I live in a small town and the only options we have around here are the big box stores. I am tired of buying pot metal screws that will not cut it. I have tried looking around at the different internet suppliers to look for bulk screws but am not happy with what I have found. I am looking to buy bulk #6, #8, #10 in a wide range of sizes. Any suggestions……………
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Replies
A common lament. LOL
Lee Valley, Mc Feeley's, Highland Hardware (Spax). All good screw sources in my experience.
I would like to second the recommendation for SPAX screws from Lee Valley. I have used these in the past, and found that they work like no other. They have actual saw teeth on the edge of the threads for the first 4-5 threads. These help tremendously in getting the screw in the hole before it snaps off -- with MUCH less effort.
I was sinking 3 1/2" long #10 screws through drywall into studs with a pilot hole drilled. The split point screws will work too, but the SPAX are still the best.
Get these and you will stop looking for good screws.
Thom
I use McFeelys and have never had any complaints. The bed lube I have found for the money is a toilet bowl ring. It is beeswax and only 80 cents.
If you can tell us which Internet suppliers you've tried, and why you are dissatisfied with their product selections, it would help us understand your criteria so that we can make useful suggestions.
-Steve
I would like to buy a complete assortment. #6 through #10. Boxes of 100. I don't want the heads to peal off.
Rockler, Reid, Lee Valley. I am looking at McFeely's now and it looks promising.
Edited 9/17/2007 1:37 pm ET by hereford
Do they go ding or dong when they "peal off"?
Sorry just had to play with the typo.
You might try waxing or some other type lubricant. I don't have trouble with any but the lowest quality, but I do use wax.
Here is the very best : http://www.jamestowndistributors.com
In my opinion nobody else comes even close !
C.
I like the grade of fasteners they have. No starter kit though. I think I will order through them. Thanks for the link. I really need to replace every screw I have.
The very best screw I ever found was......oh, never mind.
I used to use Phillips head until I got the Kreg pocket hole jig with square drive screws, and I like them a lot better, once I got the knack. It's easy to drive them with too much speed/force. They'll split wood pretty easily. But after I got the feel I find they stop dead without the driver jumping out of the hole, like phillips always do. And they are usually driven quite securely when they hit the stop point.
Boardman
Phillips designed his screws to jump out. Stopped overtightening before you had adjustable clutches on power drivers.
dave
Edited 9/17/2007 6:09 pm ET by Patto
That may be true, but I'd wager that everyone over the age of 3 has had a phillips strip out to the point of being unusable without ever getting tight, so the concept was good but failed somewhat in application. I'm just saying the suare drive is a distinct improvement.
Yeah, I never understood the attraction of Phillips Head screws. Have replaced the bolts holding my router baseplate with hex for the same reason - had to use a light impact driver to get one out.
dave
Patto,
I think they're a step up from straight/slotted heads. Especially when driving with power tools. :-)
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I suspect it had to do with the production line. It is much easier to have the bit hit the right spot with Phillips than with slotted screws. I assume that on the line the torque was carefully matched to the job and the material at each station.
Can't remember my source (too much junk in my head for that) but the story I heard was that Phillips inventd these after Henry ford complained that his assy line workers were stripping or breaking too many screws with their early power drivers.
So the self centrering / cam out were design features for a specific application. Of course, we wood workers would necer use a tool where it wasn't intended.
Dave
The Phillips was designed to cam out. It was designed for installation with power tools before they put clutches in the tools. It is self centering and cam out as it comes to torque.
If you are not using one get either a clutched driver, or an impact driver.
I was scratching my head until you said you had trouble with the screws from Lee Valley. You might be using the wrong screw type, not the wrong supplier. That would be anything but the Robertson screw and driver. I don't have the problem you describe because I never use philips screws except to remove them.
Its a Canadian invention like basketball and Lightfoot, but we'll let you use them if you're polite and say "eh".
Andy
I haven't ordered screws from Lee Valley. I have been getting them at the big box stores. Lee Valley has what I want but I would really like a "starter kit". Don't want to have to think too hard about the choices. One part number and all the screws you will need. (tongue in cheek)
McFeely's. No need to look any further. PMM
I now get all my screws from Lee Valley. Lots of choices and good phone support.
Ernie
I just went through this same da*^ned thing while replacing an overhead door track the other day. Really ticked me off. Not that the heads peeled off (I did drill pilot holes) but that the Phillips cross got dinged beyond use even without using a power driver. I finally changed over to the square-drive screws. The quality wasn't much better, but the design keeps them from becoming unuseable.
McFeely's is where I intend to go. Let us know how you do with your choice.
I do a lot of cabinet making and nothing is more frustrating (especially when working with oak or cherry) when I snap off the head on a screw or cap out. This is inspite of the fact that I always cut pre-countersinks and use acumpucky or bar soap as a lubricant.
