Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 27, 2008 07:14am | #1

   Why BriWax Original?  If you want to be safe, use BriWax 2000 which doesn't have the toluene that can damage finishes. I'd still wait a few weeks, though it probably isn't necessary.  Lots of other waxes out there--I like Antiquax, most because of the smell, and because it gives a mellow gloss.   

1. 
   danmart | Jan 27, 2008 04:54pm | #2

   Seems obvious to me. Maybe he has some of the old original around the shop??

   Before viewing Bob Flexner's video years ago on finishes(wax was covered), I always had some questions on the importance of choosing the "best" wax. After viewing Bob's video and listening to his explanation, it seems like most waxes do the same thing?? Funny thing- Bob is a ghost in the FWW world. I don't know??

   At the time there was this cute little flat tin of lemon scent wax that was .. expensive. At the same time there was johnson's floor wax.. cheap and plenty of it.

   Test: I took a couple 6 x 12" pieces of mohagany,maple and walnut, filled the grain, sealed and put on some waterlox. Rubbed it with 0000 steal wool to get a little softer look and hoped to establish a good sealed base that I could do some tests with the 6 pieces of wood.

   I used 4 or 5 different waxes on all of the surfaces and had lots of people compare and choose their favorite. In just about every case they selected the board that I rubbed down the least(waterlox) and left a glossy shine with the varnish. Just about everybody liked the shiniest piece ??

   Truth is: I wiped the wax off of every piece with mineral spirits and applied every wax to the same piece of wood and they chose the shiny piece of wood not because of the wax IMHO but based on the ground.

   Protection: I leave that for another in the forum. The protection in the test case is the varnish as you know. So wax??

   Johnson's Floor wax is good and so is Kiwi shoe wax(clear or color). They are both available, inexpensive and easy to buff out. I imagine most all of the wax brands are good--  I am suggesting they all do the same thing.

   Wait Time for Briwax over Varnish??

   About the same as every other wax. Wait till it gets a little cloudy and rub just about all of it off.

   dan

   Edited 1/27/2008 8:59 am ET by danmart

1. 
   pocketscrew | Jan 27, 2008 05:41pm | #3

   Thanks for the help. But I meant how long for the varnish to dry or harden before applying the wax. I was worried about the solvent ruining the finish. But your points are well taken. Why wax anyway. Everyone seems to like the satin shine of the gel varnish. I wasn't crazy about it because to me it looks a little less "hand rubbed." As with anything it is all a matter of taste. I will try the wax in a few out of the way places first.

2. 
   byhammerandhand | Jan 27, 2008 08:21pm | #4

   I'm with Steve Schone. Choose a mineral spirits based wax and not Briwax ,that is designed to be a restorative wax.

   So the short answer to your question is : 40-70 years, when the varnish has seen much better days.

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Jan 27, 2008 09:32pm | #5

   To answer your question, Briwax Original is made with toluene as the thinner. Toluene works well when restoring old finishes as it is an aggressive cleaner. Briwax was developed as a restoration wax. To be safe, most will recommend not using Briwax Original on an oil based finish that is less than a year old. Nor, should it ever be used on a waterborne finish.

   Briwax 2000 is a standard mineral spirit solvent wax and can be used on any oil based finish that has cured for 3-4 weeks.

   Howie.........