Replies

1. 
   Patto | Sep 23, 2004 01:46am | #1

   Turn it around so that the wheels run "backwards" and fit a rubber or leather wheel and a mop on the other. You will be able to use this for polishing carving tools and paring chisels using the tool rest rather than approaching from the top. Much more repeatable angle and safer.

2. 
   Steinmetz | Sep 23, 2004 02:23am | #2

   FG, however you use your grinder, make certain the wheels turn downward when you are facing the polishing buffs

    Home Depot has a section where they display cotton buffs also in seperate tubes they display buffing compounds Jewelers rouge  Red) (For highly polished gold silver and Yes brass.)

   Emery black)(for steel)  . Tripoly (brown ) for brass  and (White ) rouge for aluminum and stainless steel

   You can get cotton buffs for each end of your machines                                                  ,so you won't have to switch buffs as they are best used                                as dedicated buffs                                                                                                          Jewelers rouge is the finest ,so only use it's wheel with rouge. Tripoly ditto Emery ditto

   For starters get Rouge Tripoly and Emory and use eye and face protection

   Also some kind of hood attached to a vacuum cleaner.( It's messy.)

   the cotton wheels are sewn together with many layers of cloth and the best are spirialy sewn so they keep their shapes Un fortunately, Iwas never sewn that way

   Stein.    Check http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffing.html

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/22/2004 7:38 pm ET by steinmetz

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 23, 2004 03:29am | #3

   Hey, Stein, thanks for the link!  Can I put (safely) a sanding mop on one of them?  That would be cool for when I'm finishing up scroll-saw pieces.  Guess I better check the RPM limit on the mops.

   OK, dude, we gotta get your text weirdness fixed here.  Looks like maybe you're either composing in a different program and pasting in here --or--  you're hitting the enter key a various places along the way.  Anything I can help with??  LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Steinmetz | Sep 23, 2004 05:45am | #4

   FG, I think for sanding your scrollsaw work, you might use a small diameter flapwheel

   Your motor speed is probably 1725 rpm at most it would be 3550

   Neither speed will be excessive . (Routers usually hit 20,000 and more.)

   Yes Jamie, my typing of late is screwed up

    Everything comes out double spaced and although the text fits the Knots available space, when I type it, It spreads out beyond the page when it appears on the forum after I post it( LIKE THIS)

   I, been forced to cutting the text to short snips(LIKE THIS)                                            and continuing mid sentence (LIKE THIS)

   At first, I blamed Prospero for this aberration but, now,                                                 I suspect I've forgotten how to format my text.                                                             If you can help me Jamie, I'll be forever in your debt.                                                    

   Stein.

   Edited 9/22/2004 10:51 pm ET by steinmetz

1. 
   BarryR | Sep 23, 2004 07:04am | #5

   Your example of text spreading out looked perfect to me.  Your second paragraph, where you manually put in spaces is all screwed up. 

2. 
   forestgirl | Sep 23, 2004 07:20pm | #6

   OK, the key is where you said "It spreads out beyond the page when it appears on the forum after I post it."  That is weird!  The only time I've seen this happen is when someone posts either a very long URL or a photo image that is wider than the normal frame.

   You say you're thinking you forgot how to format your text, but in this system there really is no formatting when you're just typing along like I am in this paragraph.  The only "formatting" I've done so far was to bold and italicize the word weird above.

   I'm not seeing anything that accounts for the problem.  Lemme think about it for awhile, and I'll also see if I can get ahold of Mark.  In the meantime, you could type your messages as you did in the first 3 sentences above, putting in manual "carriage returns" but use Shift+Enter  when you want a single space rather than double space between paragraphs.  It will end up looking like this:

   FG, I think for sanding your scrollsaw work, you might use a small diameter flapwheelYour motor speed is probably 1725 rpm at most it would be 3550Neither speed will be excessive . (Routers usually hit 20,000 and more.)

   Are you using a Windows-based system?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Steinmetz | Sep 23, 2004 08:03pm | #7

   Forest Gurl and Mangler, thanx for the advice I,m typing this post to illustrate my problem. This is my usual method of typing. I'm purposely typing all the way toward  the right margin.   Looks good so far, but I suspect when it continues to you guys, it will wander past the margin and may require the recipients (That's you) to scroll the right page material back to the page. Steinmetz

   Note: I'm editing now.  I don't know what I did to get that 'Jumble' on previous postings, but somehow it or someone has fixed the problem  

   I'll edit one more time (THIS IS A DOUBLE BLIND TEST) just in case I was only lucky. Stein.Back once again: No prob! Thanx guys. Ed.  I use windows. FG, do you do windows?