After having tried screws from various hardware stores and the big box stores, I ordered some from Mc Feely. I must say I am very satisfied with the results. They seem to be well engineered and stronger. I especially like the square drive screws which are less likely to cap out. They also feature helpful tips throughout their catalog on the theory of how screws work and guidance for selecting certain ones.
I think the retail stores must buy their screws from China or any place that gives them a good deal. The only thing I can say for them is that you can obtain them right away or you can buy them in small quantities. That is the only positive thing I can offer in their defence.
Go on to mcfeelys.com and take a look.
I hope this helps. Jigmaker
This is exactly my sentiment and McFeely's will probably get my nickel. It also appears I will be replacing my supply with square drive.
ASSY screws from Wurth. Pozi drive. Self drilling and self countersinking. For a lot of applications these things are great. I wish pozi drive was available on more types. My supplier is Louis and Co.
Paul
hereford,
Even the cheapest screws can work acceptably as long as they aren't overstressed..
Most people can put way too much torque into these small of screws.. if you do a little research into their strength. Basically you're probably asking it to do two or three times it's capablity..
Do you drill pilot holes, shank holes and counterbore for the head? even if you do a lot of hardwood requires much more strength than a standard screw offers..
I've found that torque head screws tend to have the greatest strength rating.. square headed screws are almost as good. torque headed screws strippout almost never. Square headed screws need a good bit to keep from stripping or camming out..
I do pre-drill my holes. I just don't see my skinny arm twisting screws like they are made out of tin foil.
hereford,
Some screws need less than 8 foot pounds of torque to exceed the rating of the screw..
You need to drill a 80% pilot hole a full diameter shank hole and counterbore not to exceed the rating of some screws.. Then the screw will need to be lubed..
Grizzly used to sell this really cool lube for like 80cents a tube and I can't tell you how much it eased the install of all my screws.. OOPs I just looked it up and the price is now $4.95 a stick!
WOW! (model G4413)
stuff really works though!
Hi frenchy,
Years ago, before screw guns, we used to keep a block of beeswax around to ease driving screws by hand. Worked pretty well. Don't miss driving all those screws by hand, though.
Paul
colebearanimals,
I think it was Fine Wood working that tested various things that made screws go in easier and that's where I found out about the tube from Grizzly. it tested best..
I've used all sorts of things wax, beeswax, soap, glue (yeh! it helps) oil WD40 anti seeze, the stuff from grizzly works the best..
I even remember my dad putting screws in his mouth to help lubricate them. His DNA must be all over the place.
I'll have to try some of that Grizzly stuff. Thanks for sharing the tip.
Paul
McFeely's is super. http://www.mcfeelys.com
I buy almost all my screws from McMaster-Carr, http://www.mcmaster.com. No minimum order, low shipping charges, and much better selection from McFeely's (e.g., want a 6-32 titanium screw? No problem, but they're ~$4 each). If you happen to live in city with one of their warehouses, you can do Will-Call as well. There's only been a couple of times when I've had to get something they didn't have: some silicon bronze screws, which Jamestown had since they specialize in marine hardware.
The local Fastenal's are pretty worthless. The only stock they keep is what is commonly needed by contractors. Anything else they need to special-order in, which ends up taking much longer, and it more expensive, than getting it from McMaster direct.
I'm kind of picky about the look of screws. If the screw is visible, and the piece is supposed to be fine furniture, I'd never use philips or square-drive. They're just plain ugly, and inappropriate in a high-quality piece. Slotted is the only appropriate thing to use, IMHO.
The other issue is using small brass wood screws in hard woods like white oak. It's tricky to avoid stripping the heads off. If you drill the pilot hole the correct diameter for the threads, you need to ensure you drill a bigger hole for the unthreaded part of the shank, either as part of countersinking or otherwise. If you don't, the screw head will twist off when you try to force it into the smaller-diameter hole. Some people have luck with tapered drill bits, or inserting a steel screw, removing it, and then putting the brass one in. However, for woods like this, I now just tap the threads, and use machine screws rather than wood screws. That's where McMaster's selection has come in handy. 'not too many other places one can get #5-40, brass, slotted, flat head machine screws (for some hinges I had that used #5 wood screws).
Your subject line is a bit ambiguous. I'll assume you're talking about fasteners.
I've found Mcfeelys to be good. I also like Louis and Company. They are a Wurth distributor. Wurth makes some pretty industrial quality products.
I have settled on Mcfeelys. They even have a two thousand screw variety pack that will get me started. The thread title was intended to catch the eye. Fasteners are just plain boring.
McFeely's — never had a problem, excellent quality.
Square drive from McFeeleys unless they show, then appropriate screws from McFeeleys.
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