Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Jul 31, 2008 07:09pm | #1

   I love the marketing on this. Instead of $139 for a tool you're never supposed to need, for a limited time it's only $119 for a tool you're never supposed to need. ;-)

   Even at the intro price, I think I'll stay with sandpaper on a stick. ;-)

   It *is* pretty cool looking, though.

1. 
   Samson | Jul 31, 2008 07:36pm | #2

   It seems like they could have made it deeper than a 1/2".  It might have also been interesting if they could have engineered it in such a way that auxillary wood fence could be attached to allow planing of the walls of sliding dovetail grooves.

   As far as not needing it - I think some of us who do a lot with hand tools and rely on piece to piece fitting more often than machined precision to achieve tight tolerances will find this a tool that gets some use and earns its keep.

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 01, 2008 08:32am | #6

   Ahhh, geeezzzzz, I could really have used it last fall!  Didn't realize that the height lock on my old Jet saw wasn't holding perfectly until I got all the tongues and grooves done.  There were some reallllly tight spots.  That little gem would have saved me some time, for sure.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   Len | Aug 01, 2008 05:37pm | #7

   FG,

   I'm not sure this plane would have solved the problem. But I've been known not to understand plenty of times. If your height adjustment wasn't holding then wouldn't this effect the depth of the grove? This plane trims the width of the grove. If the tongue was to thick a shoulder plane would have done the trick.

   Don't get me wrong there have been several planes I have bought from LV on an introductory price and there isn't one that I regret getting. Although since I have a Stanley #79, I'm not tempted as much. BTW. It took a little fiddling with the #79 working. Len

   "You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox

1. 
   Samson | Aug 01, 2008 05:48pm | #8

   If she had been running rabbets on the TS with the board on edge, the depth of the saw blade could have been controlling the side wall this plane addresses, I suppose.  Just guessing. 

2. 
   Len | Aug 01, 2008 06:05pm | #9

   Right. But FG said "tongue and grove" not rabbets.

   BTW. Finally trapped the stupid rabbit that has been munching my well groomed lawn. Yes, it will go free in but somewhere else.Len

   "You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox

3. 
   Samson | Aug 01, 2008 06:17pm | #11

   How do you make tongues?  It's a rabbet on each side.  And on rabbet, wouldn't this plane be able to shave either cut face of the rabbet?

4. 
   Len | Aug 01, 2008 08:12pm | #15

   I usually do it on my router table with a matched bit set.

   Sure, but you would be better off with a shoulder plane. The new Veritas plane is meant to widen the grove. It wouldn't be as stable as a shoulder plane. Len

   "You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox

5. 
   forestgirl | Aug 01, 2008 06:18pm | #12

   Although the side rabbet plane would have helped widen the groove to accomodate a slightly fatter tongue, you're ride, fixing the tongue with a shoulder plane would make more sense.

   If I ever make another one of those coat rack/cubbie things, the Unisaw should do a much better job!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   derekcohen | Jul 31, 2008 09:16pm | #3

   Hi Ralph

   For years I used a Stanley #79. This is indeed one of those tools that you rarely use but cannot do without when you do need it. I bought the LN #98/99 set about two years ago.

   This weekend I will give the new Veritas a go and write a review.

   View Image

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   sykesville | Aug 01, 2008 01:41am | #5

   Derek, Just wondering if in your review you planned to make comparison with the Stanley/Lie Nielson, even if not the focus of your review. I have the LN pair, but am tempted to get the LV as well. Though I don't see a reason at this point.

2. 
   Len | Aug 01, 2008 06:09pm | #10

   Derek,

   My #79 depth fence leaves score marks on the top surface of the wood. Do you have the same problem? I've already eased the edge on the depth fence. I use it so infrequently that I haven't gotten around to fixing it. Any insight you have would be appreciated.Len

   "You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox

1. 
   derekcohen | Aug 01, 2008 06:29pm | #13

   Hi Len

   Assuming that there are no scratches on the face of the fence itself (you have checked?!), then all I can imagine is

   1. grit is being trapped underneath as you use it.

