Replies

1. 
   johnhardy | Jun 17, 2005 10:54pm | #1

   I'll begin by saying that I haven't tried to do what you want to do. But, it seems to me that it'd be better to do one of the following:

   1. Use an extremely sharp (read this as new) blade in a utility knife and make the cut carefully, without lots of pressure. Multiple passes will be required. I'd keep pressure against the straight edge with the knife so the blade didn't wander. After two or three passes, I think you'd have it.

   2. Sandwich the veneer between two pieces of plywood which are screwed together. The plywood is longer and wider than the veneer, so the screws go in all four sides, to keep the sandwich tight. Then use the bandsaw to rip the plywood where you want to cut the veneer. The cut should be perfect.

   John

2. 
   papanick | Jun 18, 2005 12:32am | #2

   You should be using a veneer saw. Ideally its sharp. Most veneer saws are not sharp from the factory. I refile mine and also file/stone the top of the teeth to bring them all to a sharp point. I wish I had a pic to post.....

   Anywas, your technique sounds right, just a few strokes with the saw, don't try to cut in one pass. Cut through the veneer into the board underneath.

   If that isn't working, you could try taping the joint first (veneer tape or painters tape).

   Best of luck.

   The older I get, the better I was....

3. 
   joinerswork | Jun 18, 2005 02:25am | #3

   sp,

   You might try lighter pressure/more passes with your knife.  Lay the veneer on a piece of sacrificial softwood, to support the backside.

   If you have a jointer, it's pretty easy to sandwich the veneer between two pieces of 3/4" pine or something similar, then pass the whole thing edgewise across the jointer.  Can make glue joints between two pcs of veneer this way too.

   Regards,

   Ray

4. 
   rubydog | Jun 18, 2005 05:05am | #4

   Build a veneer book. Get 2 pieces of mdf (mine are 24x72) and hinge them together separated by a scrap of veneer. I used piano hinges. Flush cut the front edge so that they are even with each other. Use a knife to get the veneer close and place it in the book so that the last 1/16" or 1/8" of scrap protrudes. You don't need to clamp the book shut, the weight of the mdf will hold it fast. Trim it to perfection with a flush cutter being sure to climb cut (in this case right to left). Move slowly and confidently. Knock off the fuzzies with a piece of sandpaper. Ahh, clean cuts...

   Hope this helps, Steve

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 18, 2005 09:33pm | #9

   I do not use veneer every day but sometimes...

   I have something sort of like Stengelsen described.. However I have it made as a guide for my router with a small spiral bit..

   However, I do cut along the (clamped) guide (top and bottom) with a X-ACTO? knife with a new blade.. Just a light cut.. If you force it it will try to follow the grain..

   The light cut just helps to eliminate chipping the edge...

5. 
   DaveBarker | Jun 18, 2005 07:06am | #5

   Move the veneer saw lightly over the wood - too much pressure and you'll split the wood rather than cut it. Trying to get a smooth cut with the grain using a knife is pretty difficult.

   Also, make a shooting board for smoothing the edge after cutting. You can "shoot" the edge with either a plane and/or sanding block. This will get your edges smooth, square and straight.

1. 
   macalex | Jun 18, 2005 12:18pm | #6

   Tecnique depends on the length of the cut.

   This afternoon I put together a 9-piece patchwork-like veneer lid panel using just a straight edge, new craft knife blade, and my block plane. If I don't get a perfect edge from the knife, I hang the piece of veneer over the side of a softwood board and trim it with my sharp block plane - finger pressure is enough to hold the piece down.

   The sequence of joints is important.

   With small pieces, that's OK. With longer pieces I sometimes use a sandwich and shoot a straight joint. Don't forget that within fairly close limits, you can use your assembly tape to pull a joint up snug.

   Malcolm  New Zealand  |  New Thinking0.06% of the world's people are Kiwis

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jun 18, 2005 02:34pm | #7

   dave,

   one other thing that hasn't been mentioned is to cut from the back of the veneer.

   Tear out if the knife is causing it will not be visible.

   Also use a sharp knife and multiple cuts as mentioned previously.

   Cheers,

   eddie

6. 
   KeithNewton | Jun 18, 2005 05:56pm | #8

   Some of the hard brittle veneers can be a bitch to cut, and the standard methods may leave a little to be desired. I have had some like fiddleback makore and bees-wing andiroba, where the little curl grain run-out required extra measures. I have lightly coated the surface of the veneer with epoxy to fortify the veneer. I usually use epoxy for my glue-up also, so there are not any compatibility issues.

   Otherwise, I cut most of my glue-line with the table-saw sled. My longest one is 8" long, and I have the veneers captive between MDF or PB with a lot of weight on top. With this method, I usually cut a stack of veneer about 1/2" thick all at once. Even though this may be essentially a rip cut, I like a fine ATB low hook blade.

   I have even used this method to cut tapered wedges for pie cut tops, and gotten perfect little sharp points every time.