Replies

1. 
   SantaFeTom | Oct 07, 2010 11:03am | #1

   Thin it out, rub it in

   I have great good luck using regular poly thinned 50/50. I don't know how that thickness compares to wipe on poly though. Because it is so thin, I really rub in the first coat like I would an oil finish. I will even double back on the areas that are absorbing the most. For the subsequent coats I tend to wipe it on with the grain but overlap quite a bit to be sure I have uniform coverage. Once again because it is so thin and flows so well, there are no  signs of overlap.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Oct 07, 2010 11:36am | #2

   Wiping on an oil based finish is a process very different from a brushing process.  Merely substituting a rag for a brush will not result in the benefits attributable to a wipe-on process.  Wiping on a thick film using long strokes will result in the same problems that occur with brushing.  Too thick a film will lead to runs and sags.  There can be lines between prior applied areas and newly applied areas.  Use the correct wipe on process will virtually eliminate all the problem associated with brushing and, in most cases, will give you a nicer looking finish.

   Here is something that should help.It was written by an early developer and advocate for the process years ago and it has worked well for many.

   QUOTE

   There are a number of suggested application regimens that are totally subjective. The number of coats in a given day, the % of cut on various coats, which coat to sand after, when to use the blade and a whole host of other practices are all minor differences between finishers. There are some things that I consider sacred when applying a wipe-on finish.

   First, you can use any full strength oil based clear finish.  Polyurethane varnish or non-poly varnish is fine.

   If you are making your own wipe-on the mix is scientific - thin. I suggest 50/50 with mineral spirits because it is easier to type than any other ratio and easy to remember.  Some finish formulators have jumped on the bandwagon and you can now get "wipe on" finish pre-mixed. If you use a pre-mixed, thinning is generally not necessary.  But making your own is cheaper and you know what's in it.

   The number of coats in a given day is not important. Important is to apply a wet coat with an applicator and merely get it on. Think of a 16 year old kid working as a busboy at Denny's you have sent over to wipe off a table. Sort of rub/swirl the the material on like you would if you were applying a paste wax.  Don't attempt any straight strokes.  The applicator should be wet but not soaked.  The applicator can be a non-embossed paper towel shop towel, half a T-shirt sleeve or that one sock left after a load of washing. Once applied,leave it alone. The surface should not be glossy or wet looking and, if applied correctly, there should be no "brush stroke" type marks.  If you have missed a spot, ignore it - you will get it on the next coat. If you try and fix a missed spot you will leave a mark in the finish.

   Timing for a second coat involves the pinkie test. Touch the surface with your pinkie. If nothing comes off you are ready for another coat. If was tacky 5 minutes ago but not now, apply your next coat just as you applied the previous coat. Remember, you are wet wiping, not flooding. After applying the second coat, let it fully dry for 48 hours.  Using 320 paper and a sanding block lightly sand the surface flat.  Now, begin applying more coats. Do not sand between coats unless you have allowed more than 24 hours to elapse since the prior coat.  The number of coats is not critical - there is no critical or right number to apply.  For those who need a rule, four more coats on non-critical surfaces or six more coats on surfaces that will get abraded seems to work.

   After your last coat has dried at least over night you will have boogers in the surface. You should not have marks in the surface because you ignored application flaws. You may have dust, lint and, if you live in Texas, bug legs. Use a utility knife blade at this point. Hold it between your thumb and forefinger, near the vertical, and gently scrape the surface. Gentle is the important word - no harder than you would scrape your face. If you start scraping aggressively you will leave small cut marks in the surface. After you have scraped to the baby butt stage gently abrade the surface with 320 dry paper or a gray ScotchBrite. Clean off the surface. Now, leave the area for two hours and change your clothes.  Apply your last coat with a bit more care than the previous coats and walk away.

   An anal person is going to have a tough time with this process. Missed spots have to be ignored. Wet wipe, don't flood. Scraping to babies butt smooth means scraping no harder than scraping a babies butt. Ignoring any of these will leave marks that are tough to get out. Getting these marks out requires some aggressive sanding to flatten out the surface and starting over.

   Jim Kull

   END QUOTE

   Finally, It works better to use a gloss varnish for all coats except the last.  The flatteners in semi-gloss and satin tend to rapidly fall out of suspension when the finish is highly thinned.  If you want a non-gloss finish, use it only on the final coat or two and be sure to stir the material frequently or you will end up with cloudy streaks.

   Learn the process by finishing some scrap material.  As always, never let a real project be your learning curve.

    

1. 
   jointerman | Oct 07, 2010 08:43pm | #3

   Didn't quite work for me

   I tried to follow the above directions about a month back. It was going okay, but somewhere along the way, I ended up with a soaked rag and ended up with sever swirl marks and streaks. I'm guessing that I should have tried to go with much much less finish when wiping?

2. 
   Eef | Oct 08, 2010 02:34pm | #4

   howie,

   thanks for taking the time to type all that out.  i have b-marked it and intend to try it.

   eef

3. 
   Gretchen | Oct 09, 2010 10:15am | #5

   I have used wipe on (NOT rub on) varnish (not poly either) for refinishing for many many years. It is a foolproof finish, and Jim Kull's directions are excellent.  It boils down to  dip your rag into the diluted varnish and wipe it on your project. I find it easiest to wipe with the grain. Wipe until there is a layer on the wood, and none is "standing".  It should just be smooth and look "dry"--it isn't dry, but it certainly doesn't "glisten".  Move on to the next part needing finish.  If you miss a spot, don't worry about it--you're coming back in a half hours. I do look at the surface at an oblique angle after a couple of coats in order to not "miss".