tormek does that)
- how much are all those little disks of sandpaper costing you?
- how easy is it to switch between three or more grits in a single sharpening session?
There have been plenty of rotating disk grinders before. How does Worksharp differ from those? Does the fact that the grit farther from the center moves faster mess anything up?
In short, while this thing may be the cats meow, I'll wager it is not the be all end all.
Edited 10/10/2007 10:35 pm ET by Samson
Samson,
Loved your post.
You were describing the Mark II WorkSharp that will be out in a few years. The current model is very interesting. I was working at Woodcraft last night, and a guy came in and wanted to look at one. We have one which is open and ready to use. I invited him to try it on a Marples chisel that was lying around. He was amazed. He said that his chisels were never that sharp. And wow, he can put a secondary bevel on them too. And he can flatten the back in seconds. All of this is true. And he did it in less than two minutes with no experience. And he was thrilled, and he bought the machine.If you use the automated feature, which grinds to a given angle, that is done from "from the bottom". Here you can also grind to a different bevel, and add a microbevel. If you use the top of the spinning disk, where you flatten the backs, you can also change the shape of the blade, including cambering it. However, those latter things are done "by hand". When operating the system from the top, it is like the Veritas system. When the guy said he wanted to buy the system, I showed him the price of a set of replacement sandpaper, which was about $14 as I remember, and he was not shocked. I asked him if he would like to consider the Veritas Mark II honing device. He looked at it, and said no. I offered to teach him to hone by hand (no charge). He wasn't interestedHe left happy.Life is good.
For such a person, who has always used dull chisels, and who doesn't want to do it by hand or with a jig, and has the money for the sandpaper replacement sheets, this Worksharp is a godsend. You sort of hinted that it might not do as good a job as you could do by hand. You are absolutely right. However, I do not find that to be an interesting thought. More interesting is that with the Worksharp, he can get his chisels much sharper than he ever dreamed possible, and they will be plenty sharp for what he wants to do with them.Does that explanation help you get a handle on what this thing can and cant do? I certainly wouldn't buy one. I doubt you would. But for the guy who came into the store last night, I believe it was a good deal. But all of this is just my opinion. Have fun.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Mel,
If I bought the WorkSharp system, which extra discs or other options would you suggest to buy at the same time?
At Woodcraft, I still haven't used my "Birthday 10% Off" coupon, so it would be a good time for buying anything extra.
Thanks,
Bill
I would (and did) only get the model 3000. That comes with 2 tempered glass discs and a slotted disc. The base model comes only with a slotted disc and is not used for sharpening flat chisels or plane blades.
I originally purchased the base mdel, then quickly returned it for the 3000.
I bought extra sanding paper but havn't found the need for any yet. It comes with plenty to last a while. I'm an option freak but there's nothing more you will need or want that's not already included in the 3000.
I plan on using standard 2000 - 1200 grit sheets available cheaply enuf at any auto store (paint / body section). They are easy enuf to trim for use on the glass plates. Even the instructions in the box say how to do it.
Good luck. Let me (us) know how it works for you!
**Dick
Edited 10/11/2007 5:32 pm ET by rwjiudice
Bill,
whenever I buy a tool that requires sanding disks or belts or anything like that, I buy an assortment of them. I figure that I the thing is worth having, it is worth using -- a lot. So I would buy a packet of each of the sanding disks in the grits that you are interested in.Hope that helps.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
- does it easily camber plane blades? (like any stones or scary sharp)Yes
- does it easily put on micro bevels? (ditto)Yes
- does it easily sharpen gouges? - other carving tools?Yes
- does it easily sharpen lathe tools?Yes
- does it quickly reshape a profile or regrind a bevel? (like and electric grinder?)Yes
- how about electric planer blades (Tormek does that)No
- how much are all those little disks of sandpaper costing you? I use micro paper used in autobody finishing 400 - 1600 grit. cut to size. Pretty cheap
- how easy is it to switch between three or more grits in a single sharpening session? Very easy
There have been plenty of rotating disk grinders before. How does Worksharp differ from those? Does the fact that the grit farther from the center moves faster mess anything up? No. The andle of the chisel relative to the rotation of the disc is not significant enuf to have an effect regarding speed. (Earth travels faster in mph at the equator than in Boston. Any "I'll effect" ?)
In short, while this thing may be the cats meow, I'll wager it is not the be all end all.I don't ever recall saying it was the be all / end all. My orig post DID say it did a damn fine and fast job on chisels!
