Replies

1. 
   Kell | Jan 28, 2003 04:20pm | #1

   Keith,

   Based on everything I've read and done, this should not pose a problem.  The more important consideration may be what glue is used to attach the veneer.  Most on this board would recommend yellow or hide glues rather than contact cement and I concur for this application.

   You should veneer the back side of the drawer front, too, to keep it from gaining or losing too much moisture on one side and cupping.  Even if you were to cut your joinery first and then veneer, you could run into issues.  Mahogany is a very stable wood but it's always better to be safe.  If I'm not mistaken, the back side veneer can be any species but others will know better.

   Good luck.

   Kell

1. 
   pype | Jan 28, 2003 06:58pm | #2

   Kell

   Thanks for the reply.  I actually got ahold of Daryl Kiel at VacuPress yesterday and he said that it should be fine to do this cross-grain glue up because of the narrow width and stable mahogany.  BTW, I usually use urea resin glues for any vacuum vennering work.

   Thanks again, Keith

2. 
   youn188 | Jan 28, 2003 07:01pm | #3

   Having repaired quite a lot of antique furniture, I've never seen a back veneer used on a such a small drawer, and I've never repaired one that was cupped as a result. Use yellow or hide glue to attach the veneer and you should be OK.

1. 
   pype | Jan 28, 2003 07:37pm | #4

   Ron

   Good to know that I'm probably safe.  Thanks for the reply.

   Keith

3. 
   RLMillard | Jan 29, 2003 04:05am | #5

   I have not worked with the  etimoe veneer before, but I have veneered many drawers and card table aprons, along with cross banded boarders where the veneer runs at a right angle to the grain of the substrate. I have not had any problem with warping or shrinkage , and I doubt you will either, considering 3 ½"  is quite a small span, and mahogany is very stable. If you haven’t already made the drawer fronts, you might consider using quarter sawn stock. I have never used a balancing veneer on such a narrow drawer front as yours, but I do cut the dovetails and fit the joints together dry while the veneer glue cures. My thinking on this is that the dovetails will hold the front flat. When I glue veneer as you are doing, I many times lay one piece and let this cure before laying the next, I do this to minimize any shrinkage, between adjacent sheets . This approach halves the potential for shrinkage cracks at the seam between the sheets. This is assuming of course that your veneer won’t span the entire front in one piece.

1. 
   pype | Jan 29, 2003 07:07pm | #6

   Rob

   I assume by your description that you are laying up your veneer with hot hide glue and a veneer hammer?  I am using a vacuum press so I guess the one piece at a time approach wouldn't be as practical (or necessary?).

   Keith