Replies

1. 
   GretchenTHE FIRST | Sep 22, 2011 09:21am | #1

   I think shellac on pine is beautiful, but I don't think for a dresser top it is durable enough for what might be put on it--a wet glass, polish remover, etc. Easy to repair, yes, but a wipe on varnish would be more durable, and I think just as pretty.  And the technique for wiping on varnish (PLEASE use a non-poly, maybe even satin finish varnish for a nicer look) is easier to master, I think, than padding shellac.

   Wipe your wood down with some mineral spirits to see what it will look like with a clear finish.

2. 
   GretchenTHE FIRST | Sep 23, 2011 08:57am | #2

   If it is varnish, you'll have to hit the real store for it. They don't carry a non-poly varnish.

3. 
   hammer1 | Sep 26, 2011 01:16pm | #3

   Try the Minwax wipe on poly, almost fool proof and very easy. Wipe on and wipe off like you were cleaning a table, don't leave a thick wet coat. It will be dry almost as you wipe it off. Three applications looks great, do more and it starts to look like a poly varnish that was put on too thick. Usually the mistake many make with any film coating.

4. 
   hammer1 | Sep 27, 2011 08:16am | #4

   Lots of folks say that, I was expecting someone other than you, Howard. One of the issues with making your own brew is that you alter the balance of vehicle, to resins, to driers and other components. If you have ever used this relatively newer Minwax product, you would know that it behaves quite differently from thinned down poly varnish. I'm not one who uses hardware store finishes very often but this one is quite good, extremely easy and looks great. The ratio of driers makes all the difference since you don't have a wet surface that takes hours to set. You don't get the coagulation leaving goobers in the surface or dust nibs that frustrate most ordinary poly users and gives it such a bad reputation. It gives the superior properties of polyurethane resins, water, chemical and abrasion resistance and the look of a brush or spray applied finish that has been flattened and buffed, without the work.

   This pic of a maple top I recently did isn't very crisp but the top is baby butt smooth and immediately got oohs and ahhs from everyone, "how do you do that", was the question. That's coming from a pro finisher with several training schools and spray equipment.

   
1. 
   GretchenTHE FIRST | Sep 27, 2011 08:36pm | #5

   ONE real point is that it is still  polyurethane. Yes it is easy to put on. But it is still polyurethane.  There is NO problem diluting good non-poly varnish with thinner and wiping it on just like the "bought'n stuff" you pay twice as much for and get a plasticky finish. Raio of driers, etc. all the chemical stuff you put up--it just is NOT that hard.

   Get some really good non-poly varnish, dilute it 50 50 and have at it as a wipe on. It is not that hard, and don't let anyone fool you into thinking it is.

   I am sure that is a beautiful table top. Who knows how much more beautiful it would be without the "plastic" of poly.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 28, 2011 03:09pm | #6

   The Minwax Wipe-on and the Watco Wipe-on both contain non-varnish additives that bulk up their products.  These additives soften the finish and reduce the VOC levels. 

   When it's all said and done, thinning a standard varnish or poly-varnish does not chemically change the resulting finish.  Both the thinner that is standard in the finish and any added thinner fully evaporate.  The film that is left is the varnish and it's the same film whether the varnish was full strength or thinned.  The only difference is that the film left from the thinned varnish will be slightly thinner.  More coats will be needed to develop the same film thickness.

   On a final point, thinning a standard varnish or poly varnish significantly reduces the flash off time.  Under normal environmental conditions, a thinned varnish will be dry to the touch within an hour or two at the most.  After two hours most often it can be scuff sanded and another coat added.

5. 
   TLROWLAND | Oct 10, 2011 02:29pm | #7

   Hi Wanda.  I'm sure by now you've already finished your project.  As the others have said, shellac is always a good choice and is very versatile.  I prefer finishes of the non-toxic variety anyway.  There's enough garbage already in all the other products we consume, I don't need more of it soaking into my skin if you know what I mean.

