Replies

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Dec 07, 2002 07:49am | #1

   Jim,  it's definately do-able - - you need to find a mill - here's a link to the Woodmizer corp,  I've gotten names of sawyers in my area from them before - http://www.woodmizer.com/wmwebsite/welcome.html  and another link to a board of sawyers who might be of help,  certainly you can peruse the board and learn much - http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forums/sawdry.pl - residental trees are notorious for containing metal,  depending,  you might need to waste 5-6' to reduce the chance - make sure to cut thick enough for your anticipated projects,  ex;  if you ask for 1 inch boards,  the sawyer most likely will make a cut every inch along his scale,  resulting in boards that are 1" minus the saw kerf, which then shrink as they dry to the point it may be difficult to end up with surfaced boards that are 3/4" thick - - depending on your desire, 4/4 will start you with full 1" thick material - and it's often nice to have some thicker material in stock - have the sawyer cut some stickers for you while he's there - often they are 3/4" square,  altho I use 1/4" thick to keep the stacks shorter - I'm sure it does lengthen the drying time,  but time flies -

   Woodmizers and similar machines can handle fairly small and short logs,  so analyze the tree to get the best yeild - walnut is rarely figured,  but crotch material can have interest - large limbs are saw-able,  but will be more likely to  contain internal tension and so need to be turned on the sawmill with each cut -

   good luck and do be carefull - DOUD

2. 
   Telemike | Dec 07, 2002 08:10am | #2

   I've dried chunks of several walnuts now and used the wood.  I live south of woodland.  I cut the trees down and digest the firewood branches.  Then, I cut out straight vertical sections about 3' - 6' in length and paint the ends with anchorseal (get it at woodcraft on folsom blvd).  Then I leave it until I have time to cut it, but I try to slice it in half (along the axis) pretty quickly to minize checking.  I cut down the length with a chain saw about 4" deep on each side and pound wedges until it splits. 

   Then it goes into the barn for years until it's sliced.

   When you first cut it,  it will be a weird light brown with distict purple overtones.  Don't worry, it turns gorgeous brown when it dries.

   I don't use the bottom 6' to 8' of trees due to nails, fence wire, staples, etc.  My wife's cousin uses a sensitive metal detector to scan the wood I cut.  I ultimately cut it up on a bandsaw.

   The wood can also be rough turned wet into bowls and dried in two or three brown paper grocery bags.  After about three months in the dry season or the entire wet season, it can be finish turned.

   Gorgeous wood, definitely worth the effort!

1. 
   fdampier5 | Dec 08, 2002 08:41am | #3

   Black walnut is the king of hardwoods.  

           When you first cut it there will be a greenish cast to the wood but a day or two later it will dry to a closer to true color.  Air drying can take a very long time and you can't just sticker it up and forget it.  You will need to tear down the stack and restack about once a year or so.  Instead of cinder blocks or such I've started to use those inexpensive ratcheting straps.   Just make certain they are directly over the stickers and tighten them once a week at first once a month after a few months  and then after about six months you can check every other month..

3. 
   forestgirl | Dec 08, 2002 08:50am | #4

   You guys are making me homesick!  Spent 21 years in and around Davis, moved up to the Puget Sound in 1989.  If you gather simply toooo much walnut, lemme know, I'll use it as an excuse to go back down and reminisce (no, I'm not holding my breath -- really just wanted to say hi to the valley).

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

4. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Dec 08, 2002 07:47pm | #5

   There's a custom-milling outfit named The Woodsman, in Stockton, who has lots of experience with this.   209-931-3293

   Two more resources -- folks in your area who harvest and mill walnut.   http://www.woodnut.com/ and http://www.wineland-walnut.com/

   
   

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   Edited 12/9/2002 8:47:02 PM ET by JAMIE_BUXTON

5. 
   Splintie | Dec 09, 2002 04:46am | #6

   You might check to see if the tree was grafted. The orchards would plant black walnut for its sturdier rootstock and graft English walnut to it at about 3-4 feet high. The color reminds me of a cup of coffee with cream just poured into it. Anyway, whatever was said about the first few feet having nails in it, i wouldn't turn this part into firewood if it were mine.

   We used an Alaskan mill (clamped onto the 4' bar of a Stihl chainsaw) to slab the wood about 4" thick, painted the ends, let it partially cure, then sawed it as needed. It actually had quite a lot of figure (from the prunings?) and beautiful blues and pinks bec it was air-dried. 

6. 
   Upraiser | Dec 09, 2002 05:45pm | #7

   Jim

   If this is an English Walnut from an old orchard it will likely have the black walnut stump as another person posted.  If so, I suggest you see if you can dig the tree out, rather than have it cut off.   The stump can have some very nice wood in it as well.

   Another interesting thing about the English walnut. it is nearly white when first cut. remains light if dried fresh cut. If you let it set in a damp condition for some time, it will develop a lot of interesting color from mold, etc.  You have to watch it carfully because it can rot rather quickly.

   My father ( a retired lumberman) would look for a Walnut orchard scheduled to be removed (Willamette Valley of Oregon) and would purchase a few cords in full trunk length. stack it up for the winter, let it stay open, wet, really wet, covered with leaves etc. and then cut it in the early spring. Stack and sticker it inside to air dry.  He got a lot of nearly purple streaks, blues stains, and some other interesting shades.  I wish I has some left.   He would get this for next to nothing as poor quality fire wood and the cutter was happy to bring it in longer lengths.

   Some of the black walnut root would extend up the trunk for several feet on a few, others ended with a fairly sharp line, nearly black and white, or black and soft brown.

   Another nice thing, the tree,the wood and what you make of it, will be tied to some nice memories.

   Curt

7. 
   booch | Dec 09, 2002 10:10pm | #8

   Just the stalk will be easy to work with. If you are thinking of saving limbs and parts after a crotch, consider firewood. The problem with the non-stalk parts is that they are reaction wood.

   I've played with a couple hundred foot of Elm that was part of one of those after crotch cuts. I still have most of it and use it for shims, jigs, and short backing pieces. It moves each time you cut it or the humidity changes. Now elm is the king of reaction wood, so I'm describing worst case here. However, anything that has compression and tension in the same piece is an active board. You just can't cut, plane, or rip it straight. And if you do just wait for a change in the weather and see how it moves.

   How big is the tree?

   If it is just a small thing you could consider the chainsaw toys. If so be prepared for a long time cutting it yourself. If you are cleaving more than 3 boards I'd opt for getting it done by a pro with his own tools.

   
   

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   Edited 12/9/2002 3:31:57 PM ET by Booch