   2. the trailing blade has not been retracted and is causing the problem.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

2. 
   dkellernc | Aug 01, 2008 07:31pm | #14

   That's one thing I don't like too much about my LN side rabbet planes.  The other is that they don't seem to hold a depth adjustment very well, and the skate on the bottom is thin enough to groove the bottom of the dado.  Not a big deal if the dado is blind, but not so good if the dados are through-cut.

   I therefore went back in time a number of years and tried a pair of wooden side-rabbet planes.  Just my opinion, but they are far easier to use than the metal Stanleys or the LN pair I have.  One case (and there aren't too many of those) when a wooden version is much better than the metal equivalent.

1. 
   Len | Aug 01, 2008 08:19pm | #16

   I went out and dug mine out to take a look at it. The depth stop/fence isn't at a right angle to the body. The scratches are caused by the outside edge of the fence. I could try to bend it to a right angle but I'm afraid I just screw it up. I could just add a strip of UMHW that would solve it.

   I've not seen a wooden version. Did you make the wooden ones yourself? Len

   "You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox

2. 
   dkellernc | Aug 02, 2008 05:24pm | #17

   Len - No, wooden side rabbet planes aren't as common as some joinery planes, but they're by no means rare.  Lee Richmond has a set (these are more collector's items, because they're nearly new despite being 120 years old, but the picture illustrates the form) on his website:  http://www.thebestthings.com/oldtools/graphics/wp80714.jpg.

   There are other forms of these planes as well.  One particular design generally has a metal sole plate, and are really easy to use because they have large registration surfaces:

   http://www.thebestthings.com/oldtools/graphics/wp70828.jpg

   Regarding the Lie-Nielsen planes (I assume you're talking about the L-N planes, not the Stanley originals) - call them up and ask them to make it right.  They're really good about this, no matter how long you've had the tool in service, as the warranty is "for life" (not sure whether this the life of the original owner, or the life of the tool, but I doubt it'd matter).  Attempting to cold bend the hard bronze alloy they use in their tools will likely cause the part to fracture.  It's possible to anneal the alloy and re-shape it, but there's no reason to when they're willing to replace it free of charge.

3. 
   Len | Aug 02, 2008 06:49pm | #18

   Nice planes. I probably don't need to make any myself since I use the #79 so rarely. Besides my plate is full and if you put on your plate you have to finish it. (Mom, used to say that to me.)

   I have made in England Stanley #79. I bought it some 20 years ago from a mail order company. Remember when you got catalogs in the mail? I remember thinking this would be useful at some point.

   I took a picture with a machinist square against the sole of the plane. You can see the light between the depth stop. I could take a piece of brass and machine a new depth stop but I find that the skate at the bottom all ready limits the cut. It would just make the plane more stable.

   View Image

   I probably won't. There's that finishing what's on plate thing again.Len

   "You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox

4. 
   dkellernc | Aug 02, 2008 10:01pm | #19

   Well, if at some point you decide you need a (less frustrating) side rabbet, sounds like you're a perfect customer for the new Veritas (if you prefer the metal ones), or an antique pair (if you like the old ones).

   If you visit country antique stores with any regularity, you might be able to pick a serviceable pair for next to nothing.  Those these planes go for more at tool meets and auctions, often the antique shop owners don't know any better, and just lump everything into the category of "old tools".  I've actually heard of someone walking into a store like that and picking up a Francis Nicholson plane for $15.  He sold it for $5400.

   I agree with you on the full plate, by the way - I prefer to spend my time making things, not tuning tools.  And yeah, my Mom told my brother and I the same thing - and my Dad enforced it.... 

3. 
   douglas2cats | Aug 01, 2008 01:31am | #4

   Gotta agree with Samson & Derek on this one. If you're good, you wont need it at all, but stuff happens. Like discovering after all your dados are cut that despite your best efforts that all your shelf stock didn't end up exactly the same thickness and some wont fit in the dados without some work. And now that your shelf panels are glued up and wont fit through your planer, a side rabbet is a real plus for shaving the dado walls.If you build it he will come.