Replies

1. 
   tom77 | Jan 16, 2009 01:20am | #1

   Drew,
   One way to deal with these issues is to apply solid wood edging to an mdf core before applying the veneer. I use edging that is 3/4" to 1" thick, depending on the design. I then veneer all the way to the edge. The assembly needs to be oversize, so that you can trim it to the desired final size after veneering. This approach can give you enough meat on the edge for a profile. The only issue is that you usually don't have any end grain showing on the edge, so the assembly won't look completely natural. (Only another woodworker will notice)

   Good luck, Tom.

2. 
   joinerswork | Jan 16, 2009 01:56am | #2

   Mr K,

   I've gotten 1/16" thick veneers from Certainlywood.  And laying a relatively thick veneer onto one side a solid wood substrate was frequently done on period pieces (which almost as frequently show signs of warpage, or splitting).  Nowadays the standard practice is to "balance" the show veneer with another veneer on the bottom of the panel.  Even safer is to sandwich a crossband ( yet another veneer whose grain is at right angles to the outside layer); so, from top to bottom, you have: show veneer, crossband veneer, lumber core, crossband veneer, bottom veneer.  This creates a very stable construction, so that any tendency toward movement of the solid core (thru moisture change) is restrained equally above and below.  The drawback to this practice is that it can be visually distracting-- the opposing-grained layers will almost certainly take stain and finish in a way that draws attention to their their presence. This may be minimised if the crossband veneer is near in color to the show veneer and the core material.  The veneer on the non-show side need not be the same expensive type as that of the show side, usually it is a straight grained piece of the same species as the top.

   The presence of the veneer can be camouflauged by applying a string inlay right at the corner, by applying a mold that covers the edges, or working a molding on the edges whose profile has a fillet or step at the upper surface, said fillet creates a shadow line in which the edge of the veneer(s) are hidden.  On the underside, another fillet, or a rounding-under of the corner can mask the presence of the balancing veneer(s). 

   Now, that said, if the panel (your chest top) is restrained in such a way that it can move seasonally, yet not be allowed to curl or bow, you may get by with simply veneering the top side. I've done this on door panels, for instance. In this case, the veneer need not be 1/16" thick, indeed, there is generally a feeling that doing what you are planning (unbalanced construction) is generally safer, the thinner the veneer, and the more nearly the grain direction of the veneer, and its species, matches that of the substrate.  A bookmatch of thick crotch veneers, at right angles to the grain of the top's panel, is probably the scenario most likely to cause warp or splitting, either of the top or the veneers themselves.

   Ray

3. 
   brad805 | Jan 16, 2009 08:48pm | #3

   Darryl Kiel (Vacupress) has a DVD showing this that I would recommend.  He even shows veneering some complex crowns.  I do not think I would use 1/16" thick, but maybe it will work in your design.  There was a discussion about this type of veneering for the Dash of a Jaguar, and one thing that came up was some wood species are preferred for this application.  I would not try a very straight grained wood, as I suspect it would be very likely to split.  You should join the Vacupress forum and post this Q there.  There are many very knowledgable helpful people there.

   Brad