Replies

1. 
   knuts | Jul 23, 2008 05:56am | #1

   I've been using wipe-on for years because it's foolproof. And that's a good thing for me! 3-4 coats wiped on like you're dusting. Knock the nibs off with 0000.

   What I like most though is; no runs, no errors.

   Joe

2. 
   Henley | Jul 24, 2008 02:19pm | #2

   I'll second the wipe-on poly.
   I haven't figured out how to mess it up yet.

   It probably doesn't protect as well, but pick your uses
   wisely and you should have problems.

1. 
   Gretchen | Jul 24, 2008 02:33pm | #3

   It is a wonderful finish, and protects equally as well as any, IF you put on enough applications. Three or four will only equal one application of brush on and is not nearly enough for a final finish. I usually apply 8 for top surfaces that will receive more wear and at least 6 for sides.

   And once again, I will mention to a newbie to wipe on, that the first 2 or 3 coats will not be at all attractive or indicative of the finish you will attain. But persevere and you will see the magic happen.

   One mantra I have read for wipe on is to apply coats until it looks just right, and then put on one more.

   Also for a newbie, you can apply as many as 3 coats in one day. It should be "dry" but not very dry before applying the next coat.Gretchen

1. 
   jrogerh | Jul 24, 2008 08:20pm | #5

   Thanks for the advice.  In wiping on the finish, can you use circular or cross grain motion like you were putting on a coat of wax? You don't have to end an application using staight wipes in the long rain direction do you (like "tip-off" with a brush)?

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 24, 2008 11:34pm | #10

   >> In wiping on the finish, can you use circular or cross grain motion like you were putting on a coat of wax?The best description I have seen is to wipe on the thinned varnish using the same technique as the kid from Denny's who comes over to wipe off you table. Just any type of motion although I generally use a circular motion. If you have not over-saturated your wiper with finish, it makes no real difference what motion you use. Just don't go back over it if you miss a spot. Let it dry as is. You'll get it with the next application.Howie.........

1. 
   Gretchen | Jul 25, 2008 12:43am | #11

   I know the general prescribed method of wipe-on is as Howard says, but I usually try to stay with the grain.  I sand that way, so I finish that way!!  but I know I can sort of "polish" if I see a "holiday". You really would be hard pressed to mess up a wipe on finish. DO use a good soft cotton applicator, or non-embossed paper toweling. Embossed paper toweling CAN mess it up!

   I'm glad Steve filled in "you don't have to use poly". It is my mantra, since I've never used it. Non-poly varnishes offer a depth of "in the wood" look for furniture that poly doesn't approach.Gretchen

2. 
   Henley | Jul 24, 2008 11:05pm | #8

   Hey didn't I just see you over at Cooktime ?
   thanks for the advise.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 24, 2008 04:00pm | #4

   I'll second what Gretchen says. 

   Wipe-on doesn't have to be a polyurethane varnish, it can also be a alkyd or phenolic resin varnish, avoiding the issues that come with consumer grade polyurethane varnishes.  Also, it doesn't have to come from the manufacturer as a wipe-on, you can thin any oil based varnish to wiping consistency. 

   Also, to add to what Gretchen has said, when you put on a group of three, separated only by enough time to be dry to the touch, you don't have to sand between those coats (and probably couldn't without clogging the paper almost instantly.)  But after each group of three you do need to give it a full curing time as if it were a brushed on coat, and you do also need to sand between each set, just as if it were a brushed on coat. 

   There are big advantages of doing wipe on in "sets", since the coats within each set are applied before the next has cured the varnish can cross link across those coats, avoiding witness lines when rubbing out.   

   Edited 7/24/2008 9:03 am ET by SteveSchoene

1. 
   jrogerh | Jul 24, 2008 08:22pm | #6

   "...it can also be a alkyd or phenolic resin varnish...".

   Would you have a recommended brand name?

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 24, 2008 10:56pm | #7

   Pratt & Lambert 38, McCloskey Heirloom or the Cabot Varnish (not Cabot polurethane) that is replacing the McCloskey) are alkyd varnishes and also are made with Soya oil instead of linseed oil for less yellowing. 

   On the darker side, with Phenolic resin, Behlen Rockhard or Waterlox either Satin or Gloss, or the Original/Sealer which is already thinned to a good wiping consistency. 

2. 
   Henley | Jul 24, 2008 11:08pm | #9

   Good post.
   I was assuming, the OP was talking about the poly's. Which
   given enough coats might be durable. To me they are generally
   sold in the big box stores to people who just want a fast and
   easy finish.