Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Apr 19, 2008 09:41pm | #1

   Is there any reason you can't use a handplane to trim the protuding jambs until they are approximately flush with the wall? By using a plane, you'll get a reasonably straight edge, free of bumps and dips.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   study | Apr 19, 2008 09:51pm | #2

   Yea I thought of that to. I was even thinking of using a power planer. I was just hoping for an easy fix,Tnks.

1. 
   Henley | Apr 19, 2008 10:40pm | #3

   I deal with that all the time.
   Go with the block plane. Set it to take very little and
   take your time.
   I'd avoid the power plane- to aggressive. PS

   Probably obvious but, Watch the corners.

1. 
   hartlandboy | Apr 19, 2008 10:49pm | #5

   Agree completely with Henley.  Power planer is far to agressive and far to large a footprint to stay close to your jamb.  As a renovator and as Henley has stated the block plane is your best friend and is pretty much a given in this situation.  Which is not uncommon.

   Gary

1. 
   study | Apr 19, 2008 11:50pm | #6

   Thanks guys, will try it Mon.Kind of knew the answer,but thought maybe there might be an easy fix.Thanks again.

2. 
   Henley | Apr 20, 2008 12:08am | #7

   That is an easy fix.

3. 
   lwilliams | Apr 20, 2008 05:31am | #10

   Henley's right, it's an easy fix with a plane. I spent a lot of years as a finish carpenter and expected to plane down window jambs.I wouldn't get near an expensive to replace window jamb with that abortion of a router jig. I'll bet, if you try it, you'll spend more time repairing just one window jamb than it'll take to plane down all of them you have to do. I have no doubt you will be repairing jambs if you try the router. I've thought for years it should be illegal for a sheetrock hanger to own a router and I know a lot of electricians who feel the same way. I've had to fix quite a few window and door jambs that have been damaged by routers. The repairs will be difficult and in a highly visible location.

2. 
   BruceS | Apr 19, 2008 10:48pm | #4

   Just this week I had the same problem,  Used a smooth plane fix the problem.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

3. 
   JohnWW | Apr 20, 2008 12:29am | #8

   You can easily build a trim base for a router that will work much better than a plane. Here's a link to a commercially made one that makes it clear how they are set up:

   http://www.betterleytools.com/page_13.htm

   John White

4. 
   oldusty | Apr 20, 2008 02:03am | #9

       Sometimes you can cut relief on the back side of the casing , depends on how much you need .

             We always want the jamb sticking out a bit from the drywall as opposed to shy or flush , the casing to jamb joint is tight .

                                    dusty

   
   

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   Edited 4/19/2008 7:06 pm ET by oldusty

5. 
   lwilliams | Apr 20, 2008 06:14pm | #11

   I've been thinking more about my reaction to that router jig. It was designed for working on counter top banding at a convenient height and where you could possibly manage something that out of balance. Working on a wall and probably on a step ladder is something entirely different.

   I am curious about your windows. If your walls are 2x4 then who ever installed the windows didn't have much choice. If they're 2x6 walls, jamb extensions were likely installed after the windows. Jamb extensions are relatively easy to get pretty flush with the walls if their scribed before they're installed. Did the contractor just install them without fitting them? If you've got jamb extensions then you most likely have nails in the edge you need to trim. If you've got some casing nail heads in the edges, make sure and set them below where you'll be planing.

6. 
   jako17 | Apr 20, 2008 06:31pm | #12

   We have installed miles of casing and have found that a really sharp block plane run at an angle is quick, forgiving and simple to use.Even at an angle the block plane won't e long enough to mark the wall beyond the trim.We typically put a 2 deg bevel on the edge of jambs if they don't need extensions so it is even easier to trim'

7. 
   colebearanimals | Apr 21, 2008 02:59am | #13

    

       Rabbet out the inside edge of the casing the same amount the jamb protrudes from the sheetrock ( it probably varies so take an average). The jamb can be trimmed with a handplane but I've found this takes a lot longer to be accurate.

                                                                        Paul

1. 
   jako17 | Apr 21, 2008 09:18am | #14

   Surely it depends on the edge detail on the casing and the amount of projection of the jamb wether rabitting messes up the the look of the casing.Secondly even the rabate would have to be tuned as it is only an average.Remember cabinetmakers generally make very slow trim carps.To much fussing and not enough product!

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

1. 
   oldusty | Apr 21, 2008 05:33pm | #15

   jako ,  Very true what you say about cabinetmakers as trim carpenters we fuss way too much over things that won't matter .

        I say don't hire a cabinetmaker to hang your doors and don't hire a finish / trim carpenter to build your cabinets .

        A good finish carp can hang 2 or 3 doors to my one , but the story changes when we talk furniture or cabinets with most they are out of their area of expertise and best to stick to what they are best at in most cases with few exceptions , that goes for cabinetmakers too .

               dusty