Replies

1. 
   DougF | Dec 14, 2004 06:13pm | #1

   Peter,

   The Oil/Poly provides a fine satin finish without adding the oil/wax as the final coat.  I've tried it both ways I found that I preferred the overall effect of the oil/poly and a high quality paste wax tinted to compliment the wood.   Personally, I think the wax is important to help protect the finish since the pil/poly is not as durable as a varnish, shellac or lacquer top coat. 

   Doug

1. 
   Lyptus | Dec 14, 2004 07:13pm | #2

   Thanks for your reply.  Could you describe the difference in overall effect a little more between the oil/wax mix vs. applying a tinted paste wax?  What brand of paste wax do you use?

    

1. 
   DougF | Dec 14, 2004 07:47pm | #3

   Peter,

   Each successive coat of a satin finish will reduce the clarity and sharpness of the wood features.  I use Liberon wax that is pre-tinted for the particualr wood finish or I use clear.  You probably would not use a tutor oak wax on natural cherry panels and maple rails and stiles.  You may, for instance, want to emphasize the cherry panels with a cherry-tinted wax and the maple with a clear wax.  Or, use clear on on the entire surface if you like the appearance of the final top coat as is.  

   As with all finishing, experiment on test pieces before you commit to what can be irreversable.

   Doug

    

1. 
   Lyptus | Dec 14, 2004 09:14pm | #4

   Thanks for your patience.  I am dying the lyptus with a reddish brown dye- so I would probably use the medium mahogany tinted wax if I want to further tone the wood.  I've also seen clear and natural Liberon waxes sold at Rockler.  Do you know the difference between the clear and natural? and would it be better to just adjust the dyes to get the color I'm looking for or to undershoot the color with the dye and adjust with multiple coats of a tinted wax?

   - Peter

1. 
   DougF | Dec 15, 2004 05:45pm | #5

   Peter,

   Clear is clear and natural is close to the natural coloring of most light-colored woods such as maple, white pine, birch and the like.  It will have a slight yellow/amber cast.  It is always better to finish the wood exactly the way you want.  The wax provides protection, it can also add luster and tone. 

   That is the beauty of experimenting before committing.  Invest a few extra dollars for different finishes and waxes and see what strikes you as the most complimentary to the wood, the intended use and the overall appearance of the piece.  When starting a project I always save scrap representing each major structural component (sometimes veneered drawer fronts will finish differently than their solid wood counterparts); wood type when you mixing woods as in frame and panels; and placement -horizontal tops pieces subjected to heavy use or moisture may have a higher gloss than the vertical sides and front.  The scraps - planed, scraped or sanded just like your finished project - provide you the opportunity to try different approaches without risking the final product.  When you consider the amount of time and effort you have devoted to designing, planning and building the piece, it only makes sense to take an equal amount of time to plan the finish since this is the step that  allows the wood to come alive/   

   For routine maintenance however, waxes tinted to the wood color can't be beat to help hide small scratches and other imperfections cause by normal wear and tear. 

   I hope you post you're piece when it is finished. 

   My hopes that you and family have a safe and joyous holiday season.

   Doug