Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 14, 2006 02:23pm | #1

   For varnish, especially polyurethane varnish, sanding between coats can be necessary for adhesion.  (There may be a no sand "window" in which coats will chemically link, but beyond that sanding is needed.  This is one reason why it is particularly important to read the label and other technical data sheets provided by manufacturers.  Most problems could be avoided by reading.)  Evaporative finishes, shellac and lacquer, will bond to prior coats so sanding isn't needed except to keep defects down.

   Sanding does remove dust nibs and other defects in the finish so they are easier to remove in the final rub out.  Sanding also helps the over all finish remain smooth and level, so it does improve the final appearance, since with reactive and coalescing finishes you risk "witness lines" if you cut through the last coat while rubbing out--this means that the previous coats must be level enough that you can sand the last coat level without cutting through. 

   
   

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   Edited 12/14/2006 6:25 am ET by SteveSchoene

2. 
   observer | Dec 15, 2006 01:29am | #2

   If your finish is going on level, a simple light wipe with 320 grit no-clog automotive paper will both lightly scuff the surface for adhesion and remove the dust and grit trapped in the previous coat while drying. Make sure you wipe it down well after to remove all the grit from sanding.

   Use a block and be very careful near edges that you don't cut through the dried coat.

3. 
   ptu | Dec 15, 2006 07:27pm | #3

   I found that using a thin scraper sharpened/burred nicely, drug softly over the surface, will clean off any dust particles and level the surface well. Wiped down after leaves a smooth clean surface, and no dust.

4. 
   PCWoodworks | Dec 15, 2006 09:17pm | #4

   I have been following your posts on the Scrabble board and it looks great, I've had that  idea in the back of my mind for years. Great Job!

    

    I wouldn't spray or brush any film finish on the board . It will pool in the corners of each square an will be a nightmare to get level.

   In my opinion what this needs is a rubbed in blo or tung finish. It will be easily renewable by the customer and can even be a source of pride. If they are really into Scrabble they will enjoy caressing and caring for their board ;) Just let them know that this is pretty standard for high end woodwork and  they will get the satisfaction of renewing the looks of their prize possession every 6 months to a year.  Leave them a mason jar of whatever oil you use upon delivery with a use and care card.

   I also would suggest that the tiles be coated with an oil/wax mixture and buffed to an appropriate sheen. You don't want the finish to crack and peel on these due to rough handling in the bag. And again , easily renewable by the customer.

    You can drastically reduce the opportunity for dust selttling on the board by using a big Rubbermaid or Tupperware tub to cover the board after each coat, poke holes in the side  to aid evaporation and don't' allow any excessive air movement around it.

    

   Good luck

1. 
   Gretchen | Dec 16, 2006 03:31pm | #5

   Interesting idea about the tub for protection. He could really just lift it up off the level of the table with a shim or something rather than the holes.Gretchen

1. 
   PCWoodworks | Dec 16, 2006 05:54pm | #6

   D'oh!  

   Why didn't I think of that? It's funny how sometimes the obvious evades me sometimes.I guess I just  overthunk that that one! Now what do I do with my tubs with holes in them?

   Edited 12/16/2006 9:56 am ET by PCWoodworks

   Edited 12/16/2006 9:58 am ET by PCWoodworks

1. 
   Gretchen | Dec 17, 2006 05:10am | #7

   But you get high marks for thinking of it in the first place!! And you are good to go for the next project. Nothing wasted!Gretchen