what blade to use to crosscut veneer
I am making some of the striped veneer to use on the boxes in the Sept/Oct 2009 issue by Adrian Ferrazzutti. I have a sled like he describes and am using a fairly new and very sharp Freud LU80R010 blade.I getting tear out both at the corner and sometimes along the edge. It seems to be worse when I go real slow. I tried stacking the and that didn’t help. I use a board on top of the one piece as well. Do I change blades or is there another method that you have found works when crosscutting miters of glued up veneer strips.
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You've got the right blade.
You've got the right blade. The LU80 is a Hi-ATB grind, which is the grind with the least amount of tearout....other similar blades are the Infinity 010-060, 010-080, Forrest Duraline, and Amana MB10-800. Going slower should reduce tearout, not increase it. Things like prescoring, taping, and using a backer board should help. Be sure the blade is clean and sharp.
I'm using the Freud LU80R010
I'm using the Freud LU80R010 on some prefinished birch plywood for kitchen cabinets with a zero clearance insert. I'm getting no chipping either direction - rip or crosscut. The cuts look like they were cut with a lazer. I'm using a 10" cabinet saw, well tuned - no vibration - which I've heard can cause a good blade to perform poorly. Also, have you checked the blade for a chipped or bent tooth?
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