"Earth travels faster in mph at the equator than in Boston. Any 'I'll effect' ?"
Have you ever met anyone from Boston?
-Steve ;-)
"I don't ever recall saying it was the be all / end all."
You said Worksharp "does it better" than other methods, like scary sharp. I asked: Are you suggesting that it achieves sharper edges than other methods? I take you to be admitting that it does not, but if I misunderstand, please correct me and, by all means, tell me how you determined its superiority as far as achieving previously unknown levels of sharpness.
I see a good bit of shilling on these forums. I'm glad for new products and tools and can understand how folks can very legitimately be enthusiastic when they find products that work. That said, I don't want newbies to be misled by hyperbole.
Enjoy your sharp tools. I find they make woodworking much easier, more precise, and more enjoyable overall.
Cheers.
tell me how you determined its superiority as far as achieving previously unknown levels of sharpness.
Good grief! All I did was share my experience with the damn tool! Yes, I've done the scarysharp method and I figure after about 20 min gathering the necessary equipment, flat glass, water, sandpaper etc, then manually stroking a chisel back and forth without changing the bevel, then doing it to get a micro bevel, I could probably get a pretty sharp edge.
Or, walk over to the worksharp and turn it on, stick the chisel in, wait 10 seconds and get the same result. How did I determine it's superiority ? It's called feeling the edge! If you want subatomic scanning microscope pictures......... send me yours first!
I guarantee that I could hand you 2 chisels, one scary sharp, one worksharp and it would be a 50/50 chance you could identify each. Except the worksharp will have a better, smoother polished finish.
I'd rather cut wood than sharpen chisels.
As far as your wiseass comments about "shilling products"..... I made a simple post regarding my experience with a new (to me) product. The fact that it generated lots of discussions and questions is, in my mind, ok. That's part of info sharing on a forum.
I should only post those items I don't like????
The fact that it got a lot of post just tells me that a lot of us hate sharpening and anything that makes it simpler is a big hit with the masses.
I wonder if this is like the peaple that post on the what dovetail jig to buy and want you to hand cut them? Some peaple like to hand cut and some like to use a jig.
Not sure why we get the post like that but alas we do.
Doug
I see. Worksharp works better for you. It allows you to achieve sharper edges (and does so quickly and easily). Now I understand.
I never accused you of anything, nor have I made any wise #### comments. I asked for clarification of what you meant by "does it better." You've made clear that helps you do it better. That's great.
I just reread my post and I apologize for it's tone. I came off defensive and perhaps offensive and I am embarassed for that. I regret "attacking" you. Your points are valid and I'll try to temper myself better in the future.
I'll try not to be so sharp.... oooops! Hard NOT to be sharp with the worksharp!!! Sorry...really.
No worries here. I didn't mean to offend you either.
Thanks for the review and the discussion it has encouraged.
i just put in an order on amazon.com for one, so I'll post my review next week as well. I've never sharpened before, so you'll get a novice's take as well.
Now that the kerfluffle has dissipated, question for ya: which Puget Sound island are you keeping anchored in place? I'm over on Bainbridge. We have a Whidby and a Vashon member also I think.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Now that the kerfluffle has dissipated, question for ya: which Puget Sound island are you keeping anchored in place? I'm over on Bainbridge. We have a Whidby and a Vashon member also I think.,
I'm on San Juan Island. Over on the west side.
I'm embarrased to say, I've never been to the San Juans. Was in retail for over 13 years and never got away to do anything. You're entering the quiet time of the year, right? Enjoy! Nice to meet another Puget Sounder.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
If you do buy the Worksharp, be sure to get the 3000 model. It has the glass wheels. The cheaper one doesn't. I returnrd it for the 3000.
There are all kinds of way to arrive at sharp. The package you were about to buy is one I personally use and have found excellent in both the edge produced and the flexibility it provides to sharpen all sorts of tools beyond chisels and plane irons - like carving tools, spoke shaves, and draw knives, etc.
I've never used WorkSharp, but no doubt it works too.
There is no one right answer in sharpening. Choose a method and try it - learn it. Decide what it does well and what it lacks, if anything. You might then add more equipment to overcome what is lacking. You just need to start somewhere. Tormek, Worksharp, slow speed grinder, diamond stones, waterstones, oil stones, scary sharp - it all works, and there is lots of overlap.
