Replies

1. 
   doorboy | May 19, 2009 07:15pm | #1

   I'd say good ol' plastic resin glue.(As in Dap Weldwood) It's great for exterior use, and has a fairly long open time to allow for more complicated glue-ups.
   Just a mild word of warning: I would try to stay away from a particle board core. Look for stave lumber core if you can find it. It's better for exterior use
2. 
   saschafer | May 19, 2009 10:57pm | #2

   Can you describe what you expect the door to look like in the end? I ask because you're likely to encounter some problems gluing solid wood to plywood (which is what the faces of a solid core door are made of).

   -Steve

    

1. 
   PaulCW | May 20, 2009 01:10am | #3

   I'm gluing solid wood (oak) to birch veneer on masonite on a solid core door.  The birch will be stained Dark Walnut with Minwax oil based stain. 

   Does the stain affect glue performance?

1. 
   saschafer | May 20, 2009 01:36am | #4

   That's not quite what I meant...

   I'm guessing that you're trying to make something that resembles a conventional 6-panel wood door? The problem is that solid oak is going to expand and contract in width as the humidity rises and falls. The plywood panel, on the other hand, does not move with humidity. If the oak piece is too wide, it will eventually crack, or fracture along the glue line. You can probably get away with it if you make the rails and stiles quite narrow, no more than about 4", and use quartersawn wood. Even so, there will likely be noticeable gaps between the ends of the rails and the stiles during the dry part of the year.

   To answer your other question: I would sand the stained surface before gluing, but I wouldn't bother trying to completely remove it.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   PaulCW | May 20, 2009 04:30am | #5

   What I'm doing is building a board and batten style door.  There will be 5 vertical boards (making up 36" wide) glued to a stable core.  The 5/8" thick x 7 1/2" wide solid wood barn boards will be edge butted, but not edge glued.  I'm not concerned slight gapping between boards (hence the need to stain the birch plywood dark).  It's supposed to be rustic. 

   Will the stain interfere with glue bonding? 

1. 
   saschafer | May 20, 2009 04:46am | #6

   There is no glue that is going to hold those boards in place if you glue them down solidly. They are likely to vary in width 1/8" or more over the seasons. You have to design the door to allow them to move as they want to, or the door is going to pull itself apart.

   I would apply a single bead of glue so that it is centered under the plank, so that the only part of the board that is glued is a narrow strip, about 1" wide, down the center of the board.

   I would also apply the stain in a narrow strip under where the gaps will be. That way, there is no concern with the stain interacting with the glue.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   SteveSchoene | May 20, 2009 03:45pm | #7

   Steve Schafer has given you exactly the right answer.  You have to allow for the solid wood to both expand and shrink in width over time.  If those barn boards are fully dry to begin with that means you need to give them a little space to expand should they become more moist in the future. 

3. 
   JohnWW | May 20, 2009 04:41pm | #8

   A water based stain probably won't interfere with the bond of most glues. I'll add to the other comments on the weakness of the design. The boards should be ship lapped which will eliminate the gap showing the core and will allow for the wood to move. In addition to the boards possibly cracking, the stress could easily warp the entire door ruining the fit and closure.John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007