   Edited 9/23/2004 1:13 pm ET by steinmetz

   Edited 9/23/2004 1:15 pm ET by steinmetz

   Edited 9/23/2004 1:22 pm ET by steinmetz

2. 
   forestgirl | Sep 24, 2004 02:24am | #8

   Ed, hardly ever do windows anymore, ROFL!  Too old!  Glad to see your formatting has miraculously recovered!  (Yes, I do use Windows, XP to be precise).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   IanDG | Sep 25, 2004 01:49am | #11

   At the risk of re-igniting the embers of an old flaming contest here, I use toothpaste as a polishing medium for turnings in corian. It makes an acceptable and cheaper alternative to some of the specialist buffing compounds.

   IanDG

3. 
   Elcoholic | Sep 24, 2004 10:50pm | #9

   The one's without guards are real good for removing excess skin from th knuckles :)

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   The more things change ...

   We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized.  I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.

   Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 25, 2004 12:50am | #10

   Welllllll, if I'm gonna give up skin and tissue, I can think of some other areas I'd prefer to trim.  ROFL!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   MichaelPB | Sep 25, 2004 03:05am | #12

   Forrestgirl,

   I almost mentioned using the sanding mops.  I started a thread about them a while back and you responded with something.

   Anyway, I have been using them and love them!  Best one is a 220 wheel that is worn out.  Gives a soft sheen to wood after just a coat or two of finish and since it is worn out, it won't burn through and leaves no scratches.

1. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 25, 2004 05:08pm | #13

   I came across a couple of cheap, old grinders eons ago. At the time I was doing a lot of renovation work, so I fitted a fine wire wheel on one spindle and a buffing wheel on the other. This rig worked very well for cleaning up painted (or unpainted) door and cabinet hardware.

   The buffing wheel (with various compounds) will remove the wire marks and bring the shine to whatever level you prefer (on brass).

   BTW, I wear a full face mask when using the wire wheel, since the individual wires regularly come out, and can fly directly to your face.

   I also found a drum sander that could be fitted to a grinder spindle, which works okay if you have a curve which can be faired free hand. Otherwise, I use a drum attached to the drill press, since I don't have an oxcillating spindle sander.

   As far as the flap sanders are concerned, I would think you are correct to check the rpm max for these things before using them on a grinder spindle. I could see where such a set up could be useful, so I am going to check this out for myself. Never thought of it before.

   Edited 9/25/2004 10:11 am ET by nikkiwood

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 25, 2004 07:07pm | #14

   Thanks, nikki, great suggestion!  We have plenty of old hardware and rusty stuff laying around to practice on, LOL.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   Steinmetz | Sep 26, 2004 01:48am | #15

   FG, If you use wire wheels, to de rust metal items, here's a trick I,ve been using for years;

    After a few hours of use, the wire bristles get dull and it takes much longer to do the work of a new wheel. I take an old piece of a medium grit grinding wheel (Or, broken sharpening /honing stone)

    Hold the stone to the rotating dull wheel and while pressing, work it left to right and back again . This will sharpen the bristles,and dress the shape of the wheel HOWEVER, to use the new wheel, you must remove the wire wheel and reverse it and reinstall on the arbor.

   Think of all those dull wire wheels that are tossed out for want of this trick?

   Another helpful trick is for holding small parts to the wire wheel.                                   The tool is called a 'Ring clamp' (Sold in jewelers supply stores) 

    Looks like a fat wooden clothes pin pivoted at the center with two ends each of  which have two leather covered jaws. 

    The tool comes with a wooden wedge, which when pressed into the unused end,tightens the other end holding the screw/bolt or gizmo, thereby protecting dainty fingers and insuring no useful parts are lost.

   In a pinch you can polish up your old class ring with a cotton buff and jeweler's rouge.

    Stein.     LINK FOR RING CLAMP    http://www.abm-corp.com/abm_r1.asp

   (Wedge R7)

   Edited 9/25/2004 6:52 pm ET by steinmetz

   Edited 9/25/2004 7:23 pm ET by steinmetz

   Edited 9/25/2004 7:24 pm ET by steinmetz