I'm like you, never did much sharpening until desperation set in. Bought the worksharp and now I look forward to always having super sharp tools to work with!!!
Easy to use, small fooprint, nno water mess etc. So unless you are purist and need to see you a--- retentive face in the shiny metal, the worksharp is the best and least expensive power sharpner out there.
25589 - Leather Hone For honing a mirror finish on tools. Includes a 150mm tempered glass wheel, premium leather honing disk and chromium oxide honing compound.Looks like this available accessory for the Worksharp would help you see your face if you start missing it.
Has anyone compared the worksharp to the lap sharp? Mel? (btw I'm surprised there isn't a copyright infringement case brewing.)
Bakesale,
I am not familiar with the lapsharp so I just looked it up. It is much different than the WorkSharp. The Worksharp has a place to put the chisel in, bevel up, underneath the spinning disk, and it automatically puts the right bevel on the chisel. You can also work freehand above the spinning disk, like you do on the Lapsharp. The lapsharp looks to me much like the Lee Valley Veritas model, which FWW rated well recently. I don't see any legal problems between LapSharp and Worksharp, except if you think the names are too similar.If you do think the names are similar, wait til you hear the names that I have dreamed up for my next two restaurants:
- Radio Snack
- Merrill LunchWhat do you think? Wanna invest?
Have fun.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
I didn't buy the honing wheel with my WS 3000. But, after sharpening, I do use the MicroMesh 3600 grit and 6000 grit (included in the box) and I can see my reflection perfectly.
I think I could shave with the 1" chisel while looking into the 1 1/2" chisel!!! LOL
I doubt I would use the leather honing wheel. It's tough enuf to put my chisels to the wood after sharpening them to the degree I have now!!!!
They do look good! I gotta remember they're meant to be used!!!!
You said,
"They do look good! I gotta remember they're meant to be used!!!!"You misunderstand. The whole goal is sharpening, not using. Once you realize that, you can relax. :-)Congratulations on the WorkSharp. I have read all of your posts, and I believe you did the right thing for you. You will be happy. Don't let anyone talk you out of being happy. There are too many nay-sayers here. Just because it isn't right for them, doesn't mean it isn't right for you. MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Thanks Mel! As far as bing happy, trust me, I'm as happy as a clam at high tide!!
4 years ago I had a tumor removed from my "illium" (Small intestine near the stomach). Doc couldn't get it all and it is cancer. However, I'm getting (very expensive) treatments every month to 'control' it.
I told my Doctor I wanted NO prognosis... ie: 6 mo, 5 years etc. I can't and won't dwell on it. I feel fine and realize I could be hit by a car tomorrow!
Doc and I have an understanding. When time comes, he'll break it to me gently, something like "Dick, don't waste time flossing anymore"... Til then, I enjoy every day to it's fullest and I'm loving it!
I get up in the morning, look in the mirror and think "darn! fooled 'em again!!"
Wish everyone could / would enjoy life like I do!!!
Thanks
RW,
You are a man to be admired. You are taking the bull by the proverbial horns. I wish you luck and happiness and contentment.Grab for the gusto.
Your friend,
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
To say the least, I was intriqued by this thread and the Work Sharp concept. I own a manufacturing plant and am involved in part manufacturing for the primary automotive industry. I have many opportunities to review machinery and promotions for why I should buy a certain type of machinery. I have always subscribed to the principal that you buy a machine to do a certain type of job. You do not purchase for future "what if's". The Work Sharp advertises itself as a special purpose tool to sharpen chisels and plane blades at 4 pre-set angles up to 2" in width.
I started in life (after college) by serving a 4 year apprentice to become a journeyman carpenter. I left the trade in 1989 to start my manufacturing business. Through trials and tribulations, my immediate family and I are quite comfortable to now live a modest life and afford a few spur of the moment extravagances. The Work Sharp is one of those! I made this purchase in spite of my ability to sharpen without the use of jigs, etc., using primarily oilstones. Once in a while I'll re-try a waterstone or two, mainly because my wife bought me a couple, but my preference is natural oilstones.
First impressions? It took me longer to open and unpack the box, give the instructions a quick review, than it did to cut a new 20 degree bevel on a Sorby 3/8" paring chisel. This includes retrieving a piece of silicon carbide 2000 grit paper, cutting it to fit the glass wheel and spraying adhesive on it (I didn't want to "muck up" the fine mesh paper that came with the machine). I put a mirror polish that was "sharper" than it looked in a couple of minutes, using the 400 and 1000 grit paper supplied with the machine and my piece of 2000 grit. No heating up of the tool, no fuss and no muss! It pared some cherry end grain flawlessly.
