Replies

1. 
   chabber | Jan 22, 2008 11:06am | #1

   Hey Bruce -

   I also own the Veritas router table system with the right angle sled. One question - did you set the distance between the two pins to be the width (in this case 1/2") of your fingers? The reason I ask is that the bit may be pulling the wood one way or another causing it be off at the end. Setting the fingers to the exact width would help keep the wood in check instead of just holding one side of a finger against the pin.

   Good luck! I love the Veritas system as well.

   Josh

1. 
   user-231455 | Jan 22, 2008 01:01pm | #2

   Josh: Yes. I cut the first finger then adjusted the two pins to fit the 1/2 inch. The sled moves smoothly and straight without any side-play (I'll check it again to be sure). Maybe will contact tech support. It's puzzling because I seem to be doing all the right things and the poplar is dimensioned properly so the  they should come out even. Oh well, will have to keep trying.

   Thanks.

   Bruce 

1. 
   saschafer | Jan 22, 2008 05:33pm | #3

   You said you used calipers for the initial alignment, so use them again for diagnosing the problem: What do you get when you measure across one pin? Across two pins and the space between them? Across three pins and the two spaces between them? Obviously, you should be getting 0.500", 1.500" and 2.500", respectively. If that's what you get, then I think the only possibility is that you're stock isn't exactly 4" wide. If instead you get some accumulated error (e.g., 0.490", 1.480" and 2.470"), then that means that your initial adjustment was off (in this example case by 0.010"). It doesn't take much of a discrepancy to add up to quite a lot over 4".

   If the latter scenario is what you find (and I think it will be), you need to readjust the jig to ensure that the accumulated measurements are what they should be, not just the width of a single pin. After ensuring that the accumulated measurements are correct, if the fit is good, you're fine. If the fit is tight, it means that your bit is undersized. If the fits is loose, it means that your bit is oversized.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   user-231455 | Jan 26, 2008 04:15am | #4

   Steve: Sorry for the delayed response as I've been traveling. Thanks for the suggestion. Makes sense that the accumulated error as small as it might be for each finger would add up to what I'm seeing when I get to the other end. I'll check the pin/space size across the board.  Appreciate the response. Thanks.

   Bruce 

2. 
   forestgirl | Jan 26, 2008 09:39am | #5

   "IMO the Veritas steel table, fence and right angle sled system and accessories are "first rate". Easy router on and off and Triton above table bit change is very easy."  Dontcha just love it!  I've had the table for several years, and was finally able to afford the fence a couple years ago. 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
1. 
   user-231455 | Jan 26, 2008 02:19pm | #6

   Forestgirl: I built the stand for it from the manual and then purchased a stand from Rockler. They sell metal "modular shop stands" (very good quality/finish) at different leg heights and stretcher lengths which are pre-drilled to add door hinges, etc.  or to attach plywood to turn it into cabinet . I added a plywood top for the router table to sit on and basically built a box attached inside the metal  legs and added Rockler's locking casters. Decided to build 3 draws with 1/2" finger joints to try out the right angle sled. Will be nice to now have a dedicated mobile router station and to keep all my router stuff in one place! Yay!!!

   When finished, I'll try to post a picture (haven't done that yet but have seen previous instructions here in knots).

   I've learned so much from Knots from folks like you and others. Thanks.

   Bruce

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 26, 2008 07:47pm | #7

   "Will be nice to now have a dedicated mobile router station and to keep all my router stuff in one place! Yay!!!"  You betcha!  You're ahead of me in that respect.  I have a stand with a nice box for dust collection surrounding the router and some pegboard in the front.  Haven't taken the time to build something with drawers yet, but it's on the list!  Have fun!  I haven't used my box joint jig (usually do them on the table saw) but will follow this thread for tips.

    

   View Imageforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   user-231455 | Jan 27, 2008 04:07am | #8

   The stand I made is similar to the one they sell and is an open base. Like your's better. Maybe I'll enclose it and hook-up split collection using both the magnetic collector which I have that mounts on the table (works well) and hook up the collector that I think (just got it and haven't gotten to hook it up) mounts to the triton router below the table.

   As an aside, I believe that I saw a while ago a post about over-arm blade guards for the table saw. I bought a Jet 10" left tilt cabinet saw and the blade guard that comes with it is junk (seems to be a common problem with saws marketed/made for the US market. I recall that you have the Penn State version (saw a pix posted awhile back) and I also am aware of the excaliber version. I'm getting one but don't know which one or if there are other aftermarket ones. Am leaning toward the penn State. I have an extension table to the right of the saw and have everything on a mobile base.

   Your thoughts? 

   Bruce

1. 
   BriMcG | Jan 27, 2008 07:31am | #9

   Hi Bruce, I have the Veritas table with the fence and sled and love the dang thing. It amazes me how the sled is SO rock solid. Not a hint of movement. I haven't cut a box joint in quite a while but used the sled for some door panels recently, and it performed like a champ. Nothing like good engineering.

