Hello and thank you in advance.
I previously built a bathroom vanity with raised panel doors, and used 2 and 7/16 for the stiles and rails (4 qtr cherry material, so 7/8 thick). I do not recallexactly how i came up with that width, but i recall somehow determining that it was the “standard.” Now i am going to tackle (with the same CMT router bit set) the pantry with 4/4 maple (i love cherry but the woman who has made me a father 5x over, and put up with me for the past 29 years desires maple, so maple it will be) and then onto the kitchen . . . . . eventually . . . if my day job doesn’t get in the way.
The doors on the vanity were 12″ wide and 18ish high, so the 2 and 7/16 width was just fine. The pantry lower doors are going to be 19ish wide and 29ish high, and the upper doors are going to be 19ish wide and 58ish high. How do i determine (other than eyeballing) the proper or appropriate stile and rail dimensions for the larger and wider doors. My gut says the 2 and 7/16 would be okay on the lowers, but i sense if i used them on the top i would be better making each upper door with a center horizontal (yeah, i get mixed up with whether rail is vert or horiz , and whether stile is vert or horiz) divider, and thus have 2 raised panels in the upper doors.
Wouldn’t i be better beefing-up the rails and stiles? If so, how big is enough and how much is too much? thank you.
one-half inch overlay euro hinges, full face frame, 3/4 prefinished maple box and shelves . . . if it matters.
Edited 8/22/2008 5:46 pm by stpatrick
Replies
Within reason, isn't the width of your rails and stiles an aesthetic problem. I am in the process of building a kitchen with stiles and rails of 1 5/8" with intermediate rails of 1". These also have a 3/16" quirk bead milled in to further lighten the appearance.
I just happen to have a preference for thinner believing the wider stiles to be less attractive. But that's just my opinion!
Hastings
Hastings, thank you for the quick reply. Are your panels floating??
I certainly agree aesthetics are an important consideration, but i am concerned more with the strenght aspect since the raised panels will be floating (i hope this is the correct way) and therefore all the strenght will have to come from the glue joints at the corners, and it just seems that there will be alot of stress there for a 2 and 7/16th joint. maybe i am under-estimating the strenght of the corner joints??????
Yes, my panels are floating but I use a loose tenon to join rail to stile. (6mm x 40mm).Were one to rely solely on the small tenon of a cope and stick, then it might not be strong enough.Hastings
Patrick,
It is largely what and how the eye sees it. I would be inclined to keep that 27/16th's width for the uppers, but might increase the width of the stiles a bit for the long doors- just might. I would definitely use a dividing rail and may not put it in the middle.....and may make it narrower than the top and bottom rails....
I suggest you set them out full scale on a sheet of ply and see how they look-if uncertainty still lingers then submit the drawings for final consideration to the contractor-general herself.
Philip, thank you much for your insight. Hope all is well with you and your fabulous planes. Best regards, Patrick
If you're planning on using cope and stick frames with european hinges, the stiles (vertical pieces) will need to be at least 1-7/8" wide to accomodate the hinge cup.
Hi Patrick ,
Industry standard is 2 1/4" in many cases , I use 2 1/2" as a standard . The look of the piece you are doing should dictate the sizes or scale used .
You will get more strength and more glue joint by increasing the size of the rails . And agree with Philip break the tall doors into 2 panels .
And I agree with you , Philip makes the most beautiful planes I have ever seen .
luck to you dusty
Dusty and Dave, thanks for the responses. Patrick
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