Will the machine do the job it says it will? Most definitely! Is this machine for everyone? I would say no, as first, you can only go to 2" wide, and are held to 4 pre-set angles (although I'be already figured how to override both of those constraints). Will I give up my oilstones? Definitely not! How would I sharpen my spokeshaves or my 4-1/2 and 5-1/2 blades! Will I use this machine? Most definitely, for what I bought it for. As I said it is a specific purpose machine, and going into buying it, the consumer should recognize that! You don't have to use the Work Sharp paper, so that gives you much more flexibility in the selections, as well as lowering that cost.
Those working in the woodworking field as full time professionals already have their methods established, but for those weekend warriors, that don't balk at the price tag, this machine does its job very well.
T.Z.
Thanks for your input. I have the same feelings. Yes, I too can use stones, sandpaper, scarysharp etc, but I only did so maybe twice a year when I was bored.
As you said, a machine that can do quickly, what takes you longer, is cost effective. (Not to mention the fun it is to see a polished finish on a sharp edge in only a minute).
I will never have to "settle" for using a chisel that needs sharpening "when I get time to do it".
A previous poster suggested I was "shilling" for worksharp. All I was doing was sharing my experience with it. I have many other gizmo's that are long on claims and short on delivery. They take up shelf space in my shop. The worksharp will never be more than a few feet away and won't get covered with dust.
And, don't EVEN mention the number of "miracle" golf clubs in my garage..... (in my garage - NOT in my golf bag!)
Thanks for your input. That's why I read these forums.
Update to my earlier post. I've spent the past several hours "toying" with the machine and the major shortcoming I have encountered is the pre-set bevel angles. The machine is perfect if you are beginning with a bevel the same as the pre-set, however, if you free-hand as I mainly do, you know your angles are never right on.
In spite of that, I still feel the machine does an excellent job of doing what it says it will do. I cannot give an opinion of the longevity of the machine--for the most part it feels solid, but there are a few quibbles: the blade width adjustment is a bit coarse; the use of plastic for the retaining nut seems just cheap, as does the plastic/composite bar on top of the disc and the plastic around the disc.
All in all, I do believe the price point is high: If the machine was in the $125 to $160 range including the supplied accessories, my opinion is it would be a instant hit with the weekend warriors and hobbyists. The paper, etc. that you might purchase later is pricey also.
Will I use this tool three or six months from now? Don't know yet, but it is very convenient if your bevel angles fit the pre-sets! I can't recall the warranty period, but you can bet that if I get close to the expiration and I feel anything isn't up to snuff, it will go back to the mfg.
I also failed to mention that I have no connection with the manufacturer or any vendor of the machine.
Tony, can you share your thoughts on how to override the preset bevel angles?Thanks, bww
To overide both width issues and preset angle issues would involve making a "dummy" block to be affixed on the back of the plane iron. The block would have to fit inside of the 2" limitation and would need to be paralell to one side of the blade. To get a different angle, the block would have to be tapered. Thickest edge of block would probably have to stay less than 1/4". Please bear in mind that I haven't tried this, and am just speculating.
The next thing that could be done, would be to build a jig to attach to the top bar. It would swivel on the bar to the desired angle and then be tightened with a set screw. Again, the jig would be similar to the sled underneath the jig, and would need one side square to the bar. The blade would index on the back (different than the sled below the disc which indexes on the front).
This ain't a bad machine, but I do have questions about the longevity of it with frequent use. Also, as I have previously stated, the price point is a bit high. I feel Work Sharp should have priced this similar to their Drill Doctors.
Today I'm ordering some ceramic discs for the machine. A good low cost source for getting sanding discs (and paper) is "Supergrit" (or Red Hill Corporation) located in Gettysburg, PA, at (800) 822-4003. Give them a call to get a catalog. I have no connection to Supergrit or to Work Sharp.
In closing, buyer's remorse has yet to sink in with the purchase of Work Sharp. For me, that usually happens pretty quickly, with first impressions of when what I have bought will not do what I thought it would. In the case of Work Sharp, it does exactly what it says it will do. As I have stated in previous posts, this is not a tool for the professional, but is rather for us weekend warrior/hobbyists who can only grab a few hours, a few nights per week, or maybe a Saturday.
