Replies

1. 
   BrentS | Feb 13, 2005 10:31pm | #1

   http://www.japanwoodworker.com/dept.asp?dept_id=11566

1. 
   mycoleptodiscus | Feb 13, 2005 10:52pm | #2

   Yikes!  too much $$ :( 

2. 
   BG | Feb 13, 2005 11:23pm | #3

   Myco,

   I've read that:

   - anything up to and including 1000 grit is sharpening and above that is honing. 

   - 4000 grit and stropping with rouge or 4000 and 8000 is about the same relative to honing

   - a fine wire on the end of the chisel need to be removed. Stropping can remove it after the 4000...you can probably use your hand after the 8000.

   I'd buy one or two japanese chisels about the $25-30 each range (Woodcraft) and see if yo like them. 

    

3. 
   Peter36 | Feb 14, 2005 12:35am | #4

   Hi again Myc. I am not exactly sure what you mean when you say that you are losing the burr on the 4000. I use Nortons as well and with a brand new chisel I would flatten it on a 1000 grit stone. ALL flattening is completed on the coarsest stone and subsequent grits are only refining the level of polish [sharpening]. After all the manufacturers marks are removed on my 1000, I go to the 4000 until all 1000 scratches are gone and then I go to the 8000 until all the 4000 scratches are gone. Everything until this point has been flattening and then polishing the flat side of the chisel. AFTER this is completed you should see an even reflection [not a warped reflection ] in the back of the chisel and there should be no dull spots in the last inch or so of the blade. At this point the BACK is flat and polished and will never see the 1000 or the 4000 grit stones again.                           Flip the chisel over and increase the angle slightly [ if the chisel is 25* - then raise it too 27* or so ] and hone on the 1000 grit stone until you have a burr across the ENTIRE edge felt on the flat side. At this point switch to the 8000 grit stone and raise the bevel angle slightly again by 1* or so. Hone until the edge is polished [2 or 3 strokes] and this is your microbevel. The bevel is now complete and to finish the sharpening all you do is flip the chisel to the flat side and drag it backwards on the 8000 stone to pull the wire edge off. The chisel is now sharp.              In subsequent sharpenings you just re-establish the edge on the 1000 grit stone raising the bevel 1 or 2* from the factory angle and hone until the wire edge is there. Change to the 8000 and polish the edge [microbevel] then flip the chisel and drag the wire edge off on the 8000 stone.    Hope this helps you.   Peter

1. 
   mycoleptodiscus | Feb 14, 2005 12:59am | #5

   Looks like I'm doing everything OK.  I meant that I was losing the very thin wire that forms when the burr has been removed (I used to lose this on my hard translucent Arkansas back in the oilstone days)

4. 
   PhillipB | Feb 14, 2005 06:39am | #6

   Myco -

   " ... I want to get a set of Japanese laminated steel chisels ..."

   I purchase my all of my Japanese chisels from Japan Woodworker. I buy either the "Teruo Miyanaga's" (blue steel) or the "Nishiki's" (white steel). On the practical side, I experience no difference with either type.

   In regards to size, that is determined by your own particular needs. This will become evident as you progress.

   One warning: these chisels must be prepared for paring specific wood types - hard vs soft - prior to use. Hardwood requires a steeper bevel or micro-bevel than that required for softwood. Failing this, you can expect the edge you spent much time (and money) on, to crumble in the hardwood. Take a look at Leonard Lee's book, "The Complete Guide to Sharpening". Everything you will need to know is in this book.

   PETER36's advise is also very good. No doubt he's done what he described more than once. I would add a good honing guide to your repertoire. Very difficult to make a 2 degree change without one. Good luck.

   Regards,
   Phillip

1. 
   mycoleptodiscus | Feb 14, 2005 07:13am | #7

   Lee's book is in the mail

1. 
   PhillipB | Feb 14, 2005 04:44pm | #8

   Good Morning, Myco -Congratulations! I was getting worried.You will never regret the purchase of this book. It is an incredible treatise on sharpening every edged tool known to man. When I received mine, I immediately realized just how very little I knew about this vital aspect of our craft. However, I was elated with all of the detailed knowledge which Mr. Lee placed at my finger tips in this wonderful book.Keep us posted.Regards,
   Phillip

5. 
   tbird | Feb 14, 2005 08:26pm | #9

   Myco-

   I have had a combination waterstone for some time and to address the point of the mess created when using one, here is what I did.

   1. Get an inexpensive plastic cutting board, preferably with a "blood groove" that runs around the periphery.  (You may want to deepen this groove with a router).  It should be larger in area than all your waterstones combined.

   2. Buy some 1/2" (or 3/4") angle aluminum and layout your waterstones on the board so that they are in position for use.  You will need space between them for the aluminum angle.

   3.  Frame each stone on the board with the aluminum (4 pieces/stone) and screw in place with self-drilling sheet metal screws.

   4. Place your waterstones in the frames and keep wet with a small spray bottle of water.

   5.  When you are finished using the stones for the day, remove them and store in whatever container you use and wipe off the board with paper towel.  you can mount this cutting board to a piece of lumber to mount in a vice or glue some sandpaper or rubber feet to the back to keep it in place on a workbench.

   This keeps your sharpening operation in the shop and out of the kitchen and you out of the dog house.