   An option you may consider for some future projects that I have had excellent results with is Tried and True Varnish Oil.  Our friends here at FW, along with reknowned woodworker Chris Beksvortt (forgive me Chris, I know I probably spelled it wrong) have written articles on this great product.  It makes a wonderful finish and does not blotch.  It also brings out the patina and beautifies the wood better than any oil finish I've ever used.  Wonderful Stuff!  Just natural raw linseed oil and resins.  I use it on most of my projects now, even the ones that I stain to add a hand rubbed look.  Take care!   -TL

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 11, 2011 12:46am | #9

   T&T Varnish Oil is a somewhat

   T&T Varnish Oil is a somewhat controversial product.  If applied in more than extremely thin coats it takes a very long time to cure, even though the linseed oil is polymerized to a degree to begin with.  Some swear by it, but probably more folks swear at it.

6. 
   wanda2010 | Oct 10, 2011 06:15pm | #8

   Tried and True Varnish Oil

   Hi,

   I will have to give that product a try on my next project. I used shellac on the dresser. inside and out. I applied shellac to the outside of the drawers and the rails of the dresser. Then I gave the rails a coat of wax. I went with shellac because I really dislike the smell of Poly.. it lingers for ages!

   Is that product available at Home Depot. How long does it take to dry between coats? how many coats are necessary?

   What do you think about an oil varnish finish made with equal amts. of mineral spirits, spar varathane and boiled linseed oil. I have yet to try that out.

   wanda

1. 
   user-64052 | Oct 11, 2011 12:38pm | #10

   don't use

   any oiled based or polyurethanes on the inside of a closed case

   ron

2. 
   TLROWLAND | Oct 11, 2011 03:51pm | #11

   Tried and True Varnish Oil

   Hey Wanda.  I have to agree with you about the smell of poly.  My wife always complains about the smell for a couple weeks after!  You can't get Tried and True from the local Home store, but your local woodworking supply store should have it.  I picked mine up at Woodcraft.  You can also order online at Rockler, Woodcraft, Lee Valley, etc.  The Varnish Oil is what I use.

   T&T goes on super thin.  I take some out of the container and put it in a small jar or something of the sort and heat it up (place jar in either hot hot water in a bowl, or a glue pot if you've got one).  Warming it up a bit makes it spread easier.  Use a old tee shirt cut into rags and fold them over.  Just apply it in super thin coats, wait about an hour and then wipe of the excess.  The can says about 8 hours, so I usually just come back the next day and apply a second.  If I'm using just the oil, I'll do 3 coats at least.  If I'm using over stain or dye, 2 is fine for me.  You can buff it to give it a nice sheen.  The can says buff with 0000 steel wool, but don't because if you're using it on wood with open pores like red oak, which is prominent in our area here, steel particles can come loose and get into the pores discoloring the wood.  Use burnishing pads or just a clean cloth.  Some people don't like T&T, but then again some people don't like onions or malt wiskey either!  I like it because it brings out the patina of the wood, is almost fool-proof, and it actually smells great.  You don't even need gloves.

   When it comes to my oil finishes, I like to keep it simple, so I can't really give you advice on the mix.  But hey, experimenting is always fun, right! ha ha.  I will say DON'T use boiled linseed oil, or any oil finish that is not 100% all natural inside case work where there will not be constant air flow.  Oils with chemical compounds added to them can turn rancid smelling if used on, say, the insides of cabinets, etc.  Only use these on the outsides.  A wipe on poly is a good choice for cabinet interiors.  Take care.   -TL

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 12, 2011 08:46am | #12

   It's not chemical additives that causes lingering odors from oil based finishes--including wipe on poly. It's just the natural result of the curing process that occurs with such materials.  You can avoid odors on interiors by using only shellac or waterborne acyrlic finishes. Or, just don't finish the interiors it's not really needed.