Tony,
Thanks for the reply. I just received my worksharp yesterday and was able to get an old craftmans 1/4" chisel reasonable sharp. I wanted to try out on a junker chisel vs one of my "nice" new irwin/marples i just picked up. I tried to start w/ 1/2" craftsman and couldn't get the face of the chisel flat in a reasonable time - this is a chisel issue though.
I'll try out on my irwin this weekend and provide feedback. So far, this is a good buy for me. first time I've ever sharpened and chisel seems sharp. I get hours per week at most, so I don't want to spend those hours sharpening vs woodworking. $200 is a little steep, but I'm starting to play w/ chisels which i've never done before. So, likely money well spent.
More to come, bww
I've tried playing with the built-in rod and not had much success. It was hard to get a consistent angle. I am in the process of modifying a LV grinding jig to see if it is better. Will post more as I reach a conclusion.
With built in angles of 20, 25, 30 and 35 degrees, what particular bevel angle are you trying to achieve?
I am not trying to change the fixed angles, since I am quite happy with the ones available. I am interested in dealing with my plane blades that are larger than 2". I have played with a number of things to hold them on the bar sharpen on the top, but find that I have trouble holding the blades steady enough to get an even, square reproducible edge.
Got it. Thanks
To you guys who have bought the Work Sharp: how noisy is your unit? Also, how smoothly do the discs run?
No real discernable noise. Quiet as a small fan.
How smoothly does the disc run? Don't understand the question.... Discs run "smoothly".... ie: flat and quiet.
Your posts indicate you have a WS. Are you having problems? Like what problems?
My WS is as quiet as a flashlite (Grin) !
Edited 10/18/2007 10:04 am ET by rwjiudice
Edited 10/18/2007 10:05 am ET by rwjiudice
Edited 10/18/2007 10:08 am ET by rwjiudice
Not really having problems, but the motor does sound louder than a fan. The disc also seems to have a bit of "run-out". I was going to measure this and call Work Sharp. These issues are why I've felt the machine may have some longevity issues.
My new worksharp disk has a "bit" of runout, too. And goes "zink, zink, zink" when it runs, but ---
Wow! I sharpened up my little pocket plane with it a minute ago, and is it ever sharp! I haven't been able to cut shavings that thin since my old Dad was sharpening the irons.
Of course, he used an old, lumpy oil stone that any of us would throw away, and got great results, anyway, in no time a'tall - but not me.
Mostly happy with my new worksharp.
Next up, that old Stanley #4 that's been laughing at my paltry efforts at sharpening.
Mike D
EDIT #1: O.K. There's a definite learning curve here, but now my old #4 is really, really sharp, too. Then I had to clean up the breaker, 'cause the shavings are now thin enough to get under it's edge.
This is actually bad. I had my eye on a new Lie-Nielsen #4 that would have surely upgraded my planing skills, but now.....darn. Maybe I just won't say anything about this to SWMBO.
Edit #2: One thing to watch out for, is that the instructions suggest that when you are flattening the back of the iron, that you sort of "tip" it onto the wheel so that you won't radius off the back of the leading edge. Being just a tiny bit obsessive, I did that faithfully. Too faithfully, apparently, because that results in little new-moon or sickle shaped gouges in the back of the iron where the edge of the new, sharp abrasive & wheel first contact the iron. If you haven't done this yet, a word to the wise - a very light hand is wanted as you "tip" to flat onto the disk.
Mike D
Edited 11/4/2007 9:00 pm ET by Mike_D
Edited 11/4/2007 9:01 pm ET by Mike_D
What you may want to try is screwing the cap iron at a 90 degree angle to the bevel, to register the blade on the top of the disc. You could go a bit further, and make a jig, such as Derek Cohen did (see the thread in the Handtool section about "The secret to cambering blades").
I like the concept of the Work Sharp, however I'm afraid that those of us who purchased first generation machines, may see subsequent releases come out that permit variable angles and wider blade widths! I also think the price will probably drop significantly.
Why should the generational thing be different than for my computer, MP3 player, cell phone, digital camera and TV the day after I finally buy one?
Took a look at their on-line catalog (Supergrit) and couldn't determine which ceramic disc you mentioned. I've also got a WS3000 and like the quick, easy, foolproof way it dresses blades. Let us know about the new disc.
Joe
I ordered a couple yesterday, when they arrive AND IF THEY WORK, I'll post all the appropriate information. They were on page 8, at the top.
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