I read Doyle Pugmire’s comment on Jeff Mack Woodturning: Woodturning A Goblet with a Twist (Double Helix) that can be viewed at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bl45nkMaYvY&list=WL&index=22 “…When measuring out for the twists, I made it for six one inch increments lengthwise and measured the circumference to be 10 1/2 inches divided it by six to get the distances between squares. This ended up giving me 3 twists instead of two that you did (don’t ask me why).”
Is there a ratio that one should use to determine how many longitudinal (end-to-end) lines/sections vs radial (circumference) lines/sections to use in order to have an esthetically nice looking final project? I am a “fairly new to intermediate” level woodturner and I would like my next project to be a barley twist candle holder…I haven’t decided if the total height will be 6″ or 8″. Let’s say the total height will be 6″ with a diameter of 1.875″ (47.63mm). Having a base height of approximately 1.4″ (35.56mm) and a top section height of approximately 0.9″ (22.86mm) will leave me a middle section of approximately 3.7″ (93.98mm) to make my barley twist…these are approximate measurements from a drawing/picture that I have. How do I determine (1) how many longitudinal lines/sections?, (2) how many radial lines/sections? (3) if it will be a double, triple, etc. helix that I end up with? I have included a picture of a similar candle holder that I would like to make (NOT the goblet from Jeff Mack). Any advice from Jack or any experienced turner would be greatly appreciated. I am new/intermediate but would really like to challenge myself for my next project. Thanks in advance.
Fine Woodworking Recommended Products
French Curves
An essential for drawing and designing with curves.
DeWalt 734 Planer
One of only two machines with a cutterhead perfectly parallel to its beds, the DeWalt 734 is a very good planer. Knife changes overall were straightforward, but access is difficult because you must remove a Phillips-head screw from under the dust shroud—not an easy task. The dust port on the back of the machine has a 2-1/2-in.-dia. opening but can be hooked up to a 4-in.-dia. hose. Connected to a dust collector, it did an excellent job gathering chips. And because the port exits to the left of the machine, the hose is never in the way of exiting boards. The top of the machine is flat, making it a good place to stack boards between passes.
Pfiel Chip Carving Knife
Great to use as a marking knife for laying out joinery and easy to sharpen.
3M Pro Grade Sandpaper
This sandpaper is clog resistant and has a material on the back that prevents it from slipping. Great for sanding blocks.
Delta 26‑2251 Miter Saw
The Delta was another model that you can locate close to a wall. It employs dual articulating arms that save space while yielding good, wide cuts provided you use good technique. The saw is tied for the second-shortest overall footprint. The Delta’s ergonomics were a treat too. Thanks to convenient placement and ease of use, the locks for the miter and bevel stops were superb. Its LED results in a nice, accurate shadow. The dust collection was just slightly lower than the Makita’s, but still quality for a miter saw.
Replies
There are a couple of forums devoted to specifically to woodturning.You may find your answers there.
There’s a good how-to in this 2007 article:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/12/15/barley-twist-candlesticks
Thank you very much for sending me the article…it helped a lot.