Replies

1. 
   ak | Nov 18, 2009 01:13am | #1

   Well, it sounds like there might be too much play in the unglued mortise and tenon joint for the rail. It does need to be able to expand and contract but it must be a very snug fit for it (the rail) to really do it's job well.

   You can slide a thin piece of veneer in the mortise and tenon joint if it's loose, or if it's yet to be assembled, then glue a thin piece to the tenon and let it dry before assembly.

   Once the joint is secured, the metal guides won't skew the drawer at all because the joinery for the rail is nice and snug.

   I really hope this helps.

   Inspiring Your Passionate Pursuit of the Craft

1. 
   giraffelt | Nov 18, 2009 06:27pm | #5

   AK

   thanks for the response. I have only built the case so far and am at the point of "engineering" the internals so my question was of a design nature not a how to fix it question.

2. 
   Napie | Nov 18, 2009 07:24am | #2

   Drawer slides like those are really meant for cases constructed from sheet goods where movement is not an issue, hence no elongated slots (kitchens, built-ins, etc.).   It’s just my opinion but solid casework really calls for wood on wood drawer hanging.  

1. 
   giraffelt | Nov 18, 2009 06:31pm | #6

   Napie,

   Now that I am into it I agree with your opinion. unfortunately I was asked to used the soft closing slides. even at the discussion time I was some what hesitant but foolishly thought I would be able to figure it out.

    

3. 
   ring | Nov 18, 2009 10:36am | #3

   Several possibilities -

   1. Make the cabinet sides using frame-and-panel construction (instead of solid) and attach slides to frame members only.
   2. Make a wooden strip about 1 1/2" x 1/2" x the slide length, which you let into a shallow dado across the side member. Attach the slide firmly to the strip, but the strip gets attached firmly in the front of the dado only. It is therefor indifferent to the expansion/contraction of the solid side.
   3. Make the casework of double-wall construction. The inside is veneer ply and the outside is solid. They connect to each other only at the face frame in the front of the cabinet.

   I've used all these techniques and prefer the last in many instances. But it depends on the overall plan and aesthetics of the piece.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1

1. 
   giraffelt | Nov 18, 2009 06:25pm | #4

   David,

   thanks for your response. option 2 seems to be my best bet. how would you suggest I handle the internal vertical divider. I am thinking of using plywood in a dado top and bottom and also just anchored at the front. that way the two sides of the slide remain fixed in relation to each other. does that make sense?

1. 
   ring | Nov 18, 2009 10:08pm | #9

   Yes it makes sense. I usually don't mix materials that way - if I'm making a solid wood carcase then it's all solid, and if I'm making a double-wall construction (my 3rd option above) then all the interior is ply. But it's just a habit of keeping it simple for my already challenged brain.David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1

4. 
   Samson | Nov 18, 2009 06:39pm | #7

   Buy a small round (rat tail) file and elongate the middle and rear holes in the slides.

5. 
   James_Buxton | Nov 18, 2009 06:48pm | #8

   One way to do it without modifying the slides is to use the rear-mount brackets.  I've used ones with Blum undermounts, but I'm pretty sure most manufacturers sell the same thing.  The bracket has a sliding interface to the slide, and allow the front-back dimension of the chest to change without stressing the slide.