Replies

1. 
   MBerger | Nov 14, 2006 09:11pm | #1

   Hi Bob,

   I've only done one project that required steam bending but my experience might help.

   - Try steaming the workpiece longer.

   - Make sure that the grain is aligned properly to the bend. I found best results when the bend was along the flat-sawn face, not the quarter-sawn face.

   - Choose a workpiece with long continuous grain and no grain runout. Grain runout is when the grain ends midway along the length of the workpiece. The spot where the grain ends is a prime target for a breaking point. Knots and voids can also be delicate spots.

   I've never tried the steel band technique but I hear it works. The idea is to support the outer surface of the workpiece as you bend it around a curved mold. The orger of parts goes: curved mold, workpiece, steel strap.

   Matt Berger
   Fine Woodworkign

1. 
   bob63 | Nov 14, 2006 10:46pm | #3

   thanks for the reply Matt, I'm sure your info will be helpful.  As for the grain, a continuous arm bow has two bends on each end one is 90 degrees to the other. bob

2. 
   VeriestTyro | Nov 14, 2006 09:42pm | #2

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1&p=45866

   Check it out.

3. 
   jako17 | Nov 15, 2006 04:12am | #4

    As has been said use steel bands .Also select the wood carefully straight grain etc.Use riven wood rather than sawn to get maximum long grain.I usually limber the wood flexing it slightly round the form Then put it back in the steambox for 10 mins or so.Remember you only have 45secs or so to bend it and get it on the form, so preparation and an assistant is vital the first time.