Peter
Here is a violin varnish recipe I have experimented with and its just stunning. I watched the video on the FWW homepage featuring the Chicago Violin School and decided to do a little searching to find what they meant by “varnish” for musical instruments. Here are a couple recipes. I was wondering if you have experimented with these 2 varnish variations. I must say the sandarac imparts a bit of hardness I really like. I just finished a rifle with the #2formula and its a keeper for me.
Any thoughts on this??
| The recipe below is a well known varnish recipe. It makes a beautiful golden spirit varnish which is especially good for touch up, as well as for new instruments.
Place all of the ingredients in a glass jar and let it dissolve, stirring at least twice a day, until the lac no longer sits and sticks to the bottom of the jar (This may take from one to three weeks). When completely dissolved, boil in a double boiler for seven minutes, let cool, and then boil again for seven minutes. While still warm, filter through a cloth (I use a cheese cloth). If it is allowed to cool it will be difficult to filter. Repeat the filtering process until there is no more dirt in the filter. Once this process is complete, and the varnish has cooled, it is ready to use. Since alcohol is lost in the cooking process, thinning with alcohol will probably be necessary to obtain brushing consistency. Be sure to have extra alcohol on hand for this. |
| 1704N Violin Varnish Recipe (Variation) |
| This variation of the 1704 varnish I prefer for the varnishing of new instruments. A small amount of mastic improves adherence between coats, and the sandarac adds a bit of hardness.
Preparations are the same as for the 1704 recipe. The mastic is a softener and improves adherence between coats. Sandarac is a hardener, and gives a bit more gloss to the varnish. Less Lavender oil makes the varnish a bit harder (compensated by the mastic). |
Edited 3/24/2008 6:58 pm ET by danmart
Replies
Hi Dan,
You have some time on your hands don't you? Retirement must be fun.
I've had the opportunity to speak finishes with a number of violin makers over the years. Some will just pucker up when you do this, others are very open.
Some would NEVER use shellac resin in their finish as it is too hard. Finishing debates run rampant in all circles.
Elemi is added as the plasticiser in formulas to keep a spirit varnish from becoming too brittle. It also has an aromatic fragrance.
Lavender oil, like elemi, is soluble in both alcohol and turpentine. It to is basically colorless and is added in very small amounts as a retardant.
To quote;
"Lavender oil is soluble in both spirit and turpentine. Virtually all resins dissolve in lavender oil and it can therefore be used as a solvent additive for making varnish. It can also be added to prepared varnish.
Varnish dries somewhat slower when lavender oil has been added."
Violin Varnishes
Josef and Reiner Hammerl.
FWIW, Behlen makes what they call Violin varnish. It contains shellac, sandarac and mastic. It is quite viscous and can be cut accordingly.
A good friend of mine did his internship in the furniture conservation lab at the Met in NYC. One of the first things he did was make a number of samples with many of the old formulas. These were placed on a shelf with some diffused light and left for about a year. When he retrieved them, some were already breaking down on their own accord.
When we go out for a beer, we always get strange looks when discussing the relative merits of various resins, balsams etc.
On another note; I am working on a large gilding project that had me close enough to visit the Wright-Paterson AF museum a couple of weeks ago. To see an F-15 sitting across from a Mig 29 was pretty cool.
A very poignant moment presented itself when I saw a number of Japanese tourists walking up to the B-29 "Bockscar" and having their picture taken while pointing at it. It was a very humbling moment.
Keep in touch.
Peter
Good stuff Peter thank you. You got everything right but... retirement. I have been full time teaching since retirement from the AF. This will be my 15th year and I don't know how much longer I can hold out?? In addition to teaching I am doing adult classes in the evenings on various woodworking topics and some ground school prep stuff.
After 4 years with many of the same(repeat) woodworking students, we are doing some "advanced stuff" these days. I have 2 lawyers and an orthopedic surgeon from Duke in the group-- conversations cover the full Monte. In between the three large commissioned pieces I am trying to complete in the next year, we are planking a 16' Adirondack Guideboat. I have always wanted to be part of a group effort to build a boat. I wasn't planning on being the "go to guy" on the project. It's pretty funny being the only guy to have dory building experience and working with guys from North Carolina. I don't know how this thing got going but its moving along. Lots of fun but there is a ton of oversight involved and preparation so when they show up there's work to be done. I never thought I would put so much time on my old bandsaw. As I have said in other threads, the Lenox resaw blades are just really great. Can't say enough about them(bi-metal type).
Travel: Peter I am hoping to get a bit to the east on this journey back to Bath Maine. For the past few years I have been going up thru Penn to Binghamton then up to Montreal to get my daughter at McGill. She finished so I am going to go to the end of Long Island and ferry over to New London and stop at the USCG Academy. That's not far from your neck of the woods? If it would not interupt your schedule, I would like to stop in and trade a few war stories??
till then
dan
Dan,
I am about a half hour from the CGA. Look me up before you arrive and we'll get together.
I'm sure I could twist your arm with a few beers right?
Peter
Right and Left arm- clockwise or counterclock.
I know you're not young enough to use lefty loosy and righty tighty junk.
dan
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled