Replies

1. 
   JohnH | Jan 06, 2006 11:31pm | #1

   It's called faux finishing or faux painting and was popular about the turn of the last century (1900). You might get better results from a Google search or your local library than in FWW.

1. 
   Tugger | Jan 07, 2006 03:13am | #3

   John,

   I realize that Faux Bois is the technique, however, I thought I had read an article in FWW regarding the use of this technique.  Perhaps I am wrong as I have only reviewed the last 5 years. Thanks for the suggestion.

   Tug

1. 
   Gretchen | Jan 07, 2006 04:02pm | #5

   Take a look here. You will probably want to get a graining tool at a craft store.

   http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/dc_faux_graining_combing/0,1792,HGTV_3400,00.htmlGretchen

1. 
   Tugger | Jan 08, 2006 07:53pm | #6

   Gretchen,

   Thank you. I did review this site.

   tug

2. 
   tangomike | Jan 09, 2006 06:07am | #7

   Keep looking through the FWW index, I do recall an article on this finishing technique. Not much in the way of actual help, but I can offer moral support :)

1. 
   Tugger | Jan 09, 2006 06:52pm | #8

   Tangomike,

   Thanks for the support! I am still looking. Like you, I am sure I read about this technique somewhere in FWW.

   Thanks for your response.

   tug

    

2. 
   beachfarm | Jan 07, 2006 02:03am | #2

   Paint finishes (graining, glazes, toners, etc.) are my stock and trade. What do you want to know?

1. 
   Tugger | Jan 07, 2006 03:28am | #4

   I have a project which involves CNC machined MDF raised panel walls (interior) in which the customer has now requested a simulated wood (cherry) appearance to the finished walls. Not having experience with Faux Bois technique I am looking for information on the technique, supplies, tools, etc.. Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated.

   tug

3. 
   beachfarm | Jan 09, 2006 08:46pm | #9

   Where are you with the project? Are the panels installed, still in the shop, or still on the drawing board?

   Ideally, you haven't installed the panel wall yet and are free to apply the ground (base coat), first layer of glaze and perhaps the primary graining in your shop to the numbered, unassembled parts. Fully constructed frame and panel walls can be (usually are) a nightmare to grain. Especially MDF. The machined edges take paint in ways the smooth surfaces do not. The machined edges demand primer coats - usually two - and careful sanding to remove the MDF "fuzz".

   My most recent project, delivered Saturday: 8 raised panel sections to comprise one full interior wall of an office. They were MDF panels in poplar frames, all with a painted/glaze finish. My process: Two coats of alkyd primer on the MDF panels - sanding after each coat. One coat alkyd primer on all frame parts, baseboard, crown and chair rail. One coat paint on all parts - I use Old Village (linseed oil) paints. Build the sections. First coat of glaze on each section. Installation. Second coat of glaze applied to entire wall. Finish coat on entire wall. The finish coat was Briwax thinned out to a soup.

   If I were asked to grain that job, I would have grained the "parts" after the first coat of paint.

   So... about the graining:

   Cherry, unlike curly maple or crotch mahogany, has no distinct figure. What it does have, generally speaking, is a luminous quality. You can suggest that luminosity, and the typical colors of cherry, with paints and toners. I would approach your job this way:
   • Primers (as mentioned above).
   • Lay down a uniform first coat of oil base (paint), let it dry, then sand it smooth (removing brush marks). My choice for the first coat of paint would be the nut brown/amber found in older (oxidized) cherry.
   • Spray a wash coat of shellac. Let it dry, then hit with a soft (used) piece of 220 or even 320. The shellac acts as a barrier between your coats of oil paint. If, in the second coat of oil, you make a mistake, that wash coat of shellac will allow you to wipe off the second coat of oil paint.
   • Brush on a second coat of oil paint. My choice for the second coat of paint would be the reddish brown found in older cherry. This second coat is where you'll add the running grain of cherry. Pull the brush through the fresh second coat and reveal enough of the first coat to capture the light/dark color variations of cherry. It helps if your second coat has been thinned with spirits. Your looking for the consistency of a glaze. The thinned second coat of paint will "spread" as it dries and that gives you the blurred, mottled running grain of cherry.
   • Once FULLY dry, spray another wash coat of shellac.
   • At this point, you can choose one, or both, of the following:

   1.) Add the typical cathedrals found in cherry. I would only add them to the panels. You'll need a third paint which can be the same paint used in the second coat but lightened, or darkened, just a little (yellow ochre to lighten, burnt umber to darken). There are some commercially available tools for this type of graining - such as combs and brushes - but a cheap 4" to 6" china bristle brush works best. I cut away large sections of the bristles leaving a "gap tooth smile" of irregular spacing. It's a simple thing. Take a look at some pronounced cherry cathedrals... hold your brush next to them... start cutting. Make two or three different brushes this way. When you're ready, dip the bush into the thinned third paint and lightly "pull" you cathedrals over the panel - an upside down V motion. Practice on some painted/shellaced scrap. If it looks wrong, wipe it off and try again. Keep trying till you get it right. Graining is 99.9% practice and .01% tools.

   2.) Skip the cathedrals. Assemble you frames and panels, then simply glaze them when they're ready.

   It helps, of course, to know what is the client looking for? Realism or "folky" graining? If this is your first graining project, guide the client towards a simpler paint/toner effect. One that will capture the color and luminous qualities of cherry. Tell them for realistic grain patterns you will have to double the cost of their job - because, with what they are asking for, they have basically doubled your work load.

   I hope this is helpful - in some way. If you questions or concerns, feel free to ask. (I'll give you my eMail address if you get yourself in a jam...)

   Regards,

   Craig

1. 
   Tugger | Jan 10, 2006 02:11am | #10

   Craig,

   Thank you for the detailed response. I greatly appreciate your time and effort to provide and share your knowledge base on this technique.

   Fortunatly, I am under no time pressure to accomplish this task. Perhaps I should have been more specific in describing the "panels". They are actually 4X8X3/4 or 4X9X3/4 CNC machined MDF which allow face attachment and are joined together with their own attachment system. Appropriate molding and trim covers joints and attachment points. This makes for a beautiful finished wall in no time. No parts to number. However, it does mean that a 4X8 etc. section must be grained as a whole. Panels have been sanded and primed. While walls which were to receive normal paint application have been installed, this room of wall panels are in  the shop.

   If I get into a jam I would appreciate knowing how to contact you directly. If you can suggect how we might do that it would be greatly appreciated.

   Again, Thank you for your thoughtfull response to my questions.

   tug

1. 
   beachfarm | Jan 10, 2006 02:25am | #11

   Tug,You can reach me at: [email protected]Feel free to ask questions. I have some project pic's that, while not Cherry, might still be helpful with the "step-by-step".Regards,Craig