   I also got the wood stand but enclosed it with doors on both sides for easy access and added a 4" DC site in the back about half way down which is used in conjunction with the 2.5" magnetic collector on the table top behind the fence going to a second much smaller collector. Works great. I have the smaller collector on one of those plugs that you can plug in the tool (router) and an accessory (small vacuum) so the vac goes off when you shut off the router. Got it at Sears for about $15 I think, a few years ago. That, along with the Long Ranger III on the big DC and I never have to move a muscle ...practically!

   Hey Jamie! Did you ever get the sled?

   Brian

2. 
   user-231455 | Jan 27, 2008 02:00pm | #11

   Brian: The Veritas table is great! I plan to add the switch to turn on the DC when the router is turned on. From your comments and Jamie's, enclosing the base is the way to go. The magnetic one behind the fence just doesn't get enough of it so will add the 4" below once enclosed. Thanks.

   Bruce 

3. 
   forestgirl | Jan 27, 2008 09:22am | #10

   I use the PSI overhead "boom" to rout dust collection to my router, slipping the saw-hood hose off, and connecting the router hose:View Image 

   There are at least one or two other overhead guards, the Brett Guard being one that is quite well respected.  I like the PSI for it's easy of adjustment and installation.  Haven't any experience with others.  If you want to see a couple other pictures of the router table (door off, back, etc.) click here.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

4. 
   user-231455 | Jan 27, 2008 02:08pm | #12

   Jamie:Like your PSI set-up and the magnetic door attachment idea for the RT. Easy on/off. Saw your other post on WWA and adding 4" DC under the table is next along with Brian's suggestion about an auto switch to turn on the DC. Have one on my Delta 1 1/2 DC. What a joy!

   Bruce

5. 
   forestgirl | Jan 27, 2008 08:00pm | #13

   Which automatic switch did you get, Bruce?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

6. 
   user-231455 | Jan 28, 2008 03:16am | #15

   Haven't yet. Any suggestions?

7. 
   BriMcG | Jan 28, 2008 07:15am | #17

   Hi Jamie, I was telling him about my setup with the Long Ranger III on the jet DC and just the Tool/Accessory switch purchased from Sears a few years ago. You know, one of those devices you plug in the socket and then you plug in a tool (in this case the router) and an accessory (in this case a small DC). I use the small DC for behind the fence collection using the Veritas magnetic chute and of course the LR III for the Big DC.

   I really like the Sears device. The vac stays on for a few seconds after you turn off the router in order to clear the hose. Works great. I just checked and it's less then $20.00. Plus Sears is having a 10% off sale tonight!!!

   They also have a router table switch advertised next to the above mentioned one.

   http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=power+switch&gobutton.x=14&gobutton.y=13

   Later, Brian

    

8. 
   forestgirl | Jan 28, 2008 07:57am | #18

   Hi, Brian.  I can't tell by the web page how many amps that thing is designed for.  I doubt that it would be appropriate for a 1.5HP dust collector (mine) but I could be wrong.  Love the Long Ranger III though!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

9. 
   BriMcG | Jan 28, 2008 11:14am | #19

   It's handy for the smaller vacs but certainly not the 1100C. You staying dry up there? Pouring here. B

2. 
   royh | Jan 28, 2008 01:20am | #14

   FG:
   A couple questions, please:Did you take the plunge spring out of the big Freud? If so, is it a PITA?For connecting the Freud to the remote on/off mounted right-front, how'd you do that? The off-site pic shows the cord coiled in the bottom of the box.Lastly, did you make the tilting thingy to lift the top described by LV/Veritas on your cabinet?I sure do like my Veritas top, fence and sled!Thanks,RoyH

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 28, 2008 05:16am | #16

   Hi, Roy.  No, I haven't de-sprung it yet.  Am thinking if I get a RouterRaizer, I might though.  Or some day when I have to do a whole bunch of adjustments in one day, I'll probably get ticked off and take them out, LOL. 

   "For connecting the Freud to the remote on/off mounted right-front, how'd you do that?"  I just nipped off the corner of the door right behind the switch box, feed it through there.  Took the easy way out.

   "Lastly, did you make the tilting thingy to lift the top described by LV/Veritas on your cabinet?"  On the first support frame I made, yes, but I found I didn't really need it so this little stand does not have a prop-up bar.  I change bits above the table, and if I have to mess with the depth stop turret, I just kneel down to access.  If something drastic were needed (changing out the router, for instance) I'd just take the table out and put it somehwere upsidedown.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   royh | Jan 28, 2008 03:34pm | #20

   Thanks, Jamie. Like you, I haven't found the prop up bar to be much use either. I just flip the top to take out the router, and above the table bit changes are a snap. Time for me to close in the frame.
   Cheers-RoyH

3. 
   RonInOttawa | Jan 28, 2008 05:29pm | #21

   Jamie,I have the Veritas table and the big Freud hanging underneath. I picked up the WoodRat Plunge bar from the sale table at Lee Valley. It works like a charm!http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=52622&cat=1,43000,52709&ap=1Regards,Ron