Replies

1. 
   PrunusSerotina | Aug 10, 2009 04:52pm | #1

   You'll need a waterproof glue that is non toxic when dry. Titebond III is an excellent choice, and I've used it quite a few times for this application. There are other choices, though.

1. 
   philip_r | Aug 10, 2009 06:59pm | #2

   I second the TBIII.  Perfect choice and FDA approved.

2. 
   Napie | Aug 11, 2009 12:09am | #3

   Make that another vote for Tite Bond III.  I also use if for the ipe and bamboo longbows I make, great stuff.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 11, 2009 06:29pm | #7

   Any of the exterior or water resistant PVA adhesives will work just fine. Titebond II or Titebond III are both more than water resistant enough.Here is some info you might find helpful if you are making an end grain cutting board.There is a little engineering that needs to be considered when building an end grain butcher block or cutting board. First, choose wood where the growth rings (viewed from the end) run as close to 90 degrees or parallel to one edge. Remember, the expansion/contraction is about double along the annular rings verses perpendicular to the rings. You've got to keep the grain running in the same direction as you glue up your strips. In other words, don't glue a flatsawn edge to a quartersawn edge. Next, the way butcher blocks are made is to glue up strips of wood like you were making a laminated type cutting board. These laminated panels are then run through a planer to flatten them and bring them to equal thickness. Then the panel is crosscut into strips of blocks equal to the thickness that you want the butcher block to be. These block strips are then glued together again keeping the grain running in the same directions. Not paying attention to the grain orientation will lead to the block cracking and/or joints being pulled apart. A type II adhesive will work just fine however, you need to be sure you do everything right to get good adhesion. Your glue faces should be flat and freshly cut. It they were cut more than a few days earlier, freshen them up with about three swipes with 320 sandpaper and block to keep the faces flat. Generally, threaded rod is not used as maple has quite a bit of movement when it's moisture content changes. Threaded rod would restrict this movement and either deform the block or pull the nut/washers into the wood when it expanded leaving the rod performing no function when the wood later shrinks. Proper gluing will keep the block together.Howie.........

1. 
   SantaFeTom | Aug 12, 2009 01:40am | #8

   Everyone has covered what to do so I will cover what not to do. Don't use a polyurethane glue like Gorilla. I did and the cutting board failed.

   ...tom

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Aug 12, 2009 07:27pm | #9

   Tom - How about flour and water? That's food safe!Howard - Go with Titebond III.All - What is wrong with this thread? Why is everyone agreeing with eachother?Chris @ http://www.flairwoodworks.com
   and http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com) - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

   Edited 8/12/2009 12:28 pm by flairwoodworks

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 13, 2009 05:49pm | #12

   >> Howard - Go with Titebond III.Why? There is no inherent water resistant advantage to either adhesive. TBII passes the ANSI Type II water resistance test and TBIII passes the ANSI Type 1 test. Both of these tests are well in excess of what a cutting board will experience. Until the advent of the Type 1 adhesives, all cutting boards and butcher blocks were made with Type 2 adhesives and they are just fine. Either Titebond will be fine. Here is what Titebond has to say about their two adhesives and their "waterproofness":QUOTEWhat Is The Difference Between ANSI Type I & Type II Water-resistance?Both of these tests are conducted using 6" x 6" birch laminates glued together to make three-ply plywood. The test for Type I is clearly more stringent than Type II, and involves boiling the glue bonds and testing the specimens while they are wet.Type 1 testing involves cutting the 6" X 6" assemblies into 1" x 3" specimens,boiling them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 145°F oven for 20 hours. They are boiled for an additional 4 hours, then immediately cooled using running water. The specimens are then sheared while still wet, and the bond must pass certain strength and wood failure requirements to pass the Type I specification.Type 2 testing involves cutting the 6" X 6" assemblies into 2" x 5" specimens, soaking them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 120°F oven for 19 hours. This is repeated for a total of three cycles, and the bond must not delaminate to pass the Type II specification.
   Howie.........

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Aug 13, 2009 08:56pm | #13

   Howie,I'll admit that I didn't know the difference between the ANSI ratings. Thanks for teaching me something today! Your post inspired me to visit Titebond's website to learn more and your conclusion that either Titebond II or Titebond III would be sufficient for your use. I don't think that either would be better, but rather degrees of overkill.That said, I would probably make my decision on the other properties of the glue, such as the working time or colour.I recommended TItebond III because I haven't used Titebond II and I have been happy with how Titebond III worked out.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodworks.com and http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

3. 
   RichinVA | Aug 13, 2009 09:34pm | #14

   And TB3 has a lot more open time than TB2, a fact much appreciated if your glue-up consists of many pieces.............Rich

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 15, 2009 05:24pm | #15

   Yes Richard, its open time and its ability to be used at lower temperatures are, IMO, the two most useful and relevant characteristics of TB III.Few woodworkers need an adhesive that is suitable for continual submersion or submersion and high heat.Howie.........

2. 
   Napie | Aug 12, 2009 11:10pm | #11

   I bellieve this should have been directed to the OP.

3. 
   spotcheck | Aug 11, 2009 12:51am | #4

   Yep.  TBIII on the dozen or so hard maple ones I've done.  Clamp the living bejeezus out of it to pull all the sections together.  The other thing I learned the hard way is to alternate grain direction between adjacent blocks.

4. 
   GregoryPaolini | Aug 11, 2009 01:52pm | #5

   I'd hate to be the one that goes a different direction than the rest of the pack....

    

   So I wont! 

    

   Titebond 3 for me as well!

    

    

   Gregory Paolini

   http://www.GregoryPaolini.com

   Custom Furniture, Cabinetry, and Woodworking Instruction

5. 
   bones | Aug 11, 2009 04:55pm | #6

   All the others have given good selections.  I will note however that I build a cutting board in high school (1979) with old fashoned elmers wood glue and she's still around and no one died from eating food prepared on her surfaces :)

    

   I was married by a judge - I should have asked for a jury.
   George Burns

1. 
   mike4244 | Aug 12, 2009 10:35pm | #10

   I've made seneral cutting boards over the years. I used Tightbond 1 or Elmers glue. When I made the first ones there was no Tightbond 2 or 3. As best I can tell all are still in use.

   mike