I applied 4 coats of tung oil (the stuff thinned with mineral spirits, not 100% pure) to a small cherry table top, allowing 24 hrs in between each coat. After a couple days I applied 3 coats of regular clear paste wax, buffing in between. The finish isn’t very good, has swirl marks and other imperfections. I think my error was that I didn’t wait long enough for the tung oil to cure.
Q1:Is that right?
Q2: I would like to remove the wax and apply a different finish, can I use mineral spirits or pint thinner to remove the wax, while not harming the tung oil? Or is there a sounder approach?
A million thanks for your help!
Fine Woodworking Recommended Products
Blackwing Pencils
If you've listened to Shop Talk Live, you've heard them talk more about these pencils than you could possibly imagine.
Drafting Tools
Add a hole guide to this kit, and you'll have the tools you need to work out your designs with scale drawings.
Craftsman Random Orbit Sander
While this sander is among the least expensive models in the test, its performance ranks among the best. The stock removal was excellent, and dust collection was solid when used with a vacuum. It handles really smoothly, too, and has a tall body that fit my hand nicely whether I was holding it from above or around the waist.
DeWalt 735X Planer
The DeWalt 735X produced two faces perfectly parallel to one another, with surfaces far superior to what the other machines produced, thanks to its two feed speeds. At high speed, the planer works fast and leaves a smooth surface. But the slower, finish speed produces an almost glass-smooth surface. Knife changes are easy, with spacious access to the cutterhead from the top and a gib screw wrench that doubles as a magnetic lift to remove the knives. The 735X also has great dust collection, thanks to an internal blower that helps evacuate chips. The port has a 2-1/2-in.-dia. opening, but has a built-in adapter for 4-in.-dia. hoses. My only complaint is the location of the dust port. It’s on the outfeed side of the machine, and exits straight back. If you don’t pull the hose to the side, it interferes with material as it leaves the machine. The top is large and flat, so it’s a great place to set material in between passes through the machine.
JessEm Wood Sabre
The beam has deep detents that index the fence precisely at 1/2-in. increments, and there’s a well-machined and easy-to-read micrometer adjustment that will set the gauge to any distance between the indexed points. However, the detents are so positive that they sometimes interfere, drawing the fence toward them.
Replies
I think is is quite possible that the tung oil has not fully cured. Not 100% sure but, I think, mineral spirits (paint thinner) will remove the wax. Depending on its state of cure, it may also remove some tung oil.
I think that I would remove the wax and let the table set for a week or two. Then give it a light sanding and apply a more durable film finish. Starting with a coat of de-waxed shellac might be advisable to assure good bonding with the cured tung oil.
Hi,
Scraping's the best way to remove wax. Using solvents will drive the wax into the wood, oil or not. Sanding creates heat that also pushes the wax into the finish.
Suggestions for a finish; wet sand with penetrating oil. Tung oil qualifies. Start with 800 wet/dry paper to remove dirt, 1000 to finish. It'll give you a great look.
If shine's what you're after, once the oil dries, wet sand with either mineral spirits or water & dish detergent. I prefer soapy water, less chance of contamination. Mineral spirits might make the finish cloudy if there's wax residue on the wood.
Last, go to the "library" section on Highland Woodworking's site. There are good articles on wax and other finishes, printed by my favorite furniture re-finisher, Alan Noel. Oh, the tung oil is in the wood, not on it so there's nothing you can do about it
Good luck,
Mikaol
Thanks!
Thanks for the tips and reference.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled